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Framing out Wet Wall for Waste Pipes

Bob discusses the "wet" walls in the expansion project. With the addition of a second floor, special attention needs to be paid to load bearing issues in the framing.

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Framing out Wet Wall for Waste Pipes

computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" To wet walk right. Bob that's of the -- all the and Bob I mean current. In the dollar and it's holding up the second walk brand. Which eventually holds up the rule that is very important structural wall it is so but what we've had a door that actually make that Walt Becker in order to. -- the plumber. Put his waste lines in about. Second walkout which directly involved and that's why you quality their wet wall or -- base off the thick wires. What we've done is made it Becker. This of the bearing wall that's of the bill Walton. That -- we just finished building. And -- that waste line here goes up. In over here. And then eventually back over to the shower in the second floor about yes. And on the other side here over here we have the toilet for the same -- and picked up the lavatory. Thank. About over here. On this fight in the war which is the I'm the same wet wall in the in the den area and yet down into the basement for it connects into the main line down down there yeah ordinarily you would've been able to fit this size pipe in a stud wall cavity but because it's structural we have a -- don't want to grow into that. That's why we need to fatten up the wall call a wet walked -- well are you doing almost finished on this I have no one last Jack stud to put -- in any need to bang it in him. A little bit out of place."

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Quieting Loud Pipes

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. If your pipes are whistling, banging or knocking when you turn the water on or off, there are things you can do to quiet them. Water hammer is a common cause of banging pipes. In plumbing where water pressure is high, shutting off the tap can cause the pressure to back up and jolt the pipe, a little like slamming on the brakes in your car. The jolt can be especially violent when a solenoid-controlled appliance like a washer or dishwasher shuts the tap since the shutoff happens instantaneously. Many homes come already equipped with water hammer arresters, which are small air chambers attached above the water line to absorb the pressure of the water as it s shut off. Spiral-shaped water hammer arresters were also used years ago and you may still find them in older homes. Plumbing that s not properly anchored to the framing can rub or bang on whatever is nearby and cause a racket. All this banging and jolting can strain pipes and copper fittings and you can eventually wind up with a leak. It s best to deal with the cause of the noise wherever you have access to the plumbing. Plastic or nylon pipe inserts work well to cushion pipes running through framing members, but they need to be installed when you do the plumbing. For retrofitting, try pipe hangers. These plastic hooks hold the pipe off the framing and have a felt or rubber cushion to absorb any movement and prevent noise. Whistling sounds are also common where a shutoff valve hasn t been opened all the way or where pressure is high. If your water pressure is excessively high, installing a pressure-reducing valve near the water meter will get rid of the noise and lower your water bill. But consult a plumber first to be sure it won t take too much pressure away from any upper story plumbing. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Unfreezing Pipes

When water supply pipes freeze, first restore home heat to the area. Start working on the supply side and leave a faucet open so you can tell when a flow starts. Pour boiling water over cloth wrapped around the pipe, or use a heat gun, heat lamp, or electrical heating tape. Avoid propane torches: their concentrated heat may cause pipes to burst.

Replacing Brass Water Pipes with PEX Tubing

Al Leone of Leone Plumbing replaces the old brass water pipes with PEX tubing in the Melrose basement project. Leone explains that the water hammer will be removed as it is so old it is obsolete. Leone cuts the pipes into sections for easy removal. The brass pipe dates back to when the house was built and is corroded and thin from years of use. The proper length of tubing is pulled and held in place by a bend support. Bob explains that by using PEX tubing, more headroom is created in the basement and the sink and laundry lines can be esily relocated. Kyle Tasse of Viega North America shows Bob the three different types of PEX: Pexcel for plumbing, Pextron for heating, and Fostapex for both plumbing and heating. According to Tasse, the advantage to Pexcel is the connection system that features a sleeve with an eyehole for double checking that the sleeve is securely on the tubing. The fitting holds the sleeve in place so that the lines can be dry fitted and attached later. Bob points out that innovative technology is exciting for do-it-yourselfers, but it is often best to hire a master plumber.

Copper Pipe Joints

First use fine sandpaper to clean the inside of the fitting and the ends of the pipe. Then brush flux onto your fitting. Join the pipes together and use a propane torch to heat the fitting, not the pipe; that pulls the solder into the joint. If the copper turns black, it's too hot. Now, wipe off the excess, and that's all there is to it.