There are three important concepts to remember for wind-resistant wall construction. Walls have to resist the uplift forces caused by the pull of the wind. Walls have to resist the shear forces that try to push the walls over. Walls have to resist the lateral force of the wind that tries to push the walls in and pull them away from the building. For uplift purposes, walls are the intermediate link between the roof and the foundation below. To resist uplift forces walls have to have a continuous load path that can be achieved through the use of metal connectors for wood frame construction or a combination of metal connectors, vertical and horizontal reinforcement, and a bond beam at the top of the wall for concrete masonry construction. Shearing forces Walls are also subjected to shearing forces that act in the direction the wind is blowing. As wind blows on a wall, the walls perpendicular to the wall the wind is blowing on, are subjected to these shearing forces and are called shear walls. Shear walls are inherently subjected to the shearing and sliding forces. Wood frame walls resist these shearing and sliding forces through the action of the wall studs, the wall sheathing (preferably plywood), and a specific nailing pattern. Concrete masonry walls resist these forces through a combination of concrete masonry units, mortar, and grouted and reinforced cells. As a result of the walls resisting the shearing forces and being fixed at the base, the walls are subjected to an overturning force, or the tendency to rotate over. For wood frame construction, this force is resisted through the use of a holdown or tensions tied down. Vertical reinforcement and grouted cells resist the overturning forces in concrete masonry construction. Wind Ready Walls Finally, walls have to be capable of supporting the push and pull from the wind. For wood frame construction, studs have to be sized and spaced accordingly to resist the lateral forces, and have to be securely supported at the top and bottom plates. Concrete masonry resists the lateral forces by using reinforcement in grouted cells.

Bob meets Gary Halzel putting the finishing touches on the master bedroom walls. Gary will be rag rolling the wall. He's putting on a coat of oil-based mixture over a latex finish trying to get a translucent effect. The oil-based mixture is oil-based paint, glaze, and paint thinner.

Doug Frueh of West Coast Drywall is in the bedroom applying a textured finish to the fiberglass-faced walls. He is using Magnum, a dry mix that is blended with water to the desired consistency then sprayed on the wall with an airless sprayer. The effect is a splattered, built-up texture that is allowed to sit for a couple of minutes before being knocked down with a plastic wedge trowel that evens out the surface but maintains the texture. This technique is fast and low moisture, making it a perfect finish for Florida construction. Frueh says he can complete a house in just a couple of hours.

Charlie and Bob discuss how important it is to determine where the load-bearing walls are when undertaking a major remodel. Charlie points out the doubled-up 18-inch Georgia-Pacific LVL that is now carrying the entire load of the sidewall and the roof. During the installation Charlie found serious termite damage at the bottom of the support post. Since the LVL (or any beam) is only as strong as the posts that support it, Charlie cut out the damaged piece and put a new pressure-treated pad in and then posted it up with 2 x4s to tie it all in and create a solid point of transfer for the load. Using studs Charlie also created some temporary supports for the second floor joist system while he replaced load-bearing walls with a triple LVL and a 4 x 6 post. This basically transfers the load down to the basement to a lally column which will go down onto a concrete pad. The LVLs are 1 3/4-inch by 9 1/4-inch by 11 feet long.

…Use a pencil to trace around the patch and mark the location on the wall…
…sand smooth the area under the patch. Use a damp sponge to wipe down the area around the…
…hole. Step 4: Position the patch Once the wall is completely…

… Step 37: Shave and bevel the outside edge of the panel. As we did with the molding, carefully shave and bevel the outer edge of the panel until it fits perfectly. Finishing the fit with a hand plane allows you to adjust for any slight variations…

…damaged corner entirely. Mark where the patch will go on the wall and lightly sand the texture off the surface area under the patch. Wipe the area clean with a damp sponge. Select a patch that matches the texture and covers the…

…actually started with a smaller diameter brad point (or spur) that leads the shaft into the hole. Two other spurs at the outer edge of the drill help keep the drill on line. The channels are usually cut deeper on brad point drills that on twist drills…