View ChannelsFeatured: Finance
View ShowroomsFeatured: Radiantec - Radiant Solar Heating

BobVila.com

Home

How to Repair Wooden Shingles

Broken or rotten shingles should be repaired to keep a home protected against the elements.

DIFFICULTY RATING:

Get Adobe Flash Player to see this content.

View text version of this Step-by-Step

Download for iPod

What materials were used in this video?

2 x 4 Board Brushes Hand saw Mallet Nails, galvanized 8-penny Paint Shingle-ripping bar Shingles Stain Tape measure

Clip Transcript For:

How to Repair Wooden Shingles

computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" Repairing a broken or rotten shingles is easy to do with the right tools the secret weapon. Is the shingle ripping bar. First remove the old shingles by sliding the shingle ripping bar up under the shingles and pulling the pieces out. Be careful not to lift the upper course of shingles too far from the wall otherwise you'll crack the shingles and have to replace them to. Now using the nail cutting feature of the shingle ripping bar. Slide the shingle ripping bar up underneath the road shingles and fish for the heads of the nails that hold the old shingles in place. When you look -- give the handle a sharp blow with a hammer to cut the nail. And then pulled a shingle out the letters and each edge of the shingle ripping bar. Will cut through with the nails allowing you dislike the broken shingle pieces out. Remove any other shingles that are cracked or otherwise damage. Do this until you've removed all the shingles you want to replace. If you're only replacing a few shingles it's a good idea to stain the front. Back and sides of each shingle before you nailed them in place. Because they're stained first. The shingles will be less likely to curl work up after their installed. Be sure the bottom edges of the shingle are well covered so that the water doesn't wick up into the shingle overtime. When the stained shingles are draw they'll be ready to fit into place. Make sure that the spaces between the shingles. Are at least an inch or more away from the spaces in the course of shingles either above or below this is so that any water that follows a crack. Ends up on the outer surface of the shingle instead of working its way along the cracks and up and under the shingles. Leave a quarter of an inch of space between each shingle. And nailed the shingles in place with -- galvanized eight penny nails. To to a shingle one on each side at least an inch from the edge. Replacing shingles on the course above slight -- replacement shingle up under the course centering it in place. Drive into eight penny galvanized nails. Up under the drip line at an angle. Each nails should be at least an inch from the edge of the shingle to prevent it from splitting. Measure the width of the last space to be failed. And subtracting half of an -- To allow for two quarter -- spaces. One on either side. Transfer the measurements to the stained shingle being careful to make sure the line is square. And using the saw cut the shingle to size. Hold the shingle in place with the bottom edge a quarter of an inch below the rest of the shingles leave one quarter of an inch of space on either side of the shingle. Drive the nails up just under the drip edge at an angle. And the nails are driven in place -- two by four. Under the new shingles and hammer the shingle into place then placed a two by four over the face of the overlaying shingles. And give the shingle sharp rap city the nails underneath. Within a short time the repair will be invisible."

[-]

More Videos »Related Videos

Staining Cedar Shingles

To protect new shingles, apply a penetrating stain. Stain soaks in and protects the wood from the weather, and won't crack, peel, or chip. Brush liberally along the bottom edges of each course then over the face of the shingles with a generous coat of stain. Start on the top course and work your way down. For an authentic weather look, use a transparent stain.

Cedar Shake Shingles and Clapboard Siding

Bob meets with Michael Shiels to discuss the progress on the modular home project�s exterior construction. Bob points out some of the features that give this home its custom built exterior feel, including Cedar clapboard shingles on the lower half and Cedar shake shingles on the upper portion of the exterior walls areas as well as steel roofing. Cedar shakes are applied as a panel to the exterior of the house. Ken Clark from Cedar Valley Shingle is on location to demonstrate the installation of these panels and explain how they are produced at the factory for quick installation at the home site. At the factory, two-foot-by eight-foot plywood sheets are laid out and band saw cut, kiln dried, Western Red Cedar shingles are stapled and glued to the sheet. The band saw cutting process increases the open grain on the wood and allows for a better penetration of stains and sealers to extend the life of the shingle. The plywood backing increases the �dead� air space and increases the insulating value of plain cedar. The corners are made at the factory to conserve time and materials at the job site. The interlocking panels and pre-constructed corners can shave 75 percent off the install time of standard shakes. The shingles are also available pre-finished.

Weaving Cedar Shingles and Prepping Damaged Wood Trim for Painting

House nine of the Elmwood project. The front porch project continues with new red cedar shingles and a paint job.

House Prep and Exterior Painting

Bob talks with Al Roberta who is painting the Medford house. The house needed a lot of prep work before painting. The home's original wood shingles had been covered for 30 to 40 years by manmade shingles during which time they had gotten pretty baked and oxygen-starved and subsequently brittle. Some of the shingles were replaced but for budget reasons those that could be were saved leaving behind a patchwork of new and old shingles to be painted. Al is using an oil-based primer from Sherwin Williams that will both seal the house giving it a nice hard shell and also act as a stain-blocking agent as the new cedar shingles have a tendency to bleed. Al is applying the primer with either a small 3-inch roller or with a cutting brush. It's not an easy job to paint a house with so many angles. The finish coat is a latex topcoat. It's a Sherwin Williams Duration product that goes on twice as thick as conventional paint. The topcoat is rolled and back-brushed. Weather-permitting the job should take about three week.