Back on site, pre-cast concrete cellar stairs, fabricated in Williston, Vermont, are lowered with a boom and bolted up against the house foundation. The stairs, which weigh a good ton, are bolted on with 4 3/4" bolts and waterproofed with a neoprene seal. When finished they will have a metal bulkhead door on top and a door into the basement below.

Bob meets with Greg VanGrover of Ketcham Reflections to observe the finishing touches in the bathroom shower. VanGrover works with architectural drawings to custom fit the shower doors and glass walls. In older homes his factory-trained installers make a site visit prior to fabrication to insure the space is plumb and level. If its not his team will make the piece to fit whole so once its made the installer is not trying to fit a square peg into a round hole. Downstairs Bob meets with Barry Driscoll, the electrician to discuss the importance of Carbon Monoxide detectors. In the basement Bob shows off his mini Wine Cellar with a Marvel Cellarette. Also in the basement is a Wood Waiter from Bruce Fowler Industries of Quebec, Canada. This nifty device saves your back from having to haul wood from the basement to the main floor. This wood elevator transports wood from a basement storage area to a cabinet near the fireplace.

A steel bulkhead door can be a great addition to a home. To install, a steel frame is lowered onto the pre cast cellar stairs. Next, pilot holes are drill into the concrete and the steel frame is bolted down. The door and latching hardware are attached, providing secure and weather tight basement access.

The new family room is all done and furnished and looks terrrific. Bob talks with Sarah Monzon, the homeowner who also acted as the general contractor on the project, about the remodeling work done on the room. The room was a "cave" according to Monzon before the project was started. A pitted soapstone sink was previously used as a laundry and had become an eyesore. The room was also cluttered with accumulated junk. Because of the shortage of space in the house, the family decided to finish the basement to add to the living space of the home. Monzon acted as the general contractor for the project because there wasn't money budgeted for the expense, which was not necessarily an experience she would choose to repeat. The local inspectional services department provided a large amount of information for the novice general contractor. It is imperative before homeowners do any work on their home that they obtain the necessary permits and find out what is safe and what is not. If homeowners do work on their homes without a permit and anything goes wrong, insurance will not cover the damage. Before any work was done on the house, the basement floors were concrete and heating ducts crisscrossed the ceiling. There was flooding damage in the basement during the past fall which needed to be corrected and prevented in the future. Basement Systems was called in to install a perimeter drain and drainage system. A lot of existing plumbing was then moved from the ceiling to make more headspace and a new HVAC system was installed to move the heating ducts. The new central air system complete with an air filter made the house much more livable. In one of the smaller spaces in the basement, a new bathroom was installed with the help of technology from Saniflo. Owens Corning Basement Finishing Systems was then called in to install new finished walls. Many of the mechanical devices in the basement are now hidden behind the walls but are still accessible as the walls can be easily removed. A new entertainment center was then installed in the finished basement featuring a S1 Digital Media Center. The media center allows the homeowner to browse digital pictures taken using the family's digital camera or to set the image as wallpaper for the screen. Television shows can be watched or recorded using a schedule guide. The media center also can store home videos, movies, and music. New reclining chairs from Bell'O were put in the entertainment room. When laying protection from flood damage in a basement, it is important to elevate wood from the concrete floor. Instead of using a plywood underlayment, a plastic tile system was used which interlocks and can be screwed down onto the concrete. Plastic webbing underneath the tiles diverts any water which may come up through the concrete or spill in the basement to the perimeter drain. Slide-Lok cabinets were put in the basement to increase storage space. The Slide-Lok wall system was put in place to hang tools in the workspace. The husband of the family is a musician and uses much of the storage space to hold his instruments. Because the room can double as rehearsal space, two and a half inches of fiberglass are in the walls to reduce sound transmission to the outside. The basement has a small office space for the husband as well. Accents throughout the space correlate with other things in the room. The lampshades on the desk have a design which relates to the flooring product. The floor does not have a wall-to-wall carpet although it looks as if it does. The floor is from Binvetec and features tiles of carpet which stick to the floor. The product has interlocking patterns which can easily be layed down. Bean bags from Sumo were put in the room for lounging in and the kids love to play on them. A stairwell fishtank from AquaVista is only four inches deep.

Bob is at the Mashpee home site for the installation of the pre-cast basement entry system from Bilco. He looks at a finished system and remarks on the light, sturdy doors that are molded of high-density poyethylene, ribbed for strength, yet light weight and low maintenance. He then visits an installation in progress to see how the pre-cast concrete stairs are drilled to accept the threaded steel rods that will join the stairs to the foundation. The faces of the stair system that will receive the butyl resin and bond with the foundation are first primed with a catalyst to help the butyl resin adhere. The resin is laid on in strips that will flatten, spread, and compress as the stairs are lowered into place and pressed against the foundation to form a water-tight seal. The stairs are made of 5,000 PSI (pounds per square inch)concrete that is so dense it doesn't need waterproofing treatment like the foundation. The door leaves are installed last, with pre-molded cutouts for the hardware. These light, ribbed doors are actually as strong as steel, but never need to be scraped, primed, or painted. They are sold as a premium product, at a higher price than traditional steel doors, because they are built to be secure and maintenance-free. These doors shed water by design, and direct it away from the house and the door opening.

Ryley builds out a rec room floor in the Plymouth house. Ryley explains how to keep the room from being damp. Ryley puts down 4 mil plastic then 2 by 4 pressure treated sleepers, to create a sub-floor base. Between the sleepers is rigid insulation then finally plywood is installed on top.

Bob's back at the Mashpee site where he meets with developer Joe Valle to discuss the foundation that is being poured. Valle explains that the excavation work for an average foundation costs about $5,000 and includes the digging, backfill, and finish grading. The poured foundation also costs about $5,000, divided equally between the cost of labor and the cost of materials. Valle estimates it will take about 30 yards of concrete to pour the average foundation, which is equal to three truckloads. Bob questions the decision to pour a full foundation and wonders if it might not be more economical to build a crawlspace. Valle explains that the advantages of a full basement far outweigh any cost savings from digging and pouring a shallower foundation. The added living space is well worth the cost, especially since the foundation must be dug and poured regardless of the depth. As for a concrete slab, Valle says that the market does not support it in the Massachusetts area. Even with a slab house, a frost wall must be dug and poured, before the concrete arrives for the slab. Once the foundation is poured for this River Hill home, posts are set every 16 inches so that the sill can be bolted to the foundation and the house can be tied down to its base.

One of the key aspects of refinishing a basement is making sure it's dry and warm. Bob talks with Larry Janesky of Basement Systems about the steps taken to keep the Melrose basement dry. An interlocking plastic underlayment works as a subfloor for the basement floor. It's very important not to have organic material on the floor as it will be susceptible to mold from water vapor. Before the underlayment was put in place however, a perimeter drain was dug into the basement floor. The perimeter drain sends the water to a sump pump system. The system installed is called a Triple Safe System as it has three pumps inside; an AC pump, an AC backup, and a DC battery backup pump. Using this system, the basement should stay flood-proof. There is some standing water where the sump pump is being installed but this should not be a problem since the system has an air-tight lid on it so water cannot evaporate back into the home. A charger box for the sump pump alerts the homeowner when the pump is running on battery backup. Ice guard fittings have been placed over the pipes that carry the water to the exterior of the home so that water will drain even when water in the pipes is frozen. In an older home like this one, the foundation may be a little weaker and more porous than homes built today. To prevent rain water from seeping in through the foundation, a vapor barrier was installed. A product called Clean Space was also installed over the walls to direct water buildup from condensed water vapor into the perimeter drain. A flood ring was installed around the water heater, which will drain water into the perimeter drain. Dehumidifiers in basements should be basement rated. Normal dehumidifiers are designed to take water out of warmer air and might not be adequate for dehumidifying basements. A SaniDry Basement Air System was installed in the basement of the Melrose home. It can process 100 pints per day and has air filtration built into it. The system is Energy Star rated and will perform well in basement environments.

Bob talks with Larry Janesky of Basement Systems Inc., about the equipment being put in place to prevent moisture damage. An underlayment is being put on the floor to prevent water transfer. The underlayment is a plastic intelocking subfloor made specifically for basements. Organic material, like wood, should not come into contact with the concrete subfloor because water vapor rises up through the concrete and can create problems with mold. Traditionally, people remodel basements by putting visqueen down on the concrete, laying down pressure-treated 2x4's, insulating in between the boards, and then laying down a plywood subfloor. The ThermalDry inorganic underlayment is a better solution as it has tracks to allow some air circulation. With a traditional subfloor, water vapor condenses into water underneath the visqueen then transfers to the wood and organic materials in the subfloor, causing mold and rot. Plumbing leaks can also result in a wet subfloor, causing the plywood to buckle and mold to grow. ThermalDry underlayment is quick to install, which saves time and money. The panels lock together with teeth and a shiplap design to stop the water vapor. The tiles allow for a little expansion and contraction and take up only a half-inch of the basement's ceiling height. This underlayment system costs about the same amount as the traditional method but, unlike traditional subfloors, does not require replacement after a water episode. If there is a water problem, the tiles can be lifted up, dried, and put back in place once the water issue is addressed. On a flat floor, the tiles will lay flat and the perimeter tiles will be secured to the floor. The completed floor will be made up of three layers: the underlayment, the pad, and the carpet. These multiple layers will minimize any sound from the rigid plastic coming into contact with the concrete slab. The Melrose home has a wavy basement floor, so extra fasteners will be put in to hold the underlayment down. A dehumidification system will be put in the basement to draw water out of the air before it becomes a problem. It's important to use a dehumidifier designed specifically for basements as most dehumidifiers are rated for 80 degree temperatures and basements typically are much cooler than this. In this project, the dehumidifier installed was a SaniDry Basement Air System which has air filtration built in and is Energy Star rated.

Larry Janesky of Basement Systems reviews the work being done to cut a drainage trench in the concrete around the perimeter of the basement floor. Water will be channelled through the trench to a sump, where it can be pumped out of the home. The sump hole was dug at the lowest spot in the basement as determined by laser level. CleanSpace is being installed over the walls as a vapor barrier to drain water from the walls to the drainage system. It is possible to install CleanSpace in crawlspaces as well as in basements to prevent water buildup in underground walls and eliminate rot and mildew. Janesky recommends taking these two steps in securing the drainage of a home and to secure against all outside air leaks. The final step is to dehumidify the crawlspace. Janesky points out a corner of the basement where the Thermal Dry Wall System has been installed. This product goes behind finished walls and drains water like CleanSpace but also reflects heat generated in the basement back into the basement. Janesky then shows a portion of the floor where the Water Guard Drainage System has been installed in the drainage trench and secured with cement.