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How to Hang Drywall

Finished walls begin with drywall that is level and smooth. Simple tricks will help you hang drywall like a pro.

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How to Hang Drywall

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" New wallboard adds a nice finished look to any room. By following a few simple guidelines you can create a finish you can be proud. Before attaching wallboard to -- make sure all the studs are evenly matched by measuring with a straight it. If there's a low spot -- is necessary. If there's a high spot shoot it down using a plane. The time you take now in preparing the studs for wallboard will make a big difference in the quality of the finished results. Starting at an inside corner -- the first sheet of wallboard horizontally along the floor. Pull the wallboard tight to the stud and screw -- rock screw through the board and into the stud. Here's a -- once you have the wallboard in place with a few screws snapple line marking the location of the studs. -- be less chance of you missing a start as you move along. Continue to fasten the wallboard to the studs spacing the screws four inches apart. Continue the horizontal row by adding the next sheet. To the blood of the first. At the end of the first throw measure and mark the new board to be cut. Place the last piece tightly in the corner. There's a technique for cutting wallboard. First snap a chalk line on the finish side. Then carefully running utility knife along a straight edge to score the wallboard. It may take several passes. Once the border scored carefully stand it up on edge and ended a wave from the scored side. The board will snap neatly. -- sharp utility knife along the paper backing and complete the split. You may even out any bombs with a utility knife and sandpaper. Continue on to the second row taking care to stagger the joints this add strength to the wall. And makes it easier to finish. If you're covering two walls that meet in a corner make sure the wallboard fits tightly. Would you wallboard screwed down you're ready to keep this seems."

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Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Although the two words are often used interchangeably, sheetrock is actually a brand name for drywall, which is gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper or, more recently, between two sheets of fiberglass. Any way you say it, drywall makes finishing walls very practical. For large jobs or those with very high ceilings, hire a pro. But most smaller jobs can be tackled by do-it-yourselfers. Before you get started, run the side of a hammer head along the framing to check for uneven surfaces or any protruding staples or nails. The tools you ll need are a straightedge and measuring tape for sizing your pieces, a utility knife for scoring and snapping, and a keyhole saw or rotary tool for cutting holes for outlets and windows. While some pros still attach drywall with nails, most find it easier to use an electric drill and that wonderful multi-purpose fastener, the drywall screw. You ll need about a pound of nails or screws for every 5 sheets of drywall. Metal corner beads go on all outside corners; inside corners get taped along with the joints between panels. Using pre-mixed joint compound is easier and less messy than mixing your own. You want a mix that s not too quick-drying if you re a beginner so you have a grace period to work in. Pros use about 5 gallons of compound for every 100 square feet, but you may need more depending on your level of experience. Installing drywall involves a series of short steps over a 3- to 4-day period. Follow the steps on BobVila.com for taping and finishing joints, and be sure to wear safety gear and a dust mask while sanding. If you re doing a ceiling, get a helper or a drywall lift. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

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Bob meets up with Bill Reid of US Gypsum in the barn of the Medford project. Bill differentiates imperial board (blue board) which is skim coated from drywall (gypsum panels) where the joints are taped. In 2000 US Gypsum developed a new core technology that makes the boards stronger and lighter - for easier handling, cutting, and scoring. The screw spacing is 12 inches on center with the screws flush with the paper providing a good, solid adherence to the wall with the screws. The face paper is treated and absorbent to take the veneer plaster and create the bond. These new boards snap cleanly on the ends. The installer puts a back cut on the edge so that the back of the sheet doesn't hit before the front does. The blue board and skimcoat application is typically not a do-it-yourself project. Traditional plaster jobs were very cost prohibitive so, when veneer plasters came along, they became very popular as they give a much more monolithic look than gypsum panels while providing an abuse resistant finish. Upstairs in the studio the homeowner has specified blue board with veneer plaster and downstairs, where he wants the option to tack artwork to the wall, he has specified a traditional drywall and tape application.

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…studs with a straight edge to make sure…
…attaching the new wallboard. Use a straight edge to make sure…
…Screw the wallboard to one stud…
…line with a utility knife. Turn the…
… Step 7: Stagger the joints…

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…to the studs. Using a straight edge and matte or utility knife, cut the wallboard just next to the heads…

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