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Repairing and Relining the Chimneys
Repairing and Relining the Chimneys

One of the home improvement projects for the Melrose home was to repair the chimney. The chimneys for the furnace and the fireplace were both in need of repair. The furnace chimney flue needed to be relined to meet code. A flexible stainless-steel liner will protect the home from fire danger or carbon monoxide poisoning. Jack Frederick of Frederick Gerraghty reviews some of the technology that went into the fireplace. The pipe used in this project had a double wall which protects the heat of the natural draft needed to properly vent chimneys. Three-foot, twist-lock lengths of pipe were assembled on site and dropped down from the top of the chimney. The fireplace chimney needed urgent attention both inside and out, so a new gas fireplace insert could go in the hearth opening. There was a lot of damage to the brick at the top of the chimney. The bricks were removed and replaced by Tim Martinson of Upside Down Chimney Sweeps. Some of the bricks were very loose and were removed and re-mortered.

Winterize Your Home
Winterize Your Home

Here's another great tip from BobVila.com. While you were having fun in the sun this summer, it was no vacation for your house. Sun, wind and rain can cause as much wear and tear as snow and ice. A fall checklist will tip you off to some problems before they become nasty mid-winter surprises. Check your house from top to bottom. Start by inspecting the roof with binoculars: Are your shingles worn or failing? Check the attic for signs of leaks around the skylights or vents, chimneys, and have your chimney cleaned once a year. Clear out your gutters and check for leaks there, too. Drain your outside hose spigots if you live where pipes can freeze. Switch your screens for storm windows, and seal any drafty windows and doors. The same goes for paint and siding: make sure you caulk or repair those gaps around windows, doors, trim and vents, and replace any siding that is failing. In the basement, check for dampness on the floor and walls, test your sump pump, flush your water heater and check for any signs of leakage. Clean your dryer vent regularly. Make sure that paints or any flammable materials are stored away from heat sources in a closed metal cabinet. And make that appointment to have your heating system serviced yearly. Do the top-to-bottom check this fall, and you ll avoid expensive surprises this winter! Find out more at BobVila.com: The ultimate home improvement web site! BobVila.com 2008

Supporting the Chimney Flues and Hearth
Supporting the Chimney Flues and Hearth

Bob and the mason discuss the chimney. Pointing out that we have two flues, one for the boiler in the basement and one for the wood stove. By code, the ceramic flue liners need to be surround by at least four inches of solid masonry (the chimney). The mason tells Bob how they are going to attach the pipe from the wood stove to the flue. Then the mason shows how easy it is to cut a four-inch cement block with a hydraulic jack. The mason and Bob then discuss the supports for the hearth, including a concrete table and a blue stone finishing floor.

Trimming the Chimney with Fieldstone
Trimming the Chimney with Fieldstone

The structure for the fireplace is now being trimmed out with real stone. Bob talks with John Nadler of Plymouth Quarries about the stone being used. In this case, real stone is cut thin so it can be applied like a manufactured veneer. The stone is a New England fieldstone from Connecticut. The stone can be cut with a hammer, a four-inch grinder, or a wet saw. Because the stone is so thin, it can be cut quite easily. It costs approximately $12-15 a square foot. In contrast to traditional stone which weighs about 50 pound to the square foot, this is a lightweight stone product weighing less than 15 pounds to the square foot. The installation can go from the top down as it does not require any structural footings underneath. Bob talks with Joseph McDonough of McDonough Masonry. McDonough built the original chimney when the house was built over 25 years ago. A grout bag is used to squeeze the mortar into the joints between the stones. After two to three hours, once the mortar is set, McDonough uses a pointed stick to scratch out the joints. He then brushes the joints to clear any fine leftover particles.

Repairing the Brick Chimney
Repairing the Brick Chimney

Bob meets with Ed and Lisa Zywusko, a husband and wife masonry team and sees how they are going to refurbish the old brick chimney. Ed demonstrates the techniques used to lay the cement and place the bricks in place.

Installing the Chimney Liner
Installing the Chimney Liner

Bob and Chris Vila join Andy Grover of Hallsted Welles Associates for the installation of a new, flexible, stainless-steel chimney liner. Grover has already completed exploratory demolition at the smokebox, above the fireplace. A probe the width of the chimney opening was inserted and run down the chimney to determine the flue length. Then a video-scan camera was inserted and run the length of the chimney to look for any obstructions or irregularities that might need to be cleared. Grover is using a heavy-gauge, 304 stainless-steel alloy liner with a lifetime warranty for wood-burning fireplace use. Grover explains that there was once a cast-iron firebox that is no longer present. The decision to use a flexible liner rather than terra cotta means they need only punch a small hole in the brick, rather than tearing out the chimney wall from the fireplace to the roof. A nose cone and hook are attached to the liner and it is winched up from the roof. Once in place, a 30-watt draft inducer will be installed to ensure steady drafting for the new chimney.

Home Inspections: Buyer Beware
Home Inspections: Buyer Beware

Here's another great tip from BobVila.com. Falling prices are good news if you re house-hunting, but now, more than ever, buyer beware. Most sellers just aren t motivated to do expensive repairs in this market, so problems sometimes get painted over or hidden, and it s up to you to find them. Your best bet is to hire a certified home inspector. If you get a recommendation from your realtor, check references; you want an independent and unbiased opinion. Your inspector should look at the house thoroughly with you and give you a written assessment of the house s condition from top to bottom, including windows, doors, trim, siding, roof and chimneys. It should include an assessment of the building s structure and mention any signs of settling or instability. It should cover the siting of the house on the lot and tell you if there are any drainage issues you should be worried about. And it should give you an idea of the age and safety of all the mechanical systems in the house and whether anything is unsafe or needs to be replaced. The inspector s report gives you leverage to negotiate a lower price, have repairs made before closing or back out if you don t want to deal with serious problems. Depending on where you live, whom you hire and how long the inspection takes, the report will cost you anywhere from $200 to $700, but it can save you thousands. It s definitely money well spent. Find out more at BobVila.com: The ultimate home improvement web site! BobVila.com 2008

Tour of Middleburgh Plantation
Tour of Middleburgh Plantation

Bob takes us on a tour of historic Middleburgh Plantation, the oldest surviving wooden house in South Carolina.

Tour of the Jackson Homestead in Newton, Massachusetts
Tour of the Jackson Homestead in Newton, Massachusetts

Bob takes a tour of the Jackson Homestead in Newton, Massachusetts. David Olson is on hand to talk about the Jackson family, who made their name as candle makers. The museum features a number of exhibits, including Native American displays, abolitionist memorabilia (the home was a stop on the Underground Railroad) and a history of the Newton, Massachusetts area.

Shaker-Style Mural Painting
Shaker-Style Mural Painting

Bob checks in with artist Polly Forcier from MB Historic Decor to get an update on some of the home's decorative painting. Forcier is working on a Colonial-style mural inspired by the work of Rufus Porter, an itinerant painter from the 19th century. Forcier has chosen the dining area just outside the sunroom as the location for her mural. The natural sunlight pouring through the windows serves as a reference point for the highlights in her mural. She uses charcoal to outline the mural's design and then begins painting. For the details, such as the scene's houses and trees, Forcier uses a series of nine stencil overlays. To apply the paint, Polly uses a special stenciling brush employing a rotating stroke rather than stippling the paint on.

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