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How to Repair a Large Hole in Drywall
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How to Repair a Large Hole in Drywall
computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate
" Repair to plumbing or electrical work often leaves you with a large hole in an otherwise finished wall. Here's how to make a virtually invisible repair. First, locate the studs behind the wall using a stud finder. If there are studs near the edge of the hole, we can use the studs to screw the patch to providing solid support; but if the studs are not near the hole as in this case, we will show you a different method to support the patch. To make a patch that will fit, we're going to measure and cut out a rectangular hole. Use a framing square to lay out ninety-degree corners and use a level to make sure that the lines are both square and plumb. Using a keyhole saw. Cut from the inside of the circle to the edge and follow your way along the line. Cutting plaster or wallboard creates a lot of plaster dust, so vacuum the dust as you cut. You'll be glad you did. Carefully square the corners of the hole using a drywall saw. Cut two pieces of wood to be used as support for the new wallboard, and insert them into the hole behind where the wallboard patch will be placed. Fasten the supports to the edge of the existing wallboard halfway under the top and bottom edges of the opening using drywall screws. These supports will provide a firm backing for the wallboard patch. Be careful to keep your hands away from the screws. Now, transfer the measurements of the rectangular opening to new wallboard stock. Using a utility knife and a square, cut the new piece of wallboard to fit the old hole. To cut wallboard, you score deeply on the finished side with the utility knife. Then, turn the board up on end and folded away from the scored line. Run a utility knife up along the fold and then snap the fold away from you. The result will be a clean even cut. Place the wallboard patch over the hole and screw it to the support boards using wallboard screws spaced about 4 inches apart. With the patch in place, lightly sand the perimeter of the patch. Be careful not to cut through the wallboard. Using compound, fill the seams around the patch making the seams level with the wall. To save on sanding, when the compound is almost set, use a wet sponge to smooth the edges of the seam. Then, let this seams dry completely. Use an adhesive back wallboard seam tape. Peel the backing off the tape and apply it to the length of the seam. Press down an equal length over the seam along the top of the patch. Measure and cut smaller lengths of seam tape for the sides. Cut them so that they just touch but do not overlap the layers of tape. Using the 4-inch putty knife spread the compound smoothly over the tape. The idea is to create a smooth transition from the patch to the wall, which we will perfect as we add 2 more coats of compound. When the compound is dry, sand the seam with a large sheet of 80-grit sandpaper attached to a long flat board. Again, it's wise to capture as much plaster dust as you can with a vacuum. Take time and work to get the high points of the compound level with the surface of the war. When the surface is smooth, apply a second coat of compound, and smooth it off with the 8-inch joint finishing knife. Feather this layer out about 2 inches beyond your first coat. Let the compound dry for 24 hours and sand with 120-grit sandpaper fixed to a large flat board. There are also commercial tools available for this purpose. To the third and final coat of compound, thin the compound slightly with water and feather the compound out about 2 inches beyond the edge of the second coat smoothing it off with an 8-inch joint finishing knife. Let the compound dry for 24 hours and sand thoroughly with 120-grit sandpaper. The seams will be flat, smooth, and the patch will be ready to prime and paint."
