If your home is not protected by impact-resistant windows and doors; or impact resistant shutters or panels; consider building your own temporary emergency panels. Step One: Plan the Project. Count and measure each window and door that has glass including French doors, sliding glass doors as well as skylights. You might also want to include roof and gable end vents or any opening that if damaged would allow wind to enter your home. Measure each opening horizontally inside the exterior trim and vertically from the sill to the bottom of the top trim. Add eight inches to both the height and width to provide a four-inch overlap on all sides. When measuring a window with an extended sill measure from the top of the sill to the top of the window and add four inches instead of eight. Sheets of plywood are generally 4 feet by 8 feet. This will help determine how many sheets to buy. Be sure to purchase plywood that is 5/8 inch or greater, exterior grade (CDX). Step Two: Assemble Your Tools and Hardware. You will need a circular saw, drill and drill bits, hammer and wrench, work gloves and safety goggles for this project. You will also need an assortment of hardware including bolts, wood or masonry anchors, nuts and large washers. A range of bolts may be used because different bolts will be needed for wood frame versus masonry homes. Wood Homes use lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors Masonry Homes use expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors Step Three: Get Started Having someone help you with this project will make things a lot easier. First drill holes in the same diameter as the bolts or screws, 2-inches in from the edges of the plywood at each corner and at 12-inch intervals around the panel. Next hold the plywood firmly in place over the opening to mark where to drill mounting holes. If the window sill is flush to the wall, secure the plywood on all four sides. If the window sill extends out at the bottom, secure the plywood on the top and sides. For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a wood frame house, use 1/4-inch lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors. The lag screws should penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 1 3/4 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch lag screws that penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 2 1/2 inches. For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a masonry house, use 1/4 inch expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors. The expansion bolts should penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch expansion bolts that penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. If a window or door is larger than a sheet of plywood, you will need to join the panels with 2X4 bracing along the entire seam. Attach the 2X4s to the outside of the plywood panel with 10 gauge, 2 inch long galvanized screws (exterior deck screws) spaced every 4 inches. Use the widest side of the 2X4 to run the length of the entire seam. When youre done, mark each panel with the name of the opening so you will quickly know where to install it when a storm is approaching. Store the panels, washers and nuts together in a location away from the elements. Consider waterproofing the panels with paint or a sealant.

Using a 2x4 "deadman" can make hanging trim much easier. When hanging long pieces of trim use spare 2x4's. Simply wedge the boards under the trim at each end and in the middle. It's an effective trick that frees up your hands and makes installation an easier process.

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Giving your pet a place of his own to take shelter from wind, rain and sun is a noble pursuit. Building a doghouse has long been a favorite do-it-yourself weekend project. Doghouses now come in all shapes and sizes, from cedar chalets to foam igloos. Whether you re building a pre-fab air-conditioned palace or designing a practical, no-frills model, make sure the house fits the dog. First, measure your dog. Her length, plus 3 or 4 inches, should be the length and width of the doghouse. Her standing height, plus 3 or 4 inches, should determine the interior height. And the doorway should be wide and high enough for her shoulders. While it s a departure from the Snoopy look, setting the door off-center will provide better shelter. A hinged or removable roof, window or wall panel allows for cross-ventilation in hot weather and easier cleaning. Build the floor frame of your doghouse from pressure-treated lumber to resist rot and set the corners on concrete blocks or stones to keep it above grade. You may even want to build the house on skids so you can move it if you need to. Doghouses are a great opportunity to recycle scrap materials such as 2x4-inch wall framing, plywood and a few roofing shingles. Design a good roof overhang on all sides and extend it even further over the entrance to shed rain and provide shade. The siting of your doghouse is as important as its construction. If you don t mean it to be a feature of the yard, tuck it behind some bushes or around the side of the house. Choose a shady, level spot away from any streams or badly drained areas. Keep the doghouse away from the fence as well so it doesn t become an escape route. Orient the doghouse with the door facing away from prevailing winds and bright lights at night so your dog can rest comfortably. And help him keep clean by providing mulch, gravel or pavers around his new digs. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Bob and developer John Druley walk through a home under construction by Qualker Homes in Falmouth, Massachusetts. This standard design is used for both the market-priced and affordable homes. The overall dimensions of the house are 26 feet by 36 feet. A center-door entry leads to 13-by-18-foot living room on one side and a 16-by-13-foot master bedroom on the other. The back of the house has a 13-by-18-foot kitchen with a back door and a window onto the backyard, a half-bath and laundry, and an entry to the master bedroom with full bath, tub-shower combination, double-bowl sink, and linen closet. The upstairs has two bedrooms with operable skylights and a full bath. This three-bedroom, two-and-one-half bath Cape will be lotteried as an affordable home to eligible families who make between $29,000 and $65,000 per year, and who qualify for a traditional mortgage. The home is stick-built with traditional 2X4 framing, oriented strand board (OSB) exterior sheathing, low-e glass, tilt-in vinyl windows, and gas heat. Bob and Druley point out that an affordable home must be affordable to operate and heat as well as being affordable to purchase.

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personal satisfaction. Three years ago, Jane Green found herself living in a house she once loved but no longer did; in a failing marriage; and at a crossroads where she could either stick with the same, old misery or choose an exciting yet scary fresh start.

An updated kitchen can make cooking and cleaning easier and let you enjoy the space more. Kitchen improvements are also most likely to create an impression on prospective homebuyers and bring a high return when you sell your home.

People want to get that spa retreat feel out of their bathrooms, says Mark Karas, president-elect of the National Kitchen and Bath Association, which owns the Kitchen/Bath Industry Show and Conference, the largest gathering of kitchen and bath suppliers, designers and ideas.

The backsplash is the perfect union of form and function in the kitchen. As its name indicates, the backsplash protects the kitchen wall from damage and cooking messes. It also provides an easier surface to clean than drywall.