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How to Inspect and Repair Gutters
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Abrasive padDrillGutter repair compoundHanging bracketLadderPop riveterSandpaperScrap, gutter materialScrewdriverSelf-tapping screwsStiff brushClip Transcript For:
How to Inspect and Repair Gutters
computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate
" Gutters that are inspected and maintained regularly would be far more reliable and last longer. First, you have to get to the gutters, so let's review ladder safety. Place the ladder on the level solid footing. There should be a 1 to 4 ratio between the height of the latter and the distance that the bottom of the latter is away from the wall. So, for instance, if the latter is going to be raised to 12-feet high, the bottom of the latter should be four feet from the wall or ratio of 1 to 4. Inspect for three kinds of damage; holes, cracks, and sag. Sometimes, what you think is a leak is actually the gutter's overflowing because the drainage is blocked by old matted leaves and sticks. Leaves can also plug up a downspout particularly in the curve parts. Disassemble the first section of the downspout by either removing the screws or drilling out the rivets depending on how it was assembled. Give it a shake. Often, you'll find that the elbow is clogged with leaves. At the bottom of the downspout remove the elbow and inspected downspout for leaves. These sections should be refastened with self-tapping screws made of the same material as the gutter or from stainless steel. Screws make it easier to disassemble later for cleaning. Now, inspect the gutters for cracks between the sections of the gutter or possibly pin holes in the gutter. If you find a small hole, roughly clean the area surrounding the hole with an abrasive pad, so you can assess the damage. Cut a scrap of material about one inch larger on all sides than the whole. The material the patch is made from must be the same material as the gutters are made from, copper on copper or aluminum on aluminum. This will slow corrosion due to electrolysis. Clean and rough sand the area around the whole. Using a small trowel or a stiff brush, spread a small dob of gutter-repair compound on the area around the hole. A disposable flux brush used in sweating copper pipes works well for this purpose. Press the patch into the gutter-repair compound over the whole. Now cover the patch with another coat of compound to make a good seal. Cracks between the overlapping sections of gutter. Especially aluminum gutter can loosen and leak. First clean the area around the seam to remove all traces of dirt and debris. Drill two 1/8 of an inch holes in the bottom and one on each side of the gutters if possible. Pop rivet the sections to draw the sections together for a tight fit. Lay down a coat of gutter-sealing compound over the seam and the rivets. Spread and smooth the compound with a stiff brush extending the coverage up the sides of the seam and out 1 inch on either side. Make sure all the pop rivet joints are well sealed. Lastly, leaks are less likely if the water flows freely to the downspout. The gutter should run steadily downhill. From the end of the gutter to the downspout. If a hanger has bent, broken, or slipped out of place, water will pool in a low spot often causing the gutter to overflow or seemed to leak. This is made worse in areas were cold climate causes the water to freeze. The repair is simple. Either replace or add a new hanging bracket designed for your gutter system. Bringing the low spot back up in the pitch with the rest of the gutter line."
