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Blue Board Plaster Walls
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" In a room like this, which is roughly 12 x 12, what you do first?"
" Well, what we do is we take a measurement of the width of the room----"
" Yeah."
" then we cut our board, and we hold it up to the ceiling and we tack it in."
" But you are working real big boards."
" Right."
" There are 12 footers?"
" Yeah."
" Yeah. I better get out of the way."
" Yeah. We'll both get out of the way here."
" And so, if you're a do-it-yourselfer, and you're all alone, it's a good idea have a 2 x 4 stud handy that holds up 1 end. We call that a deadman. So we don't use any nails whatsoever, huh Bob?"
" None whatsoever."
" We just use drywalls."
" Right."
" Exactly. And what is it about this blue board? Why is this different than regular sheetrock or drywall? "
" It's the paper on it is the different sections to adhere a plaster to."
" Exactly. So it will absorb----"
" It absorb the plaster, right. It will bond to it."
" the plaster on it."
" Right. Yeah."
" So, what happened up here? You missed the strappings? Don't you have to pull that out?-Yeah, what we do is we have a special tool, the tack ball----"
" Oh, that's nice."
" that we'll use."
" So this is something you could use in upholstery as well."
" Yeah, we could, yeah."
" Well, here you go Joey. You might as well get that one out because if you have a loose screw like that, it could eventually pop out after you plaster it."
" Exactly. Right."
" Sure. Okay."
" Okay."
" Why did he tap it like this?"
" Just to push the paper back up so it will flatten."
" Oh, okay. We better get out of his way."
" Okay."
" So this sheet is already marked off at this end for the rest of sliding fixture."
" Oh, that boarding [unk] is a metal. So he had already measured the center point."
" Right."
" He knew where to fix it [unk]----"
" Right."
" so that he can just plunge it right in."
" Right."
" That makes for a very unique cut."
" Nice, unique cut, and then when your plaster is coming right up tight, you don't have any edges that will show when you put your fixture off. Everything is plastered right in tight."
" Everything but the [unk]."
" Yeah."
" Okay, let's talk about the wall texture. Now, why do you always hang the ceiling or it's up before the wallboards?"
" All we do is the wall will hold the ceiling."
" Oh, I see. Sure."
" It will hold the board right up tight to hold the ceiling up."
" If you make that joint up there, you don't have to worry about it ever coming apart."
" Exactly."
" Right. Great. Bob, what's the ceiling height in this room?"
" Approximately 77."
" So the second sheet has to be trimmed down."
" Right. Exactly."
" Normally, they all come in 4-foot width."
" 4-foot width. Right. So we've already trimmed that down. Okay, it's very important to keep these factories edges together here."
" Now why? Why is that important?"
" It's very important is that you have your bevel edges----"
" Yeah."
" And you saw to the center of your wall and you won't have any excess build up on it."
" Uh huh."
" And then we have a special tool here for the bottom. It's a jack that will shut in into the board here that lifts it up before your joint is tightened together."
" So that if you're working alone you can lift the board up----"
" Exactly."
" whatever the requisite is and drive it right into place."
" Right."
" Okay. Well, let's let them fly and then we'll mix the little plaster. "
" This is how we get the texture on the ceiling by just motion with a trowel and a little plaster underneath it."
" Okay. Well, what I wanna talk about is the wall."
" Okay."
" You've already started putting up this tape."
" Right."
" What's the purpose of this stuff?"
" Okay, the purpose of it is to close the joint in so you won't get any crack out of it."
" Uh huh."
" And what we do is we take that tape and we push it right into the angle, the top to the bottom."
" That tape already has some adhesive on it."
" Yeah."
" It will stick right on me to it, yup. It's already got adhesive on it."
" And that is really the most important part of dealing with your joints because that will assure that you don't have cracks along the joint."
" Right. Exactly. And then what we do, after we get the tape on, we flank the joints in, and then we let it set up before we go over the wall."
" Now let's see you flank the joint in."
" Okay. And this fills that joint right in flushed."
" So you don't put it on too heavily though."
" No, no, because you don't want any build up on the wall."
" Alright, so what kind of plaster is this Bob?"
" This is regular old-fashioned plaster, plaster of Paris, with some calcium and [unk] to give it a hardened, so a hard finish."
" I see. And so once again, you start up at the ceiling line----"
" Right"
" and work your way down."
" Right."
" And how thick can you put it on?"
" About a 32nd of an inch."
" Bob, when you start working with this plaster, how much grace period do we have?"
" You got about----"
" How much time?"
" You get about 50 minutes before it really starts to harden on you. You really can't use it."
" Yeah."
" Now what we use is water on it."
" Right on the wall?"
" Right on the wall. You throw water on it and we keep troweling the wall and it smooths it out."
" Yeah."
" Long, fluid, smooth motions."