" One, two, three, slow it, slow it we got a lot of wind. Alright, okay."

" Ready to tie her down?"

" Okay."

" Okay, say when Larry."

" We have to tie her up right there Bob."

" Like that?"

" Yeah."

" Beautiful."

" Okay."

" I'll put one more over here."

" Yeah, you wanna put in at least 3 or 4 supports right 'cause we do have a good deal of wind."

" Absolutely."

" Alright. Alright, now this is a funny gable end wall isn't it Larry?"

" Well it's actually, it's half the gable end wall and when it tilts up the part that's below this, the stud part that you see is actually on the inside of the house."

" Yeah that's the inside wall."

" The bolted area."

" Exactly where the cathedral ceiling creates the height in the living room and this will have sheetrock on a drywall."

" What's this?"

" Well, we call that a stiff back, it's when you have studs that don't go all the way up it's have in this."

" Yeah if you look, this continues all the way across and where you have a break in the frame 'cause you don't have the studs going all the way across. You put this stiff back in place."

" Correct."

" In that way you don't have to worry about it kind of folding as you're raising the wall. This will eventually be removed. Riley, what do you think about all the work that's been done here? Does it really make sense to do this before lifting the wall up?"

" Definitely, this is just what you wanna do, you wanna get as much done while the walls on the ground as you can, so you don't hang it up in the air doing it so they've already got the wall lap on and they've got the trim on. Real important is to have it all back grind and framed around so it's really sealed."

" So we put primer paint, alcohol based paint on both sides of that trim board."

" That's right."

" And that'll make sure that there's no peeling there eventually if you have moisture coming through. I better get out of the way. Are we ready to take this one up?"

" Yeah, we're just about ready Bob."

" That wind is really coming up though."

" Yeah."

" Who's calling it?"

" Okay, on three, one, two, three. Slowly, watch out for nails. Jay gets some studs. I get the wall."

" The one right up here."

" I have a block right there Riley."

" Okay."

" Here you go."

" Grab this."

" Alright now, how are we gonna get the ridge across there?"

" Well Bob I'm going to take that little block out way up top of that gable end."

" Yeah."

" What we're gonna do is put a dead man we call it, hold up a 2 by 12 ridge temporarily so that we can install the rear rafters and the 2, 4 foot sections on either side of this roof deck. "

" Yeah."

" You'll have rafters going up."

" Right."

" With the bearing wall right where it's kneeling."

" Yeah it's a complicated frame."

" That's why they have an individual [unk]."

" It's a complicate frame, let's get started."

" I can't get out of here."

" Well the ridge is not in place yet but we can pre-cut the rafters."

" Yes."

" How do you figure the angle that the rafter meets the ridge?"

" Well for that Bob we're gonna use a framing square."

" Yeah."

" And we know that we're going to put up a 9, 12 pitch meaning that horizontally for every 12 inches you come in you're gonna be going up 9 inches at the rise."

" Right, yeah."

" Take the framing square, set it at 9 inches in the inside here, 12 inches and there's your 9, 12 pitch."

" And so that's we're you'll make you're cut."

" That's where will cut it."

" Great."

" How do you figure the distance from the ridge down to the top of the wall?"

" Well, that's called the rand Bob, the hypothesis of this triangle and for that we go back to the framing square and right under 9 is the rand that we'll be using 15 inches in that, this distance here."

" And you multiply that."

" Multiply it times the span."

" Right."

" And that just gives out our length."

" Okay, that's where the rafter meets the wall."

" That's correct."

" And now the cut that you have to make is called the birdsmouth."

" It's the birdsmouth and..."

" Or a cross foot also right?"

" That's right yeah they call it crossfoot around, yeah. I like to put it so that we have 3 1/2 inches cut on the back sides that will allow us to cover the 2 double plates on top of the wall."

" Right, right."

" So we hold the 9 to 12, we hold towards the ridge."

" Again, we're working with the framing square using the 9 and the 12."

" Right, it's that's, then when this cross each other."

" Back to your reference point."

" We go that way and that's it we'll just cut that out."

" That's where we're not cutting out."