Home > Video Channel > Work on the Window Casings

Work on the Window Casings

Bob Ryley confers with finish carpenter Dennis DeVore as he cases out a window at the Mt. Pleasant house in South Carolina.
Get Adobe Flash Player to see this content.

Clip Transcript For:

Work on the Window Casings

  computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" I see you've already started in on this point here we have two by six walls so you've got your extension jambs on correct. And I can't help but notice that you are you plugging them land mines that. For structural integrity I always use. Glue and screws and plugging. OK and on the on the audit a class of house of this style hot flat and everybody does -- a different way when they're trimming out windows that's the first time I've seen that. Which you get your extension jambs on what's what's the next thing you went well I what I do is like -- twelve inch long. Pair of the casings that we're going to be using on the house OK now and I go ahead and mark. I three sixteenths reveal. With a combination square yeah. And I will place them. At the proper plane for the pre marked line that I have here -- an actual window stool is gonna go. -- all I have to do is just line this up where I'm gonna want it to go. And I'll tack it on. And what I will do now is I won't get my outside dimension. Measure. And I've got 42. And three quarters OK I want a three quarter inch reveal on the return of the window stool. So of course twice three quarters an inch and a half -- just kind of an inch and half. Okay -- you got to cut to length with your body bags on it. What's your next procedure -- next step was going to be to find the center of the window stool. At the center of the window and I got -- it was 44. And three eighths what's the way right so the senator. Feet 22. And three sixteenths. Got it so we episode will be marking a center line to the center of the window. From the extension jambs and that is sixteen. And three sixteenths. So with the combination square. Screw and we go ahead and mark our center line. And there'll be a mark here OK that we can have a relation to. What that does is that that would that gives us a three quarter inch overhang to get the past our casing past our casing. We are ready -- not so that stool itself will slip in into the notches of the window. And be able to give us. That debt that we need OK when we market and going into. That gives us. Our width cut right now for our depth cut we can go ahead remove the stool okay. And we want to use. This dimension here which is two inches. So and it's. And I thought to such engage. Two inches you like the combination square I do -- hi I'm -- like precision and I and I and it's gotta be that way with what I do. And use that as the guide. And you flip it over. -- And you'll do the same thing here. And then we go and cut them off."

" And we've got this cut we go ahead and help me take these temporary casings -- he's got a clear shot. -- And it should just affix. Or so. -- OK now what's next we we apply the apron and we're just this piece of wood right here already -- a little -- on offense. Take the first -- question."

" Prior to. I've already cut it to the right way with with the same dimension as the outside casing dimension that I've already pre made my mark. For my center lines so this reveal. On the apron and the casing will become perfectly in line OK and so we're ready to attach this."

" I'm a stickler for structural integrity. -- decision. And equality so I always use a wall adhesives. Too attached. Any moldings. That have to be. We don't want it to go away can a good idea. They -- What I'll do is I'll use wood glue on the very top of it. And that will give me a good glue joint between the stool and the --"

" I don't make it good solid. And it's kind of get it in place. And we give it -- good. Glue rub and eyeball our centers right on now. And we're ready to -- and -- because hand me the nail -- certain that it. Storm."

" Really there. -- to -- to it that it's never come loose enough I always clamp my stool and apron together. After I glue it then we go ahead and check for level. Make sure that. In Guam. As roller -- and it's a little bit. And there we are. So now we're ready for the casings."

" and the reason why I put these. Return talk first father's that if there's any discrepancy -- sandpaper and the glue and sandpaper will mix and hide any cracks or joints and make it super cool for the pain I makes good sense and I could see if it apart if I'm -- that this is going to new Jeep to a I'm stool cap that's correct OK so now I obliterated by the time casing -- that's correct. I've already predetermined what our length is gonna be on this and we're ready to nail that in place and can. No don't thank yes. Now we're ready for -- house. Bob I always glue my joints. -- it -- consider my interior trim like fine furniture work. I can see that can benefit from."

" And I used a few nails here. To start out. Line up my miter. -- fair and we'll do the same to the other side. Then I took a long pipe clamp. Attach it about that ships -- in the center out. Of the molding itself. And I happen down the secret that the good. Tight fit on our joints. And painted -- have you Dennis and I regret that. Just work to casing -- pre marked response. It. Those were breads are shooting and I'll shoot a larger fish killed and fifty engaged okay. And it isn't necessary -- used in many adults. It'll hold itself. Because there's plenty of studding behind. And after the glue dries you remove the clamps. You know she's ready to go nice job."

 [-]


More Videos »Related Videos

Picture Framing
Picture Framing

Interior designer Leslie Curtis shows off another of her decorating ideas in the dining room. She's chosen to frame a sample of an historic wallpaper pattern. The frames were created by Ron and Tracy Lindholm from Cape Cod Picture Framing. Bob joins Ron and his daughter Tracy in the garage workshop to learn about the process. The first step is to choose moldings that will allow the creation of a rabbet that will hold the glass and the picture. Ron selected a few examples from a local lumberyard. Next, he combines two of the pieces using wood glue and a few nails. After cutting the moldings, he uses a corner clamp to hold the pieces together at a 45 degree angle. To secure the pieces, Ron applies carpenter's glue and a few nails. Once the frame is assembled, Tracy applies an antique finish. After priming the bare wood, she applies two or three coats of gold spray paint. Next, she mixes a combination of paste wax and pigment, such as Japan paint, to age the newly painted surface. Using a damp brush, she stipples a thin layer of the finish on the frame and then wipes away the excess to create highlights.

Building Wooden Stairs in the Front Hall
Building Wooden Stairs in the Front Hall

Interior carpenter John Kiley is hard at work on the staircase in the front hall. The pre-cut risers have already been hung, and he's measured the rise and the run of the stairs. Kiley hangs the poplar stringers, which have been plowed to receive the treads. Kiley applies a bead of glue to the back, and then screws them in from behind. Once the stringers are attached, the whole staircase is ready to slide into place. Next, the treads are attached. Kiley uses a construction adhesive between the stringers and the bottom of the tread and carpenter's glue along the edge of the stringers. The treads are placed on top and nailed into the riser from above and then screwed with 1-1/4-inch screws from the back. The final step is to insert wedges underneath to insure the staircase remains sturdy.

Wooden Plugs
Wooden Plugs

Here's a technique professional carpenters use to conceal nails or screws: use wooden plugs. Use a dowel bit to drill out the plugs. Dip each plug in carpenter's glue, and tap it into place over the nail or screw. Let the glue dry, then shear the plug off with a wood chisel. Sand the suface smooth and apply your finish.

Building a Medicine Cabinet
Building a Medicine Cabinet

Bob shows the plan for the handcrafted medicine cabinet and Ryley shows Bob the wood that will be used in its construction. Ryley cuts the main pieces with a radial arm saw at one time to make later assembly go faster. He then plows out a rabbit for the top and bottom of the cabinet into the sides using a Dado blade. Ryley employs a router to plow out an area of the sides to make the standards flush with the sides. The standards will allow the interior shelves to be adjustable. Ryley then finishes off the cabinet construction with screws and carpenter�s glue.

More Content »More Content

Building a Miter Box
Building a Miter Box

A miter box is an important tool to help cut perfect…
…Collect and understand the parts. The miter box will consist of three lengths of wood…
…center of the elevated base. With the miter box parts resting in their appropriate positions…

Miter vs Coping

…production work. I would agree for mdf paint finish you could miter & glue then fill... I also wouldn't bother adding a fence…
…production work 25 years ago too.. you want the 45 for more glue area, but more importantly if the joint is off slightly…

Miter Box Saver
Miter Box Saver

If you just bought a manual miter box, a simple modification will extend its useful service life…
…blade will then cut into the false bottom, without damaging the miter box itself. Occasionally move the wood back and forth, or turn…

Miter Support
Miter Support

When you cut longer pieces, miter saws are best used with supports on both sides. One way is to cut in a drop-down section into a bench for the saw. Another…

Browse Topics

Click on a letter to browse content by topic alphabetically.



About  | FAQ  | Contact  | Sitemap  | Privacy Policy  | Terms of Use  | Help

© BobVila.com 2009