Bob points out that Victorian cottages had camp-style exposed framing in the old days and Ryley is attempting to recreate this look with modern attributes. They are using straight grain fir for the framing as it is a higher grade than most framing materials and will hold paint better. Next step is bead board sheeting to look like Victorian paneling. On the outside where in Victorian days builders would have attached the shingles Bob is installing rigid insulation. He puts on two layers perpendicular to cover the seams. Then Ryley and Bob nail a layer of plywood sheathing to the outside.

Walking behind the house, Bob makes a few observations about the design. He points out that the house and old barn were not exactly parallel to each other creating some issues fo the breezeway addition. Th architect chose to build the breezeway parallel with the barn, but as the roof is right onto the house, when you look at the roof overhang right on the corner of the addition it subtly increases in width in one direction. Another interesting feature of the architect's design is a 4 ft. wide and t10 ft. long "gang plank"-like balcony coming out from the second floor masterbath.

In this segment, Bob tours the exterior of the completed farmhouse, pointing out the contemporary green color scheme and breezeway connecting the old barn and the main house. The barn now houses an artist's studio and features refinished wide-plank floors. In front of the house Bob meets homeowner Rikk Larsen, too discuss more exterior features such as the side deck with trellises and the center bay with it's third floor Romeo & Juliet balcony.

Bob meets with Bob Fulmer, Sr. of Harraseeket Restoration, Inc. to see how the gutters are installed on the copper roofed breezeway. The gutters are a single bead half-round copper gutter that attach by circle-type fascia hangers. First Bob, Sr. installs the outlet for the downspout. To cut the hole he punches out a hole in the gutter and, using aviation snips (called clinks), cuts a circle in a spiral till it's large enough. Next he solders the outlet into the bottom of the half-round gutter to achieve a watertight connection. It's important to get it hot enough to melt the solder but to sweat it underneath the lap joint. Once it's sweated underneath, he makes a second pass to build up the layer of solder and then solders a "lock" on the back for extra strength. Then he slips the gutter into the hangers and adds one more soldering joint. The gutter is secured inside the circle-type hanger with a brass clip which allows for contraction, expansion, or movement in the gutter.