Home > Video Channel > Supporting and Repairing Load Bearing Walls

Supporting and Repairing Load Bearing Walls

Charlie and Bob discuss how important it is to determine where the load-bearing walls are when undertaking a major remodel. Charlie points out the doubled-up 18-inch Georgia-Pacific LVL that is now carrying the entire load of the sidewall and the roof. During the installation Charlie found serious termite damage at the bottom of the support post. Since the LVL (or any beam) is only as strong as the posts that support it, Charlie cut out the damaged piece and put a new pressure-treated pad in and then posted it up with 2 x4s to tie it all in and create a solid point of transfer for the load. Using studs Charlie also created some temporary supports for the second floor joist system while he replaced load-bearing walls with a triple LVL and a 4 x 6 post. This basically transfers the load down to the basement to a lally column which will go down onto a concrete pad. The LVLs are 1 3/4-inch by 9 1/4-inch by 11 feet long.
Get Adobe Flash Player to see this content.

Chapters from this episode

Clip Transcript For:

Supporting and Repairing Load Bearing Walls

  computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" Well the lesson to be learned from all of this demolition is that whenever you have a little old nineteenth century house and you want to tear down a lot of walls and make big rooms you really can't do it without bringing in a structural engineering getting an idea of where the load bearing walls are. We've already installed a big new piece of lumber over here we've already taken out some of the original. Framework of the house that the old plumbing stack that was here in the corners also gun but Charlie let's talk about this first LVL that you've put in here. I mean that's a big sucker that's a doubled up one right that's an 18 inch Georgia Pacific LVL. And it is carrying the entire load of the sidewall and the roof silo roof correct and our objective -- to open up all the space across the way right any surprises when you put this one well we had weren't surprised me. -- opening up. This area here we turned around and we found some termite damage to the bottom of this post was. Gonzo right and of course the LVL or any beam is only as good as the posts that are holding. That that transfer does the load of the frame so what have you done here we've cut this out we cut a piece that was damaged ago weighed down. Put a new pad in -- treated pad and then posted it up of all these two reports the title and so that is basically a solid point of transfer for that load. Same thing at the other right. And now you've got a lot of new studs that are temporarily in place right right -- so that we can put in we have a triple LVL -- going in here. In order to get that in we have to remove this to remove this we have to support our floor joists above this is all about the second floor. Joist system and how to temporarily hold it up while you're removing. Other walls right this little wall in here is that the kind of partition that somebody might say oh we can tear that out we had two rooms into one and on the second story the second floor program and stop them as the load of these -- of these floor joists is carried by the swell and once. Once we put up the next LVL will be able to remove partition right. Re gonna get started well and -- right here. Where are -- temporary walls up here. We're bringing in the LVL walls that right up there right here yes and we'll bring no way across to. Just before the Jimmy. And be supported in here about post and then we'll before our ethics spokesman here. So we've got some joists to cut out over in this direction them. So now we're just snapping a chalk line where that cut is going to be. And here more than ever it's important measure twice and just cut once. -- again joists are all trimmed back in the last. We'll -- cut let's try to bring it out right. And let's -- to the dumpster. OK so before we put up. The tripled LVL we've got to put up posted here. Four by six right here. -- who you can refute that you're. OK now the LVLs are actually. Going to be tripled up right that's very -- What size are these Charlie these it's and three quarter by Rihanna right now and want to -- eleven feet long. And now we'll tack them all into place one by one. --"

" OK so here's another example of why nothing is ever standard. In a hundred or 150 year old house this is. A two inch joist hanger but it's too big for the actually undersized. Joists that we've got -- so all of them have been cut down by an inch and a half so they fit properly the -- now. So Charlie next time I'll bring you a better compressor and a palm nailer so you can speed up this operation."

 [-]


More Videos »Related Videos

Wall Construction
Wall Construction

There are three important concepts to remember for wind-resistant wall construction. Walls have to resist the uplift forces caused by the pull of the wind. Walls have to resist the shear forces that try to push the walls over. Walls have to resist the lateral force of the wind that tries to push the walls in and pull them away from the building. For uplift purposes, walls are the intermediate link between the roof and the foundation below. To resist uplift forces walls have to have a continuous load path that can be achieved through the use of metal connectors for wood frame construction or a combination of metal connectors, vertical and horizontal reinforcement, and a bond beam at the top of the wall for concrete masonry construction. Shearing forces Walls are also subjected to shearing forces that act in the direction the wind is blowing. As wind blows on a wall, the walls perpendicular to the wall the wind is blowing on, are subjected to these shearing forces and are called shear walls. Shear walls are inherently subjected to the shearing and sliding forces. Wood frame walls resist these shearing and sliding forces through the action of the wall studs, the wall sheathing (preferably plywood), and a specific nailing pattern. Concrete masonry walls resist these forces through a combination of concrete masonry units, mortar, and grouted and reinforced cells. As a result of the walls resisting the shearing forces and being fixed at the base, the walls are subjected to an overturning force, or the tendency to rotate over. For wood frame construction, this force is resisted through the use of a holdown or tensions tied down. Vertical reinforcement and grouted cells resist the overturning forces in concrete masonry construction. Wind Ready Walls Finally, walls have to be capable of supporting the push and pull from the wind. For wood frame construction, studs have to be sized and spaced accordingly to resist the lateral forces, and have to be securely supported at the top and bottom plates. Concrete masonry resists the lateral forces by using reinforcement in grouted cells.

Painting the Bedroom Walls with Rag Rolling
Painting the Bedroom Walls with Rag Rolling

Bob meets Gary Halzel putting the finishing touches on the master bedroom walls. Gary will be rag rolling the wall. He's putting on a coat of oil-based mixture over a latex finish trying to get a translucent effect. The oil-based mixture is oil-based paint, glaze, and paint thinner.

Applying a Textured Finish to the Drywall Interior Walls
Applying a Textured Finish to the Drywall Interior Walls

Doug Frueh of West Coast Drywall is in the bedroom applying a textured finish to the fiberglass-faced walls. He is using Magnum, a dry mix that is blended with water to the desired consistency then sprayed on the wall with an airless sprayer. The effect is a splattered, built-up texture that is allowed to sit for a couple of minutes before being knocked down with a plastic wedge trowel that evens out the surface but maintains the texture. This technique is fast and low moisture, making it a perfect finish for Florida construction. Frueh says he can complete a house in just a couple of hours.

Identifying a Bearing Wall
Identifying a Bearing Wall

There are two kinds of walls: Bearing walls and non-bearing walls. Knowing which can be critical. You can do anything you like to a non-bearing wall, but if you remove or even cut open a bearing wall, you can literally bring down the house. Check the joists or rafters in your basement or attic; if they run perpendicular to the wall in question, it is almost certainly a bearing wall. If they run parallel, it is not.

Related Products & Services Showrooms

Do It Yourself Spray Foam Insulation
Do It Yourself Spray Foam Insulation

…more comfortable, and less expensive to heat and cool. Ceiling Spray You can do attics, crawlspaces, walls, rim joists, basements, pipe insulation and much more with Foam it Green. The spray foam creates a barrier that blocks outside air…

Cool Your Home with a Whole House Fan
Cool Your Home with a Whole House Fan

…these larger fans sometimes require you to cut your attic joists. Our fans are designed so that when they are not in use, you…
…area. Our fans fit between standard 16" and 24" on center joists, making for easy installation. The fans are available in…

More Content »More Content

sagging floor joists

…have several alternatives : 1) Put a 10 inch LVL beam across the whole house in the middle of…
…2) Tear the whole floor and sister a 2x6 LVL beam next to the other joist. 3) Put a 10 inch LVL beam across the whole house in the middle and…

3" drain pipe across floor joists

…basement, the in-between two floor joists between the first floor and the…
…existing drain and run it across 5 floor joists, making a 3.5 inch hole through…
…joist. We have 12 inch engineered floor joists. Do I need to put in any type…

questions regarding old house floor joists

…this 1920s built house at the end of last year. The floor joists look brittle. Recently i found some cracks on the floor joists ( I am sure they were there for a long time), some…

Floor joists

We purchased a 50 year old cape cod with an unfinished upstairs. The floor joists are 6 inches. Are these sufficient to hold the weight of two bedrooms? The floor joists on the first floor are 8 inches. Why the difference?

Browse Topics

Click on a letter to browse content by topic alphabetically.



About  | FAQ  | Contact  | Sitemap  | Privacy Policy  | Terms of Use  | Help

© BobVila.com 2009