" Cold winters with single-digit freezing weather will cause outdoor faucets to freeze. If the faucet you want to use is subject to freezing, here's what you can do to keep it working through the winter. You can cover the outside faucet with an outside faucet cover. Most of these faucet covers are made with close cell foam insulation to help prevent freezing. To install the cover, slide the inner loop around your faucet handle. Press the cover into place and then pull on the loop to seal the cover against the wall. This is a quick solution, but a more permanent approach is to install a freeze-proof faucet. In a freeze-proof faucet, the valve assembly is inside the house, keeping it warm and protecting it from freezing. To install a freeze proof faucet, turn off the water supply to the faucet. Open the outdoor faucet and let it drain. Loosen nearby support brackets and try to pull the pipe as far away from nearby surfaces as you can. Using a pipe cutter, cut the copper pipe leading to the outside faucet at a convenient location close to the outside wall of the house. Circular pipe cutters like this one allow you to cleanly cut the pipe, even when it's running close to a joists or a wall. Next, go outside and unscrew the fasteners holding the faucet to the side of the house. With the screws removed, pull out the old faucet and pipe. The new freeze pipe requires a 1-inch hole. Using a twist drill bit, drill out the 5/8-inch hole to a 1-inch hole. Slide in the new freeze-proof faucet, and temporarily secure it in place with a screw. Next, we'll dry fit all the new plumbing parts and cut them to fit. First, fit a threaded coupler to the end of a new section of 1/2-inch copper pipe. Screw the threaded Cutler onto the end of the freeze-proof faucet. And then, draw a mark 1/8 of an inch back from where the 2 pipes overlap. The 1/8 of an inch is to allow for space inside the coupler. Place the new copper pipe into place, and snap the pipe cutter over the mark. Turn the cutter in a clockwise motion until the pipe cutter cuts through the pipe. Using Emery paper, sand the ends of the newly cut pipe until the ends are bright and shiny. Do this carefully as the solder will only adhere to freshly exposed shiny copper. Now, sand the end of the existing pipe until the sides and end are completely free of oxide. Dry fit the new assembly of pipe and couplings to the freeze-pipe faucet, and slide the coupling on the other end of the assembly onto the existing pipe. There should be a good tight fit. Make sure that the faucet is screwed tightly against the outside wall. Once you're sure that everything fits, it's time to solder the parts together. Placing the new pipe back in the workbench vice, and using a flux brush, apply a coating of flux to the end of the pipe. Also apply a liberal coating of flux to the inside of both ends of the coupler. Flux is also known by the name soldering paste. Now, using a torch, heat the end of the coupling where it overlaps the pipe. When the flux starts to melt, rub the solder against the edge of the joint. As soon as the solder starts to melt, remove the solder and the torch. Do not continue to heat the joint. Moving to the other end of the new pipe, apply flux to the end of the newly sanded pipe as well as to the inside of the threaded couple. With the ends well coated, slide the coupler into place on the pipe. Heat the sleeve of the threaded coupler until the solder starts to flow and is drawn into the joint. While the pipe assembly cools, wrap 2 layers of plumber's tape around the threads on the end of the freeze-proof faucet. This tape seals the space between the thread, assuring a drip-proof connection. Screw the freeze-proof faucet onto the end of the pipe assembly and gently tighten with a wrench. Now, slide the new pipe assembly in through the outer wall and fasten the freeze-proof faucet in place with screws. Remember to open the new valve before you start to solder. Back inside the basement, apply flux to the end of the existing pipe and to the inside of the coupling. Slide the pipe into the coupling. Next, we'll prepare the area for soldering safely. Cover the new connection with plastic to keep it dry and then saturate the adjoining wood with water. The joists are often very dry, and the flame from the torch could start a fire. Next, insert a fireproof cloth behind the area you'll be soldering. You can purchase these fireproof clothes at plumbing supply houses. These 2 steps are good precautions when soldering near flammable surfaces. Using a torch, guide the blue tip of the flame along the coupling and pipe, raising the temperature high enough to melt the solder. When the pipe reaches solder-melting temperature, the solder will be drawn into the joint by the flux filling the connection. Allow the joints to cool for 5 minutes and then slowly turn on the shut-off valve. Your new freeze-proof faucet is ready for years of trouble-free, cold weather service."