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Preparing the Turret Room for the Spa Tub

House eleven of the Elmwood project continues. The floor is prepared to receive the spa tub.

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Chapters from this episode

Installing a Granite Tub Surround, In-Floor Heat, and Fiber Optic Lighting Now Playing

Installing a Granite Tub Surround, In-Floor Heat, and Fiber Optic Lighting

Preparing the Turret Room for the Spa Tub Now Playing

Preparing the Turret Room for the Spa Tub

Final Tour of the Completed Home Gym and Spa Now Playing

Final Tour of the Completed Home Gym and Spa

Retrospective of 11 Historic Restoration Projects in the Elmwood Neighborhood Now Playing

Retrospective of 11 Historic Restoration Projects in the Elmwood Neighborhood

Clip Transcript For:

Preparing the Turret Room for the Spa Tub

computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" Now we're getting started with the insulation. To keep this exercise room cool we're using Owens Corning fiberglass bat insulation in the -- And to boost the 24. We fur it out at a later formula rigid insulation over the bats. Next the boom truck from -- arrives to deliver the drywall for our third floor construction site. Now let's get together -- Bob Ryley for a progress report on the retraining of the turret area."

" the parent that we're putting -- new hot tub and we found us that way out of level. So what we had to do essentially was to create a new current inside the old tyrant in the -- from. Melrose group did that work far as to when he did it was by finding the high spot on the old structure which is right here at the top plate. And it put a ledger in at that point. And just leveled it all the way around for the opposite side. Once they've got that in place the next thing they wanted to do was to get a nice flat ceiling up here that we can attach our drywall to when. Naturally the old Tara was built out of -- combination of two by eights and two by four was so what they had to do was -- down. Whatever was necessary some two by four's here and some others are reasons Mala back on this hip. And I'll take that and actually taper it down until we get all the way up the top. And it would Bob Q and a who really Donna of the working here Faris him right in the middle now putting the -- the face to the top -- that we're gonna. Yes and this is. What where things like what we're doing is foaming up an area so that it's plumbing and everything can go. Through this area. Yes this. These plywood stops will keep Hugo. Area from being filled in with a product that we're going to have to level the tub okay. And so now we're ready to put the the masonry product in here while we're going to do first is put some plywood in the bottom Iraq to make up some of the difference. In the thickness that we have here okay. The product is meant to. Be used from a half inch to an inch and a half okay we've got from one end. Here to two and a half inches -- the other around extremely. We're at a level way out of walls so if we fill in little plywood and we can stay within the parameters of the usage of the product okay. I honestly don't have to relative to a positive -- doing I mean this is it just felt right this is just. You know got a plywood down and other Al Gore is not going to be any more than an inch to an inch and applicable. Which is what the manufacturers recommend. We're gonna put them. Not -- bomb threats we've got to prime this with an acrylic latex bonding agent -- too little help -- the product. OK so is John giving us a hand doing that. Basically the bonding agent. Forms a chemical seal. Between the raw water. And our mix of the C 21 so called. Latex additive. And a powdered cement. And that's the attitude. If John is there a formula that you have that. Yes approximately. One and three quarters gallons of a liquid additive removed. To an eighty pound bag of these so called power. Unlikely that there aren't considered this a smoothie kind of -- and yes. Consistent that would be -- be considered creamy for concrete. So it's -- trowel. And have we find we've got to build up. All the more we just simply add a little bit more power. To stiffen the mix up a can onto a little early with this thought who the adhesive is not the bonding agent isn't dry yet on the plywood -- our manufacturer. And the reps recommend that we have a damp to a wet edge. Sharpest of bonding agent. To our rough wood OK doesn't look like that when -- got this McDougal job no have to mix several troughs that congress product will remain. Workable for somewhere in the neighborhood -- about a half hour to an hour and a half depending -- how stiffly its list. John how are you gonna apply high going to get it into the yeah area on mount a romantic spot -- allow -- To -- right in front right on and and then we will trowel and sweet and now. That's."

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If your home is not protected by impact-resistant windows and doors; or impact resistant shutters or panels; consider building your own temporary emergency panels. Step One: Plan the Project. Count and measure each window and door that has glass including French doors, sliding glass doors as well as skylights. You might also want to include roof and gable end vents or any opening that if damaged would allow wind to enter your home. Measure each opening horizontally inside the exterior trim and vertically from the sill to the bottom of the top trim. Add eight inches to both the height and width to provide a four-inch overlap on all sides. When measuring a window with an extended sill measure from the top of the sill to the top of the window and add four inches instead of eight. Sheets of plywood are generally 4 feet by 8 feet. This will help determine how many sheets to buy. Be sure to purchase plywood that is 5/8 inch or greater, exterior grade (CDX). Step Two: Assemble Your Tools and Hardware. You will need a circular saw, drill and drill bits, hammer and wrench, work gloves and safety goggles for this project. You will also need an assortment of hardware including bolts, wood or masonry anchors, nuts and large washers. A range of bolts may be used because different bolts will be needed for wood frame versus masonry homes. Wood Homes use lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors Masonry Homes use expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors Step Three: Get Started Having someone help you with this project will make things a lot easier. First drill holes in the same diameter as the bolts or screws, 2-inches in from the edges of the plywood at each corner and at 12-inch intervals around the panel. Next hold the plywood firmly in place over the opening to mark where to drill mounting holes. If the window sill is flush to the wall, secure the plywood on all four sides. If the window sill extends out at the bottom, secure the plywood on the top and sides. For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a wood frame house, use 1/4-inch lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors. The lag screws should penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 1 3/4 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch lag screws that penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 2 1/2 inches. For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a masonry house, use 1/4 inch expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors. The expansion bolts should penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch expansion bolts that penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. If a window or door is larger than a sheet of plywood, you will need to join the panels with 2X4 bracing along the entire seam. Attach the 2X4s to the outside of the plywood panel with 10 gauge, 2 inch long galvanized screws (exterior deck screws) spaced every 4 inches. Use the widest side of the 2X4 to run the length of the entire seam. When youre done, mark each panel with the name of the opening so you will quickly know where to install it when a storm is approaching. Store the panels, washers and nuts together in a location away from the elements. Consider waterproofing the panels with paint or a sealant.