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Framing Exterior Walls for the Center Hall Colonial

Kevin Parquette's crew is making swift work of the framing using traditional practices such as 2-by-4 construction with 1/2 inch CDX plywood sheathing. The partitions are constructed on the ground and then raised into place. Kevin and Bob discuss the steps involved in laying out the individual partitions. First the crew tacks the bottom plate into place temporarily. Next the top plate is pulled out for the back, studs are put into place and nailed, and the sheathing is attached. Finally, the crew stands the wall in place.

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Chapters from this episode

Tour of Winslow Crocker House Now Playing

Tour of Winslow Crocker House

Reviewing the Plans for the Foundation Now Playing

Reviewing the Plans for the Foundation

Review of Colonial-Style Architecture and Exurban Living Now Playing

Review of Colonial-Style Architecture and Exurban Living

Framing Exterior Walls for the Center Hall Colonial Now Playing

Framing Exterior Walls for the Center Hall Colonial

Framing with Engineered Wood I-Joists Now Playing

Framing with Engineered Wood I-Joists

Clip Transcript For:

Framing Exterior Walls for the Center Hall Colonial

computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" Kevin at this rate. -- house going to be framed up in half an hour -- Britain and hopefully it'll be up we should be done about three weeks yeah now. Framing is pretty traditional though you're two by four construction yeah. Plywood sheathing right yes happens TVX. But it. Right we're wants to me. That it. That's it. All right look Kevin let's talk about the steps involved in laying out this partition. You all right but it chalk line here what's that for that's a straight line Bob what'll happen is the two by four will sit here. When we stand the wall up in ends up from the straight line all the way across that's how we keep the house straight and square and these two pieces that we've just set down what is it top and bottom plate. We nail our studs in between really -- are exactly OK let's watch as we get all the studs in place. All right so what is different steps here. First we've -- the bottom plate into place. -- temporarily temporarily yes the top plate will be pulled out to the back. The studs are gonna be put into place and nailed. And the sheathing goes on and we stand the wall up. It ended up. These nails that are holding it in place. We'll help it line up exactly and it goes it's holds it right in place and it helps it from sliding out on us when we pick up the wall that we won't kick out and now it's back. Yeah. It. Okay."

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Engineered Wood Framing

Framing a house using engineered wood has many advantages. Glue laminated beams are stronger than their conventional solid sawn counterparts. (Laminated veneer lumber comes in smaller dimensions for headers and ridge beams.) Engineered I-joists span greater distances and their stiffness prevents squeaky floors. Oriented strand board sheathing prevents racking and provides good nailer for siding.

Discussing Efficient Framing Materials

Bob outlines the steps involved in framing up the house. Once the first floor joists were in place, the crew started in on the subfloor using ToughPly, a thicker plywood product from Georgia-Pacific. A single layer of ToughPly can be used under hardwood, tile, or carpet, and its quick-fit tongue and groove design saves time fitting the panels together. Next the crew framed the sidewalls with Riverside CDX plywood sheathing harvested from sustainable forests in British Columbia. While only slightly thicker than standard OSB or plywood, it's three times as stiff for a greater load carrying capacity and its favorable weight to strength ratio makes its easier to work with.

Framing with Engineered Wood I-Joists

Bob and Ryley meet up with framing contractor Kevin Parquette of Timberline Building Specialists. Kevin comments on the advantages of working with the 28 ft. long engineered wood All-Joists from Boise Cascade. Designed for high performance and stiffness, All-Joists significantly speed up the framing process. Next Kevin points out the 1 1/8" engineered wood rim board. For fastening Kevin's crew used 12-penny nails covered with a glue which is activated by the speed of the nail coming out of the gun.

Tour of the First Floor Framing

Bob tours the newly opened up first floor of the house and the turns his attention to the little family room addition. The wall has been bumped out a couple of feet and at an angle. Bob flashes back to the construction of the new addition. The carpenters began by framing the deck with pressure-treated 2 x 10s anchored to the existing frame and set on concrete footings in the ground. The framed the walls with conventional 2 x 4s and attaching plywood to stabilize the structure. Then they framed knee walls to supports the windows that will fill in the corner of the addition. The second floor is now supported using LVLs attached to a 6 x 6 clear fir post which transfers the weight of the upper floors to a new footing directly below with the addition is framed around it. The effect when finished is similar to a greenhouse.