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How to Replace a Leaky Valve

A corroded shutoff valve can start to leak. Consider replacing the valve to save water and prevent water damage.

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Bucket Copper pipe Coupling Emery paper Flame-proof cloth Flux brush Flux Gate valve Pipe cutter, circular Propane torch Solder

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How to Replace a Leaky Valve

computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" Time and corrosion can cause a brass shuttle valve to leak in fail. Here's how to replace the valve. First, find and shut off the water supply to the pipe feeding the water valve. There may be another water valve closer to the water supply or you may have to temporarily shut off the water to the house. Next, drain off the water in the pipe so it won't spill a household water when you cut the pipe. To do that, first locate a faucet that's physically at the same height or below the valve you're going to replace. Open the valve and let all the water that is in the plumbing system in the house drain out. To accelerate the process, open a few faucets above the valve you're going to replace to allow the air to rush into the plumbing system breaking any vacuums and displacing the water so it can run out. With the water out of the pipe, it's time to cut away the old valve. Open the valve completely. Loosen the nearby support brackets and try to pull the pipe as far from the nearby surfaces as you can. This will not only give you room to work, but it will keep the flame of the torch away from flammable surfaces. If the space is tight, look for a circular pipe cutter. Pick a spot a few inches to 1 side of the valve. Placing the cutter around the pipe, turn it in a circular motion until the tool cuts through the pipe. "

" There are tools made specifically to clean away the built up oxide on a copper pipe, which you can use as well. These tools have wire brushes that will clean the end and the inside of the pipe as well, and do it carefully as the solder will only adhere to freshly exposed shiny copper. Next, we'll measure the pieces to fit. Temporarily fit a small length of copper pipe to the new gate valve. Slide the new valve into the end of the existing pipe. Hold the other end of the new pipe up against the existing pipe and notice where they meet. Now make a cut mark 1/8 of an inch back from the end of the existing pipe. Using the pipe cutter, cut the length of new pipe at the mark. Sand both ends of the newly cut pipe until they are bright and shiny. Also clean the ends of the inside edges of the new pipe to remove all traces of Oxide, and sand the inside of both ends of the new valve and the inside to the new coupling you'll need to connect the 2 lengths of pipe. Any traces of oxide interferes with the solid bonding of the solder to the plight, which is needed for a leak-proof joint. Spread the pipes apart, and dry fit the new valve, pipe, and coupling to check for a good fit. Once you're satisfied that the pieces fit, disassemble the pipes, and using a flux brush, apply a light coating of soldering paste to the cleaned ends of all the copper pipes as well as inside both sides of the new gate valve and the coupling. Reassemble the pipe and coupler. Using a propane torch, guide the blue tip of the flame along the end of the coupling until the flux starts to melt. Now lightly rub the solder along the edge of the coupling until the solder begins to melt and flows freely under the coupling. Immediately remove the solder and the torch and allow to cool. Very little solder is needed to make a clean solid joint. Be careful not to add too much solder or overheat the joint. Next, open the gate valve and temporarily remove the handle. Heat the end of the valve with the torch until the solder begins to melt, and lightly rub the solder along the edges of the joint until the solder flows freely into the connection. Immediately remove the heat and solder. While the valve is cooling, wet the wood joints and any surrounding surfaces behind the area where you'll be soldering. Fasten a fireproof cloth behind the area where you'll be soldering. You can purchase these clothes from a plumbing supply house. Without taking these preventative measures, there's a real danger of starting a fire. Now take the parts you've assembled on the workbench and apply a coating of flux to all 4 parts of the remaining connection; the outside of the 2 existing pipes, and the inside of the new gate valve, and the coupler. Assemble the unit, twisting and pushing the couplings together until they slide tightly in place. Turn the valve to the open position and temporarily remove the handle to protect it from being damaged by the heat of soldering. Guide the blue tip of the propane flame along the end of the coupling, raising the temperature high enough to melt the flux. Then lightly rub the solder against the edge until it melts and is drawn into the heated joint. Now heat the edge of the valve, being careful to keep the torch from directly heating the valve mechanism itself. For neat fittings, you can quickly wipe down the connection with a very wet rag to smooth the joint and remove the excess solder. Allow the joints to cool for 5 minutes while you close all the faucets you opened to drain down the plumbing system. When the valve is cool so you can touch it, attach the handle and close the valve. Slowly turn on the main water supply. Your new valve is ready for years of service."

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Quieting Loud Pipes

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. If your pipes are whistling, banging or knocking when you turn the water on or off, there are things you can do to quiet them. Water hammer is a common cause of banging pipes. In plumbing where water pressure is high, shutting off the tap can cause the pressure to back up and jolt the pipe, a little like slamming on the brakes in your car. The jolt can be especially violent when a solenoid-controlled appliance like a washer or dishwasher shuts the tap since the shutoff happens instantaneously. Many homes come already equipped with water hammer arresters, which are small air chambers attached above the water line to absorb the pressure of the water as it s shut off. Spiral-shaped water hammer arresters were also used years ago and you may still find them in older homes. Plumbing that s not properly anchored to the framing can rub or bang on whatever is nearby and cause a racket. All this banging and jolting can strain pipes and copper fittings and you can eventually wind up with a leak. It s best to deal with the cause of the noise wherever you have access to the plumbing. Plastic or nylon pipe inserts work well to cushion pipes running through framing members, but they need to be installed when you do the plumbing. For retrofitting, try pipe hangers. These plastic hooks hold the pipe off the framing and have a felt or rubber cushion to absorb any movement and prevent noise. Whistling sounds are also common where a shutoff valve hasn t been opened all the way or where pressure is high. If your water pressure is excessively high, installing a pressure-reducing valve near the water meter will get rid of the noise and lower your water bill. But consult a plumber first to be sure it won t take too much pressure away from any upper story plumbing. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Unfreezing Pipes

When water supply pipes freeze, first restore home heat to the area. Start working on the supply side and leave a faucet open so you can tell when a flow starts. Pour boiling water over cloth wrapped around the pipe, or use a heat gun, heat lamp, or electrical heating tape. Avoid propane torches: their concentrated heat may cause pipes to burst.

Copper Pipe Joints

First use fine sandpaper to clean the inside of the fitting and the ends of the pipe. Then brush flux onto your fitting. Join the pipes together and use a propane torch to heat the fitting, not the pipe; that pulls the solder into the joint. If the copper turns black, it's too hot. Now, wipe off the excess, and that's all there is to it.

Replacing Brass Water Pipes with PEX Tubing

Al Leone of Leone Plumbing replaces the old brass water pipes with PEX tubing in the Melrose basement project. Leone explains that the water hammer will be removed as it is so old it is obsolete. Leone cuts the pipes into sections for easy removal. The brass pipe dates back to when the house was built and is corroded and thin from years of use. The proper length of tubing is pulled and held in place by a bend support. Bob explains that by using PEX tubing, more headroom is created in the basement and the sink and laundry lines can be esily relocated. Kyle Tasse of Viega North America shows Bob the three different types of PEX: Pexcel for plumbing, Pextron for heating, and Fostapex for both plumbing and heating. According to Tasse, the advantage to Pexcel is the connection system that features a sleeve with an eyehole for double checking that the sleeve is securely on the tubing. The fitting holds the sleeve in place so that the lines can be dry fitted and attached later. Bob points out that innovative technology is exciting for do-it-yourselfers, but it is often best to hire a master plumber.