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Installing a Cement Backerboard in the Bathroom
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" Let's talk a little bit about this product. Everybody's using it nowadays, this cementitous board. How's it made?"
" Well, what it is --- it's a bed of mortar in between 2 fiberglass meshed sheaths that hold it all together."
" Right."
" I assume it's poured in between these 2 and then it hardens up. It becomes very brittle----"
" And it's rigid."
" yeah and it's rigid."
" Now, what's the advantage of it over just bringing in some cement in a sack and mixing it up and, you know, doing more job in that way?"
" Well, as you can see that these boards, they come in 3 feet X 5 feet sheaths."
" Right."
" And you just go the lumber yard. You buy them. You bring them here."
" Yes."
" And you drill some holes in them and screw them to the floor and or walls, whatever application."
" Is it cheaper than putting in a [unk]?"
" I found it to be much more economical and a better job all the way around because it prevents---- when we eventually glue the tile with a latex mortar mix----"
" [unk]"
" into the floor and walls, it eventually---- it becomes water-proof."
" Resistant, yeah. The question I have is how do you cut it? It's not like cutting drywall."
" Well, I believe Kenny's getting ready to cut a board right now, if you wanna watch him do it. What we use is a handheld carbide chip. Scribing tool and----"
" Aha."
" scouring tool actually Bob. Fairly simply, you just draw a line and cut it as he's doing and then he's gonna snap it and----"
" So it is basically just the same as working with [unk]."
" Like cutting a piece of wallboard."
" Yes."
" I got this one Kenny."
" Does it matter which side faces out?"
" We usually put the rough side out Bob."
" So that you've got a better grip on your---- with your thinset."
" I'll just do it like this."
" Yeah."
" Alright."
" And can't you just nail it in place like with the galvanized roofing there or something?"
" Well, we like to use screws Bob because it's much more rigid application----"
" and nails will eventually loosen up and the tiles will eventually fall off."
" And what we'll do is drill a hole with a masonry bit and then what we'll use Bob are these galvanized screws----"
" They're just drywall screws."
" yeah, they're basically drywall screws, but---- yeah."
" It worked pretty well."
" 2-inch screw?"
" Yeah, I---- these are inch and [unk] Bob."
" Okay and it slowly snug each one of these up. Okay and then it a strip goes in the outside here. Now, you now what's interesting is you're also using this product on the floor, so that's not something I've done before. Why is that?"
" Well, when you're using ceramic tiles and grout, these grout lines will have to fail over the floor if the tile blocks and anytime a grout line fails that means water is gonna get from the surface through the plywood especially in a bathroom, a lot of water splashing around----"
" Sure."
" at all times."
" Yeah."
" And what happens then is it's gonna delaminate that plywood underneath the end of a board and then you have rot and once you've got rot in the plywood especially the laminate you've got movement and motion and that's when the tiles will start popping out."
" Exactly."
" So, this makes for a better job you're saying?"
" Yes, once you've put the thinset mortar on here and adhere the tiles to it eventually have a water-proof surface, so the water cannot penetrate this surface and substrate to get to the plywood. "
" Hey, one last question. I see that you've got this phone stuff and all the holes wherever you got plumbing pipes coming through, do you really need that?"
" Well yeah, the state requires that you prevent any draft or air movement from floor to floor."
" That will----"
" That's your plumbing holes and electric wires and what [unk],"
" And primarily that's to prevent fire, right?"
" It's to prevent air feeding a fire, so if you prevent the air from getting from point A to point B, which is downstairs----"
" Right."
" and upstairs."
" Yeah."
" You've inhibited that fire----"