Home > Video Channel > Building Basement Stairs

Building Basement Stairs

Bob and Riley are in the basement planning and building a new staircase. Riley explains the "rise over run" rule in designing stairs and measures the dimensions of the area. After a little math, they come up with the measurements needed to cut necessary pieces.
Get Adobe Flash Player to see this content.

Chapters from this episode

Clip Transcript For:

Building Basement Stairs

  computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" Originally, we had our stairs that went from the kitchen area down to the basement but in the wrong direction. So now, we reconfigured it and as I understand it, you got a little bit of a problem 'cause----"

" That would---- we come down here and hit this concrete wall, which doesn't whack so we're going to put in a winder----"

" Yeah."

" A platform and a winder to step-off of."

" So the last few steps of the winder around in this direction?"

" Right."

" Now, I think the first thing that we should talk about is how you determine the sizes here that the height of the riser of the staircase and it's relationship to the tread."

" Right. Well, the basic rule is that the riser plus your tread runs to be somewhere between 17 and 18 inches. You also wanna be sure that the rise is never more than 8 inches and given also is that you will always have one more riser than you will a tread."

" Okay, a little bit important rules."

" Yeah, that----"

" And of course, those dimensions so with ratios have to do with the safety and comfort of the staircase. "

" Right."

" Yeah."

" Definitely."

" So, let's talk about rise first. How do you determine that?"

" Okay, the first thing we really need to know is what out total riser is and that is the measurement from floor to ceiling, always being either rough to rough."

" You mean from floor to the floor above?"

" To the floor above, that's right."

" And not to the ceiling."

" And then, we have 98 inches."

" And you always wanna measure as Riley was saying, either from the rough to the rough----"

" Yes."

" or from a finish floor to a finish floor."

" That's right."

" but not from one to the other----"

" Right."

" 'cause that'll will throw you off."

" Right, that's----"

" That sounds like a good round number, 98?"

" 98, right. So we know that we want our rise to be around 7 inches, so we'll take a 98 divide it by 7 to see how many we have, and it comes out to exactly 14, so that's part of the procedure."

" Now, how about the dimension from here---- from the beginning of the staircase down to the end?"

" Okay, from there to the concrete is 130 and a half inches."

" And now, from that we will take 38 inches, which is what we want for our platform [unk]."

" For the platform, you could have made it as small as 36."

" I could have made it 36, right."

" If you can do 38 that's better."

" Right."

" We'll get down in there?"

" Yes, so we have 130 and a half minus the 38 inches for the platform."

" For the platform."

" 92 and a half inches."

" Right."

" Now, we know that our treads would like to be around 10 inches, so we'll divide that number by 10 telling us that we need 9 treads."

" Yeah."

" So we'll take the 9 divide it into our run 92 and a half and we come up with 10 and a quarter inches for our treads. There'll be 9 of them."

" Sure."

" Knowing that we know we have 10 risers."

" Okay. So the next question is how do you cut the sides?"

" Okay, now for that we'll use a framing square and what we have here is---- some kiln-dried spruce 2 X 12----"

" Right."

" and we'll just start a couple of inches in from the end."

" You always order your length an extra couple of feet, so that you've room to play."

" Yeah, on your stair treads, yeah----"

" To make space, yeah."

" Definitely."

" So we'll hole the framing square one side, which is the riser with 7 inches and this side over here is the tread it's 10 and a quarter."

" And then just keep on going?"

" And then we'll just run that down, the whole length of the slot, made the whole thing right on."

" Where do you make your first cut?"

" Right here, Bob. We're just gonna extend this the first riser line, right through."

" And then, we come in with some 234-inch strapping, which gets hung right there and that will become our first riser."

" That's right."

" But right now, we gotta cut all the excess, right?"

" Yup."

" Alright. So that's how you need 2 nails in each one and that will hold it in place."

" It's gonna hold it Bob."

" Good, alright. Well, we're almost there. Now, what I wanna review is how we built the winder as it's called down here?"

" Okay, well this is a square platform that we started----"

" From the bottom, yeah."

" from the bottom here, which is 90-degree angle. We know we wanna divide into 3 equal parts, so basically it's 30 degree, 30 degree, and 30 degree and so on."

" And so, then you built 3 additional boxes."

" One on top of it---- we just stacked them and one top of each other."

" And that's all there is to it."

" That's it."

" Great."

" Nice job."

 [-]


More Videos »Related Videos

Installing the Concrete Cellar Stairs
Installing the Concrete Cellar Stairs

Back on site, pre-cast concrete cellar stairs, fabricated in Williston, Vermont, are lowered with a boom and bolted up against the house foundation. The stairs, which weigh a good ton, are bolted on with 4 3/4" bolts and waterproofed with a neoprene seal. When finished they will have a metal bulkhead door on top and a door into the basement below.

Installing Custom Shower Doors and Bath Hardware and CO Detector
Installing Custom Shower Doors and Bath Hardware and CO Detector

Bob meets with Greg VanGrover of Ketcham Reflections to observe the finishing touches in the bathroom shower. VanGrover works with architectural drawings to custom fit the shower doors and glass walls. In older homes his factory-trained installers make a site visit prior to fabrication to insure the space is plumb and level. If its not his team will make the piece to fit whole so once its made the installer is not trying to fit a square peg into a round hole. Downstairs Bob meets with Barry Driscoll, the electrician to discuss the importance of Carbon Monoxide detectors. In the basement Bob shows off his mini Wine Cellar with a Marvel Cellarette. Also in the basement is a Wood Waiter from Bruce Fowler Industries of Quebec, Canada. This nifty device saves your back from having to haul wood from the basement to the main floor. This wood elevator transports wood from a basement storage area to a cabinet near the fireplace.

Steel Bulkhead Doors
Steel Bulkhead Doors

A steel bulkhead door can be a great addition to a home. To install, a steel frame is lowered onto the pre cast cellar stairs. Next, pilot holes are drill into the concrete and the steel frame is bolted down. The door and latching hardware are attached, providing secure and weather tight basement access.

A Complete Basement Remodel
A Complete Basement Remodel

The new family room is all done and furnished and looks terrrific. Bob talks with Sarah Monzon, the homeowner who also acted as the general contractor on the project, about the remodeling work done on the room. The room was a "cave" according to Monzon before the project was started. A pitted soapstone sink was previously used as a laundry and had become an eyesore. The room was also cluttered with accumulated junk. Because of the shortage of space in the house, the family decided to finish the basement to add to the living space of the home. Monzon acted as the general contractor for the project because there wasn't money budgeted for the expense, which was not necessarily an experience she would choose to repeat. The local inspectional services department provided a large amount of information for the novice general contractor. It is imperative before homeowners do any work on their home that they obtain the necessary permits and find out what is safe and what is not. If homeowners do work on their homes without a permit and anything goes wrong, insurance will not cover the damage. Before any work was done on the house, the basement floors were concrete and heating ducts crisscrossed the ceiling. There was flooding damage in the basement during the past fall which needed to be corrected and prevented in the future. Basement Systems was called in to install a perimeter drain and drainage system. A lot of existing plumbing was then moved from the ceiling to make more headspace and a new HVAC system was installed to move the heating ducts. The new central air system complete with an air filter made the house much more livable. In one of the smaller spaces in the basement, a new bathroom was installed with the help of technology from Saniflo. Owens Corning Basement Finishing Systems was then called in to install new finished walls. Many of the mechanical devices in the basement are now hidden behind the walls but are still accessible as the walls can be easily removed. A new entertainment center was then installed in the finished basement featuring a S1 Digital Media Center. The media center allows the homeowner to browse digital pictures taken using the family's digital camera or to set the image as wallpaper for the screen. Television shows can be watched or recorded using a schedule guide. The media center also can store home videos, movies, and music. New reclining chairs from Bell'O were put in the entertainment room. When laying protection from flood damage in a basement, it is important to elevate wood from the concrete floor. Instead of using a plywood underlayment, a plastic tile system was used which interlocks and can be screwed down onto the concrete. Plastic webbing underneath the tiles diverts any water which may come up through the concrete or spill in the basement to the perimeter drain. Slide-Lok cabinets were put in the basement to increase storage space. The Slide-Lok wall system was put in place to hang tools in the workspace. The husband of the family is a musician and uses much of the storage space to hold his instruments. Because the room can double as rehearsal space, two and a half inches of fiberglass are in the walls to reduce sound transmission to the outside. The basement has a small office space for the husband as well. Accents throughout the space correlate with other things in the room. The lampshades on the desk have a design which relates to the flooring product. The floor does not have a wall-to-wall carpet although it looks as if it does. The floor is from Binvetec and features tiles of carpet which stick to the floor. The product has interlocking patterns which can easily be layed down. Bean bags from Sumo were put in the room for lounging in and the kids love to play on them. A stairwell fishtank from AquaVista is only four inches deep.

More Content »More Content

Kitchen Staircase
Kitchen Staircase

An elaborate staircase is under construction in the kitchen. Applying a centuries old furniture making technique, the…
…underneath the treads and behind the risers to fill the flaired openings creating an incredibly tight staircase.

Staircase Installation
Staircase Installation

…used to rout out the wall side of the staircase Installing Stairs The staircase is attached on top with some finish…
…they come in and measure, build the stairs off-site, deliver the staircase, install it, and in four to five…

A Staircase for Distinctive Homes
A Staircase for Distinctive Homes

…levels in a smaller space: a "monk" staircase. The steps alternate from left to right to allow the stairs to be a much steeper grade, making them…
…home for young urban hipsters. The monk staircase in this photo is found in a dome-style…

Installing a Staircase and Paneling
Installing a Staircase and Paneling

Horticulturist Ruth Foster's on site again to help spruce up another Home Again project: she and Bob discuss ways to bring…
…paneling is going up on the walls and Ryley's building a sturdy staircase up to the storage loft.

Browse Topics

Click on a letter to browse content by topic alphabetically.



About  | FAQ  | Contact  | Sitemap  | Privacy Policy  | Terms of Use  | Help

© BobVila.com 2009