View ChannelsFeatured: Finance
View ShowroomsFeatured: Radiantec - Radiant Solar Heating

BobVila.com

Home

How to Apply Joint Compound to Drywall Corners

A professional drywall finish has smooth seams and corners. A few tricks will help you to finish your drywall corners like a pro.

DIFFICULTY RATING:

Get Adobe Flash Player to see this content.

View text version of this Step-by-Step

Download for iPod

What materials were used in this video?

120 Grit sandpaper 200 Grit sandpaper 4-Inch finish knife 8-Inch joint compound knife Adhesive drywall tape Drywall knife Joint compound Metal corner

Clip Transcript For:

How to Apply Joint Compound to Drywall Corners

computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" Filling seams are fairly straightforward when finishing a drywall but inside and outside corners are a bit trickier. Here's how to get a professional finish. Let's start with an inside corner. As with the seam, you start by taping the corner and then add compound over the tape to provide a smooth surface. It's best to use an adhesive-backed tape for corners. You can apply an adhesive-backed tape directly to the drywall and then compound over it. Measure the tape to the exact length of the corner to be finished. Crease the tape along the middle and press it firmly into the corner. Apply the joint compound starting in the corner and then feathering the compound out 4 inches on either side. When the compound is dry, sand the corner with"

" sandpaper and the corners is ready for priming and painting. Now, let's move to an outside corner. Finish the outside corners by placing a metal corner bead over the corner. Press the bead firmly into the corner and drive drywall screws through the mesh about every 5 inches apart into the wall stud located behind the wallboard. Now, use a 4-inch finish knife to spread compound mix 3 to 4 inches out from the nose of the bead feathered out into the walls. When the first layer is completely dry, sand it lightly with 120-grit sandpaper, and then apply a second coat of compound mix, feathering the edges to about 2 to 4 inches beyond the first coat. If a third coat is needed, feather it 2 to 3 inches beyond the preceding coat. This creates a tapered finish of joint compound approximately 7 to 9 inches wide at each metal corner. Sand the finish corner and you're ready for primer and paint."

[-]

More Videos »Related Videos

Drywall Install Tips

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Although the two words are often used interchangeably, sheetrock is actually a brand name for drywall, which is gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper or, more recently, between two sheets of fiberglass. Any way you say it, drywall makes finishing walls very practical. For large jobs or those with very high ceilings, hire a pro. But most smaller jobs can be tackled by do-it-yourselfers. Before you get started, run the side of a hammer head along the framing to check for uneven surfaces or any protruding staples or nails. The tools you ll need are a straightedge and measuring tape for sizing your pieces, a utility knife for scoring and snapping, and a keyhole saw or rotary tool for cutting holes for outlets and windows. While some pros still attach drywall with nails, most find it easier to use an electric drill and that wonderful multi-purpose fastener, the drywall screw. You ll need about a pound of nails or screws for every 5 sheets of drywall. Metal corner beads go on all outside corners; inside corners get taped along with the joints between panels. Using pre-mixed joint compound is easier and less messy than mixing your own. You want a mix that s not too quick-drying if you re a beginner so you have a grace period to work in. Pros use about 5 gallons of compound for every 100 square feet, but you may need more depending on your level of experience. Installing drywall involves a series of short steps over a 3- to 4-day period. Follow the steps on BobVila.com for taping and finishing joints, and be sure to wear safety gear and a dust mask while sanding. If you re doing a ceiling, get a helper or a drywall lift. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Drywall vs. Blue Board Explained

Bob meets up with Bill Reid of US Gypsum in the barn of the Medford project. Bill differentiates imperial board (blue board) which is skim coated from drywall (gypsum panels) where the joints are taped. In 2000 US Gypsum developed a new core technology that makes the boards stronger and lighter - for easier handling, cutting, and scoring. The screw spacing is 12 inches on center with the screws flush with the paper providing a good, solid adherence to the wall with the screws. The face paper is treated and absorbent to take the veneer plaster and create the bond. These new boards snap cleanly on the ends. The installer puts a back cut on the edge so that the back of the sheet doesn't hit before the front does. The blue board and skimcoat application is typically not a do-it-yourself project. Traditional plaster jobs were very cost prohibitive so, when veneer plasters came along, they became very popular as they give a much more monolithic look than gypsum panels while providing an abuse resistant finish. Upstairs in the studio the homeowner has specified blue board with veneer plaster and downstairs, where he wants the option to tack artwork to the wall, he has specified a traditional drywall and tape application.

How to Hang Drywall

Finished walls begin with drywall that is level and smooth. Simple tricks will help you hang drywall like a pro.

How to Repair a Large Hole in Drywall

Plumbing or electrical work can leave a hole in drywall. With a few simple techniques, you can repair the hole so it's invisible when finished.