For jobs that require a hammer with more heft and hardness than the usual claw hammer, try a ball peen hammer. Sometimes called an "engineer's hammer" or a "machinist's hammer", it's often the best hammer to use for metal. Use it to drive cold chisels, setting rivets, and shaping metal. The steel head of a ball peen hammer is harder than the head of a claw hammer, so it's less likely to chip on contact.

It has been nearly 12 hours since the concrete was poured on the Punta Gorda, Florida, storm-ready house. The crew from Solid Wall Systems is on site to strip the forms, scrape them, and reoil them with a biodegradable form oil before taking them to the next job. Bob watches as a window buck is stripped away leaving a perfectly clean and square concrete opening in place. Hammers ring as the crew knocks off the wall clips that are specially designed to break away once the walls are set. Bob looks up to see the Simpson Strong Ties that were wet set after the pour protruding from the tops of the walls, waiting to tie down the roof trusses. Bob looks at the finish with Mark Newton of Solid Wall Systems and Jesse Gonzalez of Mercedes Homes. Newton explains that they will apply a skim coat over areas that show voids or imperfections. Gonzalez and the Mercedes crew will finish the walls after they have set for two weeks or so. They will power wash the exterior to remove any residual oil from the forms. Then they will apply a three-coat plaster job using a scratch coat, brown coat, and finish coat to create the look of traditional Florida plaster.

This wooden-handled hammer may look strong enough to pull any nail, but because the grain of the wood is wekaer in this direction, you can actually break the handle if you pull straight back too hard. Here are a couple of tips on pulling nails. Once you get the nail partly drawn, slip a piece of scrap wood under the head of the hammer for better leverage, or try pulling the handle to the side for a better angle on the nail.

If your home is not protected by impact-resistant windows and doors; or impact resistant shutters or panels; consider building your own temporary emergency panels. Step One: Plan the Project. Count and measure each window and door that has glass including French doors, sliding glass doors as well as skylights. You might also want to include roof and gable end vents or any opening that if damaged would allow wind to enter your home. Measure each opening horizontally inside the exterior trim and vertically from the sill to the bottom of the top trim. Add eight inches to both the height and width to provide a four-inch overlap on all sides. When measuring a window with an extended sill measure from the top of the sill to the top of the window and add four inches instead of eight. Sheets of plywood are generally 4 feet by 8 feet. This will help determine how many sheets to buy. Be sure to purchase plywood that is 5/8 inch or greater, exterior grade (CDX). Step Two: Assemble Your Tools and Hardware. You will need a circular saw, drill and drill bits, hammer and wrench, work gloves and safety goggles for this project. You will also need an assortment of hardware including bolts, wood or masonry anchors, nuts and large washers. A range of bolts may be used because different bolts will be needed for wood frame versus masonry homes. Wood Homes use lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors Masonry Homes use expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors Step Three: Get Started Having someone help you with this project will make things a lot easier. First drill holes in the same diameter as the bolts or screws, 2-inches in from the edges of the plywood at each corner and at 12-inch intervals around the panel. Next hold the plywood firmly in place over the opening to mark where to drill mounting holes. If the window sill is flush to the wall, secure the plywood on all four sides. If the window sill extends out at the bottom, secure the plywood on the top and sides. For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a wood frame house, use 1/4-inch lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors. The lag screws should penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 1 3/4 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch lag screws that penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 2 1/2 inches. For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a masonry house, use 1/4 inch expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors. The expansion bolts should penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch expansion bolts that penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. If a window or door is larger than a sheet of plywood, you will need to join the panels with 2X4 bracing along the entire seam. Attach the 2X4s to the outside of the plywood panel with 10 gauge, 2 inch long galvanized screws (exterior deck screws) spaced every 4 inches. Use the widest side of the 2X4 to run the length of the entire seam. When youre done, mark each panel with the name of the opening so you will quickly know where to install it when a storm is approaching. Store the panels, washers and nuts together in a location away from the elements. Consider waterproofing the panels with paint or a sealant.

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