Before you hang that nice big bathroom mirror, be sure you keep these things in mind. You'll need to support the bottom edge by screwing in a length of j-channel. To protect the mirror's silver backing, cover the screw heads with duct tape and be sure to use specially-designed mirror mastic, since other adhesives can eat away the back and leave spots.

Rob Shedrofsky from Davinci Stone explains the tiling process to Bob as the Porcelanosa wall tile is installed in the bathroom. A glazed clay tile is being used on the wall, while the floor will be done in a porcelain tile that is super strong and only �� inch thick. The wall tile is a Subway design, replicating the look of the New York Subway on a larger format. Shedrofsky explains how the datum line is used to create a tile layout that is centered from top to bottom and side to side for a pleasing look. The tiles are applied to the wall with an petroleum-based mastic and a ��-inch notch trowel. The mastic is less expensive than thinset, sets up quicky, and prevents sagging or dipping tiles. The tiles have an ��-inch joint that is held by spacers for 24 hours while the job cures. After 24 hours, the spacers are removed and an unsanded white grout is applied to blend the seams into the tile and give a sleek, urban appearance.

Tile installer David Cloutman from DC Tile is installing the decorative, artisanal tile in the new bathroom for the Rowley Victorian. Cloutman explains that he begins at the bottom, setting the tiles along a level line, with a 3/16-inch grout line to hide any irregularities. Cloutman will follow preset lines for each element of the design, including the border tiles, accent line, and field tiles. He is using a premixed standard tile mastic to set the tiles. Bob watches as he sets the pencil-line tiles, the feature-tile border, and another line of pencil tiles to finish this section of the wall. Patience, Bob notes, is critical to a good tile installation.