" Choosing the appropriate roofing material for a colonial style house is -- great important aspect of the job in this case our builder has chosen a CertainTeed landmark. Shingle which really gives the impressed oppression of I shake roof. Because obviously 200 years ago -- would had a wooden shingled roof most likely. In an area like this what they've done here is they've created. What they call this angle the dragon's tooth angle to give the entire roof. More of the look of hand split shake we get started on the main roof just a couple of days ago."

" One of the great features of the center entry colonial is its gabled roof. Simple to frame and simple to maintain. After the side walls and gable ends are up it's time to raise the ridge. Re using laminated veneer lumber for the ridge. This engineered lumber is great because you can -- up in one piece you don't need to attach pieces of dimensional lumber together to form a ridge large enough to span the distance of -- through. Once the gable end walls are up the pitch of the roof is clear ours will have an eight in twelve pitch. After making a template for marking all rafters we lay out twenty foot two by -- on a -- saw horses. Since all dimensional lumber can be expected to have a naturally occurring curve or crown to it. We lay out the lumber so the crowns are all at the top of the rafters to avoid any sags in the roof system. We mark a ridge cut at the top of the rafter at the bottom to mark the bird's mouth with a crows. This part of the cut will fit right on the top plate of the wall. We start nailing the rafters in the middle of the ridge beam in order to keep the ridge nice and straight and stable as we go it. We nail rafters to both sides of the ridge at the center. First we nail the rafter onto the tops -- and then we actually lift the ridge to straighten it before nailing the rafter to it. Oh. Since this is really a long ridge we're gonna nail another set of rafters on either side to make sure it stays straight. That we can go ahead and put the rest of the rafters in place. When nailing the rafters we have to make certain that the first nails are shot into the top plate of the wall itself. We shoot at least two nails into the top plate and then another three or four into the joist. After all rafters are secured. We start nailing on half inch TVX plywood sheathing from Riverside."

" The roofers get started with a layer of ice and water. In the first row of underlayment. "

" This self adhering product will prevent water infiltration from ice buildup in the winter. Next thing nail on the aluminum drip back. They snap a chalk line to mark the first course of shingles. The starter course is -- special single layer shingle that is laid right up to the drip edge. It's important to stagger the joints of the finished shingles of the roofers start by building a diagonal corner here. Beginning in the lower left corner of the roof each course is started with a trimmed shingle. The second course is five and five eighths inches shorter than the first and third course is five and private inches shorter than the second and so on and so forth. Until you see a five course period it. This guide allows the roofer to use full shingles across the rest of each course without having to worry about trimming shingles to stagger the joints. Rolled lead flashing is applied to prevent water infiltration around the dorm rooms in the wings. For safety the roofers are using harnesses attached to the rich. After the row of ice and water shield is covered. Felt paper is stapled to the rest of the roof as underlayment. Once the roofers have shingled all the way to the top. They'll add ridge vents and soffit vents as part of the CertainTeed roofing system to prevent moisture from building up underneath the repeat."