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Insulating the Home

Jim and John Case show Bob how to insulate the cathedral ceiling. To insure airflow and prevent condensation buildup they install channels between each rafter from the eve all the way to the ridge vent. Then they use a dense pack paper backed R-30 fiberglass insulation. This allows for the channel and the insulation to fit between the standard rafters. In the walls they install an R-13 with a plastic vapor barrier instead of the paper backed. Since there is less air movement in the walls, they need to insure no moisture gets in.
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Insulating the Home

  computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" Joining us now is Jim and John Case, two brothers in the insulation business."

" Hi Bob."

" Hi fellas."

" How are you doing today, Bob?"

" How are you? Now, the first thing I wanna talk about is our cathedral ceiling. This is a feature that you find a lot nowadays in contemporary houses."

" Right."

" What's the best way to insulate it? Well Bob, well it depends on the size were after, that the framer uses when his framing the house."

" Yes."

" But in this case, we have 2x10 which basically gives you 9 1/2 inches worth of space and we install this air baffles which allow constant airflow to internal on the roofline which helps to prevent condensation plus the roof last lasts a little bit longer."

" Yeah."

" One of the important things is to make sure that you don't have moisture collecting up there in the ceiling area or in the insulation, right. So this would allow kinda air to flow through here coming in from the eve and then how does it get out to the top?"

" Well you get your first vent right here, Bob."

" Okay."

" As you can see, this is the item of the roofing contractor puts on top."

" That is correct."

" Exactly."

" There is enough of a gap left in the sheathing that all that air just right back out."

" Exactly."

" Now, what is the art factor that we get in the ceiling? "

" Well, we are using an R30. In fact, we are using what they call a high density blanket. It's an 8 1/4 inches thick. We've been recently made the last couple of years, they come out with this. They used to just to have the 9 1/2 inch blanket which you just get about 30 for ceilings. If you come out with this specifically four 2x10 framing, so you can get your full R30 thickness and still allow your airspace along your roofline."

" Now this material has the brown paper or graph paper backing on it as a moisture barrier. You don't need to put an additional Visqueen barrier across that?"

" We use that on the walls, Bob, but on the ceilings we used the graph paste, it's not as tight as a moisture titer and it allows a little bit of air movement, a little bit of breathing where you do already have an airflow and air movement."

" Now what about at the walls, what kind of an art factor do get in there?"

" You've got an R13 going on this, Bob. [unk] code says that you cannot get by with a R11, okay, we like the R13. It gives you a little bit better of insulation product in there. The R11 and the R13 physically have the same 3 1/2 inches in dimension but you get a little bit better, our value would be R13."

" Now fellas, what about comfort installing this, a lot of do it yourself just go crazy, coughing and hacking and scratching on their forearms when they have to handle the fiberglass."

" Well, Steve, as you can see is wearing a face mask, a nose guard, and also goggles."

" Yeah, but he's just got a t-shirt on."

" Right. Steve doing it for quite a while now and he is pretty much built up immunity to a lot of it."

" So it doesn't bothering him."

" Correct."

" Your home owner though, is just someone insulating your attic or walls, whatever. They would probably wanna wear long sleeves and possibly a baseball cap or some kind."

" As well as a particle mask and goggles."

" Correct."

" Right."

" Makes a lot of sense and of course to properly install job, none of us gets out of the sidewalks. It's all compacted in here, right?"

" Right. It is compacted right in there and sealed up, and once you sheath [unk] even shows there is none of us exposed."

" Okay now, in the sidewall, you've used the same fiberglass installation but it doesn't have the brown craft paper on it. Why?"

" Well, on the exterior wall, you don't have any ventilation like you do in the attic, so the moisture titer is polyethylene, it's a little quicker, it seals it up a little bit tighter and keeps any moist from getting into the wall cavity at all."

" And as one continue with sheet,"

" Correct."

" That's putting up there."

" Now, that, this is of extreme importance, right, cause if you do get moisture penetrating into the wall cavities and that installation gets soggy, you're losing it's effectiveness."

" Correct."

" Yeah. Some cases I've seen it freeze up."

" Sure."

" Yup."

" Alright, and then the second sheet goes right up 'cause we've got a nice brick tall wall here, now what mil polyethylene is that? How thick is it?"

" That is a 3 mil poly a full weight 3 mil, which is industry standard, that it's great."

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