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Framing the Porch Roof

Bob confers with framing contractor Larry Landers, as Larry and his crew assemble the front porch framework on the ranch house remodel at Lake Cochituate, Mass. Larry explains the type of roof and framing required to hold it up. He shows how the fascia board and how the roof is adhered to it. Bob reviews the earlier framing and beam placements to support the porch roof. The porch is thirty-two feet long and seven feet deep. Larry then explains how to marry the old roof with the new one.

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Framing the Porch Roof Now Playing

Framing the Porch Roof

Applying Rubber Roofing and Flashing Now Playing

Applying Rubber Roofing and Flashing

Applying Exterior Trim to the Dormer Window Now Playing

Applying Exterior Trim to the Dormer Window

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Framing the Porch Roof

computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" OK well last week we got started building this wonderful farmer's porch on the front of the house which not a losers of the new entry to the house that really has a recreational outdoor room we showed you how to build the deck framing which is -- created from pressure treated lumber and as you see it all sits on these concrete. Peers that are here. And we have a laminated beam it's two pieces of pressure treated lumber with some plywood in the middle and that spans the whole porch. Now at this point the new work that's already been done is that we -- about post. Fastened down to the -- four by four Douglas or. And we have the top of the post also fastened to this newly crafted beam up here which is identical it's also. And got a piece of plywood in the middle love it to give it additional strength. And it goes the whole span of the porch and Larry and I can interrupt you how big is this porch with a measured. 32 feet long approximately. And about six foot nine almost seven feet out from my house that's going to be spectacular. Now you guys I'm interrupting everybody here in the middle of getting started with the joists the ceiling joists yes. Okay and they of course can be just plain two by six is going to be two by six and they're going like yes. So they get fastened right onto us. Ledger board that's already been put on the house. Get spaced sixteen inches on center right exactly Bob OK -- tell -- like and what kind of a -- will you put up over the government provides fixed. Roof rafters go up underneath the windows the body can -- from the bottom of the window yeah and under the sailing we're gonna put of it's great it's gonna have been approved plastering ceiling block will be expanded and that'll look nice and old fashioned."

" What size lumber are using for the rafters. To fight sex that's all you need the real short span right that's right it's only over 66 and happy. On that and what about the pitch that the the roof is -- the shed roof over the porch is a -- a half -- Per twelve inch run. Not -- half every 1212 inches you go horizontally back to the -- you rise four and a half inches so. And what this this slope of this shed roof will will die into this existing rules. Which is six inch per twelve and -- that it pretty complicated if you've got back to a different pitches. That need to be married in a valley let's take a closer look at that in. All right so there still about six or eight more of these rafters to put in between here Larry but let's talk a little bit about this. The situation here we got an old roof and a new roof meeting. You got some unusual cuts on the on the to defect. Well what we have here this this angle cut on the bottom here represents the slope of this existing house roof yeah and as we want to put it there and there's also part of the compound cut that that it's on the level. Which is part of the same cut it it. Blends one slope into another -- yet. In the top cut remains the same as these difficulties. Be new rafters yes OK so that we're ready to relatives and now. First rafter toward creating this valley that's right. Throughout we continue up the valley here with the sixteen inch on center rafters yeah. We'll eventually meet the top here with a -- roof slopes will meet and they all get shorter as you go up that's right."

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Engineered Wood Framing

Framing a house using engineered wood has many advantages. Glue laminated beams are stronger than their conventional solid sawn counterparts. (Laminated veneer lumber comes in smaller dimensions for headers and ridge beams.) Engineered I-joists span greater distances and their stiffness prevents squeaky floors. Oriented strand board sheathing prevents racking and provides good nailer for siding.

Discussing Efficient Framing Materials

Bob outlines the steps involved in framing up the house. Once the first floor joists were in place, the crew started in on the subfloor using ToughPly, a thicker plywood product from Georgia-Pacific. A single layer of ToughPly can be used under hardwood, tile, or carpet, and its quick-fit tongue and groove design saves time fitting the panels together. Next the crew framed the sidewalls with Riverside CDX plywood sheathing harvested from sustainable forests in British Columbia. While only slightly thicker than standard OSB or plywood, it's three times as stiff for a greater load carrying capacity and its favorable weight to strength ratio makes its easier to work with.

Framing with Engineered Wood I-Joists

Bob and Ryley meet up with framing contractor Kevin Parquette of Timberline Building Specialists. Kevin comments on the advantages of working with the 28 ft. long engineered wood All-Joists from Boise Cascade. Designed for high performance and stiffness, All-Joists significantly speed up the framing process. Next Kevin points out the 1 1/8" engineered wood rim board. For fastening Kevin's crew used 12-penny nails covered with a glue which is activated by the speed of the nail coming out of the gun.

Tour of the First Floor Framing

Bob tours the newly opened up first floor of the house and the turns his attention to the little family room addition. The wall has been bumped out a couple of feet and at an angle. Bob flashes back to the construction of the new addition. The carpenters began by framing the deck with pressure-treated 2 x 10s anchored to the existing frame and set on concrete footings in the ground. The framed the walls with conventional 2 x 4s and attaching plywood to stabilize the structure. Then they framed knee walls to supports the windows that will fill in the corner of the addition. The second floor is now supported using LVLs attached to a 6 x 6 clear fir post which transfers the weight of the upper floors to a new footing directly below with the addition is framed around it. The effect when finished is similar to a greenhouse.