Bob meets with Peter Merianos and the crew from Coastal Heating and Air Conditioning who are fabricating the AC ductwork on site. With the Kenmore airhandler already installed in the attic, the crew begins assembling the ductwork using five-foot lengths of pre-crimped sheet-metal ducting as the basic material. The sections snap together and are secured with sheet-metal screws and foil tape. To add a new line off the main trunk, the crew cuts a hole into the the trunk with a special tool. A starting collar from which the new line will extend is then inserted into the hole. The ductwork is insulated using vinyl wrap, which is a one and a half-inch vinyl-coated fiberglass blanket.
Bob talks with Tim Cutler from TJ's Plumbing and Heating about the Viessmann boiler. The boiler is heating the domestic hot water, the radiant floor heating, and the hydro-air heating system. The hydro-air system has an airhandler with a hot water coil. Warm air is dispersed throughout the building using this hydro-air system, which heats the existing, older portion of the house. Showers and hot water will be fed by a 79 gallon indirect, dual-coil, domestic hot-water tank. The bottom coil is fed by the solar heating system, which has 30 Viessmann evacuated tubes on the roof. The tubes have alcohol within them which has a low boiling point. When the alcohol in the tubes boils, it transfers the BTUs to a bulb, which transfers the heat to the lower coil for domestic hot water. A concrete cutter came in to cut an opening in the basement between the old portion of the home and the new addition. Bob talks with Bill Sloan from Viega North America about the radiant slab heating in the new addition. The radiant heating system uses PEX tubing. Viega manufactures the manifolds for this tubing and the copper tubing used to transfer hot water to the PEX tubing. ProPress joints that do not require any soldering are used for this sytem.
Thank you; however, the ductwork coming directly out of the airhandler (plenum?) and the handler are insulated. We have had 3 different A/C companies check the pressure and freon levels, and
You can try to insulate any exposed duct from on top of the furnace and the coil box. Most air handlers are insulated within their own chasis. All you really need is approx. 1"- 1 1/2" of glass insulation.
Air handlers are insulated with a thin layer inside. If they are insulated further, that is a help to save energy, but it may make it difficult to service.