When it comes to planning for your next household project, choosing the right drill bit can make your job much more efficient. The most common bit is called a twist. These are fine for basic woodworking. However, if the task involves more detailed drilling, using a spade or a brad point will give you cleaner holes with less effort. For even neater, more accurate results, try a forstner. It's a heavy duty, longer lasting bit.

To hang heavy cabinet doors and to conceal the hardware, use mortised European-style hinges. Use a 35 mm drill bit and set your drill press to half inch depths. Place the holes a quarter inch from the door's edge and be careful, when you set the depth, not to drill through the door. Attach the hinge to the mortise, and then attach the door to the cabinet box. When the cabinets are installed, the hinges will be completely invisible.

Bob checks out the Trikeenan hand-made tiles in the bathroom and the plumbing fixtures selected for the remodeled bath. The Moen Waterhill showerhead, handles, and towel ring are all from the Moen ShowHouse Collection. Bob watches as Tim Berky drills into the tile to set the fittings for the towel ring. He stresses the importance of drilling slowly and of having a new carbide drill bit to avoid cracking or damaging the tile.

Richard Wagner of Wagner Cabinetry is in Punta Gorda for the installation of Cardell Maple cabinets. He starts with an overhead box that is marked for placement using a laser level. Since the exterior walls are concrete and the wall studs are steel, Bob asks how they handle installation. Wagner explains that as with wood, it's a matter of finding a stud and tacking with a finish nail before screwing the cabinets in place. Once tacked, the cabinets are checked again for level and screwed together with 2 1/2-inch flathead, square drive, zinc-coated screws with wood master tips that are serrated and cut through wood like a drill bit. With these screws, Wagner can avoid pre-drilling. After the doors are reattached and adjusted for swing, the crew moves to the base cabinet, which is nearly level and needs only be shimmed in the back. It is checked with a laser line at the wall and two feet out before being drilled in and finished with a toe kick. Bob shows the crown molding that is glued and tacked in place at the top of the cabinets for a finished look.

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…upstairs, carpenters Bill and Ryley are relocating a window to make way for the new master bathroom. We get a start-to-finish course in framing the second floor partitions: from plans to layout to measuring, cutting, and assembling.