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Elm Court's Utility Room and Washer and Dryer Hookup
Elm Court's Utility Room and Washer and Dryer Hookup

Donald Brazie from D & B Plumbing demonstrates how to hook up a washer and dryer in a utility room that was formerly a bathroom on the Elm Court's second floor. Bob also reviews the high-efficiency Energy Star washer and dryer from Whirlpool. The washer uses one-third the amount of water necessary for a standard wash cycle. It also removes more water than standard washers during the spin cycle. As a result, the dryer runs for a shorter amount of time, using a reduced amount of energy compared to typical models.

Call-In Access
Call-In Access

A Honeywell thermostat, in combination with the company's Telephone Access Module (installed in the basement or a utility closet), allows homeowners to dial into a home's HVAC system via telephone and make adjustments remotely.

Installing the Water-Cooled HVAC System
Installing the Water-Cooled HVAC System

Jeff Akers of The Air Authority explains how heat is recovered from the water that flows to each of the units in the high-rise apartment to fuel the heat pump in this Miami condo. The water is received, the heat is rejected from the water and into the pump, then the water is sent back to the water tower for cooling and redistribution. The unit is housed in a utility closet that will be concealed by a louver door to provide the only air return for the HVAC system. The ductwork in the building must be fiberglass or metal, rather than flex, and is covered with mastic at all seams to prevent leakage as mandated by Florida energy policy. Akers then shows Bob the Energy Star thermostat that operates without wires or mercury, plugging right into the system at the wall. The thermostat features a five-minute delay to prevent short-cycling and resulting damage to the system. It also has a fan-only setting for cooler days. All settings can also be locked to avoid tampering, a feature that is critical for a vacation getaway that is frequently unoccupied.

Brownstone Kitchen and Butler's Pantry
Brownstone Kitchen and Butler's Pantry

The huge space that is the kitchen of the Manhattan Brownstone has received its finishing details. Basaltina stone covers the counters, island, desk area, and built-in bar. There is a large double-door utility closet that houses the washer and dryer, as well as brooms and cleaning supplies. The custom cabinetry has a classic wainscoting profile and an off-white catalyzed finish. There is floor-to-ceiling storage that will need to be accessed, perhaps with a library ladder to traverse the space. Project manager Chris Vila shows Bob the built-in bar space that is designed to look like a butler's pantry, complete with glass-front cupboards and restoration-glass inserts from Bendheim. The Sub Zero 42-bottle capacity wine fridge is compatible with the home's security system to safeguard precious wine collections and block access.

Creating the Jambs and Hanging a Door
Creating the Jambs and Hanging a Door

Bob works with the crew from Thorough Construction as they prepare the Woodport door for hanging on site. The door is stabilized by a horse that holds it steady while the work is done. A jig serves as a guide as they router the mortise for each brass ball-bearing hinge. The router creates uniform, flat cuts for the hinges on both the door and the jamb piece. The jambs and header are made from poplar. They are glued and then screwed in place, checked for square, then braced with temporary strapping before being transported to the rough opening. A single screw is set in the header to hold it in place while the installers shim it and check to be sure it is plumb and level. The door jambs and header are then screwed into place. They must trim the door along the bottom edge, which is taped to protect the finish from damage during cutting. Once in place, temporary drywall screws hold the door until the brass screws are inserted as a finish detail when all adjustments have been made.

Planning a Safe Room
Planning a Safe Room

Every year, tornadoes, hurricanes, and other severe windstorms rip through hundreds of towns and cities across the United States, injuring and killing people and causing millions of dollars in property damage. You can protect your family from injury caused by the high winds and flying debris of a windstorm by constructing or installing a safe room in your home. A safe room is different from the other rooms in your home because it has been specially designed and tested to withstand wind speeds of up to 250 miles per hour and the impact of a 15 pound 2 by 4 flying at a speed of 100 miles per hour. Typically, the safe room should be located in a central, interior, ground-floor area of the home for additional protection as well as accessibility. The basement of a home can also be used as a location for a safe room. A safe room can be incorporated into the construction of a new home, or it can be retrofitted into an existing home. The safe room can function year-round as a usable area, such as a bathroom, closet or utility room. Safe rooms can be constructed out of reinforced concrete, reinforced concrete masonry or combinations of wood frame and steel sheathing or concrete masonry infill. Safe rooms can also be manufactured, assembled and installed on site. Here are some things to consider when constructing or installing a safe room: Safe rooms must be structurally isolated from the main structure of your home. Safe rooms must be securely anchored to the foundation. Safe rooms installed in or over a crawl space must have a separate foundation. Safe rooms must have adequate ventilation. All components of safe rooms, including walls, ceilings, and door assemblies, must be designed and tested to resist the specified wind forces and prevent perforation by windborne debris.

Installing Electrical Wiring in an Old Home
Installing Electrical Wiring in an Old Home

Bob meets Barry Driscoll, the electrician who is wiring a third-floor sub panel. The panel feeds air handlers, bedrooms, bathrooms and an entertainment area. At the time the house was built in 1892, gas, not electricity, was used for lighting. It wasn't until the 1920s that electricity was used in the house. City of Cambridge electrical inspector looks at the sub panel for adequate size and proper location.

Tour of the Completed Interior of an Affordable Home
Tour of the Completed Interior of an Affordable Home

Bob and Join Druley continue their tour of the finished model built by Quaker Homes in Falmouth, Massachusetts. Druley gives Bob a sense of the finishes and options that will be standard in the affordable homes currently under construction. The half bath and laundry room is a generous space located next to the master bedroom. The master bedroom is 16-by-13 feet with a small walk-in closet and a large seven-foot closet. The master bath is spacious and accessible for a wheelchair or a walker. The owner used the cabinet and fixture allowance to select a single-bowl sink, white cabinets, laminate vanity counter, and a five-foot accessible shower with seats.

Floorplans and Layout of the Container House
Floorplans and Layout of the Container House

Back on site, Bob joins Ray Price for a look at the ISBU's on their foundations. The total footprint of the house is 58 feet from front to back, or 1,800 square feet in total, with 2 ISBU's on each side. Between them, 7 3/4 inch-wide steel floor joists will run 16 inches on center and be welded on each end to the ISBU's, creating a total steel structure that will then get a plywood subfloor. Price shows Bob the floorplans for this Highland model. It has a front entry that leads to a living room, dining room, and kitchen combination that functions like a great room and family space. A central hallway leads to the back of the house and passes between two bedrooms on the right with a bath between them and two bedrooms on the left, including a master bedroom with its own bath, walk-in closet, and utility room. The single-car garage is built of cement block. The exterior will be finished in stucco like a traditional Florida home, and will match its identical, but smaller, prototype down the block.

Moving an Existing Oil Tank
Moving an Existing Oil Tank

Bob explains how the family decided to stay with oil heat, especially since their oil tank was recently replaced. Bond-Tite Tank Service moves the tank into the new utility room in order to make room for the basement playroom. Don Adams of Bond-Tite Tank Service reviews the steps taken to move the tank. First the oil was drained and pumped into the truck. Once drained, the connecting pipes were removed from the tank and the oil line was disconnected. Normally Adams does not recommend moving old oil tanks but he is confident in this case because the tank was installed by his company only two years ago. The tank is set down in a 25-gallon tank tray to catch any drips or leaks. The tank's legs are set so the tank is level. The pipes are reconnected to the tank. David Lodding of Lincoln Laboratory reviews how water condenses inside oil tanks and can lead to corrosion over time. The best way to prevent this is to put a liquid corrosion inhibitor into the tank. Tank Guard moisture inhibitor comes with a warranty should the tank ever fail.

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