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Techniques for Applying Plaster

The plaster crew is hard at work in the master bedroom, applying a coat of USG Diamond Veneer Plaster. Bob gets a demonstration of the plaster application process, and a few tips on the technique for a nice, neat plaster job. Starting with the walls first, the crew works its way around the room before moving on to the ceiling.

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Hanging Blue Board for a Plaster Coat

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Techniques for Applying Plaster

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Techniques for Applying Plaster

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" We're on the second floor bedroom where majority also known as Michael Harris is having all the fun before we start in interrupting him this is what's being used here. USG diamond veneer plaster which is a mixture. Plaster parents in mind that's the traditional material. And again it's something that requires a fair amount of talent it's not necessarily a do it yourself job. Bob shorty I thought most plasterers liked to do the ceiling first and then the walls. Yeah a lot of guys do you don't with a big truth. Number with a small group we like to do the walls first makes it easier for us just make it easier for you yeah with the cutting -- angles and running an angle to -- there you'll see what I mean a few minutes OK because you do have a lot of angles the enters a lot of angles to work with here so -- okay. So you've already. Put a coat wherever you got a joint yes we ran some nylon next. Over everything over every angle and only radical -- to make sure it's nice and strong okay. From the Mexico and do you have to wait a certain amount of time where to -- we've put the next coat on you should wait a little while that starts setting up and you can go with it you know. You don't want to wait too long either. Yeah I mean the the grace period as the words like an hour yak about an hour and fifteen an hour and 45 all the panel what kind of finish you're doing right right. How much time do you allow for a job like this. It all depends this a pretty big job Nomo 400 boards to solve the 400 boards about three and -- some -- but it turned out well. And take us about seven days me and Scott and his son and three as yet. So as fervently located just go over the screws you don't have to. Do any kind of special patching first no not really it's not like a drywall and all the drywall that mud shrinks a little bit. This much gonna while it's shrinking and while we're going to be working. With really going to be muscling it in you know. So this through the beef aren't just really want to toughen up the tapes because if there's any movement in the house. When it with a -- tomorrow they're making a little stronger right. Now what thickness are you trying to reach here online all the friends at the wall's level and it's you know. And all the -- to -- a quarter inch in most places. I'd say no thinner than that. So after the initial coat we come around. And our angles down. We muscle in the mud bath floor honorable court times this model here. And you know -- are really finish. Nice job security."

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Patching with Plaster

Chris Borovka from US Gypsum joins Bob explain about patching with plaster. The first job entails patching over an existing door opening. They've put some Imperial Gypsum base up to the existing door frame and patched the existing hole with diamond veneer base coat. Next they put pressure sensitive fiber tape, P-Tape, over it and bonded the entire existing surface. The use USG Plaster Bonder Pink as a bonding agent - it rewettens and re-emulsifies - and put the base coat of plaster over that. Where the wall meets the ceiling, they apply pressure-sensitive tape to the existing surface and butt it in while applying the first coat of base coat. The first coat provides a nice even scratch coat. The second coat should be applied while the first coat is still fully wet and serves to take out some the bad dips and dives and the trowel marks from the first coat leaving a nice smooth finish. The next day you they'll put the finish coat over it. Where the insulators drilled holes into the original walls, the plasters put the Plaster Bonder Pink around the inside of the hole and fill it in with the base coat. They've meshed over the top of that for extra security and then bonded over the whole surface. On the blue board, it's a different type of installation. Shreve applies one-coat over the joints to reinforce them and fill in the undulation that's left from the two end tapes from the butt joints. That sets up for about an hour and then it's ready for finish coat.