Interior designer Leslie Curtis shows off another of her decorating ideas in the dining room. She's chosen to frame a sample of an historic wallpaper pattern. The frames were created by Ron and Tracy Lindholm from Cape Cod Picture Framing. Bob joins Ron and his daughter Tracy in the garage workshop to learn about the process. The first step is to choose moldings that will allow the creation of a rabbet that will hold the glass and the picture. Ron selected a few examples from a local lumberyard. Next, he combines two of the pieces using woodglue and a few nails. After cutting the moldings, he uses a corner clamp to hold the pieces together at a 45 degree angle. To secure the pieces, Ron applies carpenter'sglue and a few nails. Once the frame is assembled, Tracy applies an antique finish. After priming the bare wood, she applies two or three coats of gold spray paint. Next, she mixes a combination of paste wax and pigment, such as Japan paint, to age the newly painted surface. Using a damp brush, she stipples a thin layer of the finish on the frame and then wipes away the excess to create highlights.
Interior carpenter John Kiley is hard at work on the staircase in the front hall. The pre-cut risers have already been hung, and he's measured the rise and the run of the stairs. Kiley hangs the poplar stringers, which have been plowed to receive the treads. Kiley applies a bead of glue to the back, and then screws them in from behind. Once the stringers are attached, the whole staircase is ready to slide into place. Next, the treads are attached. Kiley uses a construction adhesive between the stringers and the bottom of the tread and carpenter'sglue along the edge of the stringers. The treads are placed on top and nailed into the riser from above and then screwed with 1-1/4-inch screws from the back. The final step is to insert wedges underneath to insure the staircase remains sturdy.
Here's a technique professional carpenters use to conceal nails or screws: use wooden plugs. Use a dowel bit to drill out the plugs. Dip each plug in carpenter'sglue, and tap it into place over the nail or screw. Let the glue dry, then shear the plug off with a wood chisel. Sand the suface smooth and apply your finish.
anybody out there know of a product that you use under wood, especially pine that maintains elasticity to help allow for expansion and contraction of the boards? In other words a glue that doesn't harden up like most glues?
is there any product that will successfully remove woodglue? I glued wooden train tracks to plywood and now want to remove - is it possible? I tried goo be gone? no luck. only want to pursue if can really be done. thanks for the help!