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How to Repair a Large Hole in Drywall
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How to Repair a Large Hole in Drywall
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" Repair to plumbing or electrical work often leave you with a large hole in an otherwise finished walls. Here's how to make of virtually invisible repair. First locate the studs behind the wall using a stud finder. If there are -- near the edge of the hole we can use the studs to screw the patch to providing solid support. But if the studs are not near the hole as in this case we will show you a different method to support the patch. To make a patch that will fit. We're going to measure and cut out a rectangular hole. Use a framing square to lay out ninety degree corners. And use a level to make sure that the lines are both square. And plumb. Using a keyhole saw. Cut from the inside of the circle to the edge and following your way along the lines. Cutting plaster or wallboard creates a lot of plaster. So vacuum the dust as you cut. You'll be glad you did. Carefully square the corners of the whole using a drywall -- Cut to pieces of -- to be used -- support for the new wallboard. And insert them into the hole behind where the wallboard patch will be placed. Fasten the supports to the edge of the existing wallboard. Halfway under the top and bottom edges of the opening using drywall screws these supports will provide a firm backing for the wallboard patched. Be careful to keep your hands away from the screws. Now transfer the measurements of the rectangular opening two new wallboard stock. Using utility knife and a square. Cut the new piece of wallboard to fit the old whole. To cut wallboard you score deeply. On the finish side with the utility knife. Then turn the board up on end and folded away from the scored line. Run utility knife -- along the fold and then snap the pulled away from. The result will be a clean even cut. Police the wallboard patch over the whole. And screw it to the support ports using wallboard screws spaced about four inches apart. With the patch in place lightly sand the perimeter of the patch. Be careful not to cut through the wallboard. Using compound. Fill the seams around the patch making the seam to level with the wall. To save on -- when the compound is almost set use a wet sponge to smooth the edges of the scene. Then let this -- strike completely. Use an adhesive backed wallboard seemed. Peel the backing off the tape and apply it to the link to the scene. Press down an equally over the seam along the top of the patch. Measure and cut smaller links of seam tape for the sides. Cut them so that they just touch but do not overlap the layers of tape. Using the four inch party and spread the compound smoothly over the tape. The idea is to create a smooth transition from the patch to the wall which will perfect as we add two more coats of compound. When the compound is dry. Sand the scene with a large sheet of eighty grit sandpaper attached to a long flat board. Again it's wise to captures much plaster dust as you can with a vacuum. Take time and work to get the high points of the compound level with the surface of the war. When the surface is -- apply a second coat of compound and smooth it off with the eight inch joint finishing. -- this layer out about two inches beyond your first coat."
" Let the compound drive for 24 hours and sand with -- 120 grit sandpaper -- to a large flat board. There are also commercial tools available for this purpose."
" To the third and final coat of compound in the compound slightly with water. And feather the compound out about two inches beyond the edge of the second coat smoothing it off for the -- inch joint finishing. Let the compound dry for 24 hours and sand the -- with a 120 grit sandpaper. He seems to be flat smooth. And the pact will be ready to prime and paint."
