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Backfilling the Basement Foundation System and Installing the Deck Supports

At the modular home site in the Berkshires in Western Massachusetts Bob meets with Michael Shiels to discuss the backfilling of the Superior Walls basement foundation system. Due to excessive rain, dry sand was trucked in to provide a medium for the drainage of water away from the home�s foundation. Outside the front door a deck is beginning to take shape. Concrete columns for the base of the porch pergola have been poured and anchored four and a half feet into the ground to prevent frost heaves.

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Touring the Master Bedroom in the Modular Home Now Playing

Touring the Master Bedroom in the Modular Home

Discussing the Titanium UDL Roof Underlayment Now Playing

Discussing the Titanium UDL Roof Underlayment

Securing the Modular Walls Now Playing

Securing the Modular Walls

Environmentally Friendly Composite Shake Shingles Now Playing

Environmentally Friendly Composite Shake Shingles

Backfilling the Basement Foundation System and Installing the Deck Supports Now Playing

Backfilling the Basement Foundation System and Installing the Deck Supports

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Cultured Stone® Facade

Clip Transcript For:

Backfilling the Basement Foundation System and Installing the Deck Supports

computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" The back filling -- the main thing that we were waiting for last week we still have the kind of the hole all around the perimeter of the house yes there are a lot of rain last week and we trucked in a lot of sand for the backfill and now we've accomplished or branch. So you didn't just. Push back this kind of the sort that's here has -- lot of clay in the sand so we've what does that we've boy and all the sand and I got good fill beaten. And that's excellent for drainage then you've put in. These supports which are for the good pergola detail that's going on out -- the concrete base for the deck and it's also gonna hold up the a pergola that's gonna. Of the columns resting on top of them right yeah that this. Traditional porch approach was not gonna work here because of the design of the roof overhang so we won't really have a porch roof will have kind of -- A pergola that's correct they can support vines and the like yes. Did you say went down for an have to -- this thing yet if voters for -- are down four feet while. And then open it wasn't one monolithic pour then it was another two pours and has steel enforcing coming out of the bottom four and is called joint and this is another form a half -- concrete. Well that's not overkill. Not -- that we need we needed to get the base that we needed to there's going to be clad with the stone yeah and it's also the kind of climate that. Stuff can -- that's -- go the full distance yes what do we got here. That's the base for our front porch -- pressure treated lumber we use any ground contact or anything that's going to be exposed to the weather and how do you fasten it onto the concrete here. We use lead -- this is drilled into the concrete. And then anchored from the outside. "

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Installing Basement Drainage Solutions and Sump Pumps

Bob reviews two types of water barriers installed in the basement to prevent water intrusion. The water barriers block moisture that comes through the walls and channel it into a perimeter drainage system in the floor. Larry Janesky of Basement Systems reviews the WaterGuard system and explains how the pipes are set to a proper elevation by backfilling with crushed stone. Pitching the pipes makes the water drain into a sump hole where it can be pumped out of the home. Janesky shows Bob the WaterGuard ports that open into the embedded channels for inspection or cleaning, and provide a drainage outlet for the dehumidifier. Janesky then reviews the TripleSafe Sump Pump and how it works to pump collected water out of the home. The system uses three pumps to minimize the risk of flooding by pump failure. The primary pump has a secondary backup pump in case the it fails or becomes overloaded. Both pumps are hardwired into the home's electrical system. Each pump has its own discharge pipes so that the system will not be overloaded by increased demand. A third pump is battery-operated in case of power failure. An alarm sounds when the battery-driven pump kicks in to alert the homeowner so that power can be restored before the battery runs down. IceGuard fittings have been put on the discharge pipes outside so that water will clear the home even if the underground discharge pipes are frozen.

Foundation Inspection

Foundation repairs are expensive; help avoid major problems in the future by doing a regular checkup on your home. Inspect foundation walls for cracks; these can be caused by settling, expanding tree roots, or improper drainage. Inspect and clean out your gutters regularly and be sure that the drains direct water away from the foundation.

Installing Systems to Keep Water Out of the Basement

Larry Janesky of Basement Systems reviews the work being done to cut a drainage trench in the concrete around the perimeter of the basement floor. Water will be channelled through the trench to a sump, where it can be pumped out of the home. The sump hole was dug at the lowest spot in the basement as determined by laser level. CleanSpace is being installed over the walls as a vapor barrier to drain water from the walls to the drainage system. It is possible to install CleanSpace in crawlspaces as well as in basements to prevent water buildup in underground walls and eliminate rot and mildew. Janesky recommends taking these two steps in securing the drainage of a home and to secure against all outside air leaks. The final step is to dehumidify the crawlspace. Janesky points out a corner of the basement where the Thermal Dry Wall System has been installed. This product goes behind finished walls and drains water like CleanSpace but also reflects heat generated in the basement back into the basement. Janesky then shows a portion of the floor where the Water Guard Drainage System has been installed in the drainage trench and secured with cement.

Home Inspections: Buyer Beware

Here's another great tip from BobVila.com. Falling prices are good news if you re house-hunting, but now, more than ever, buyer beware. Most sellers just aren t motivated to do expensive repairs in this market, so problems sometimes get painted over or hidden, and it s up to you to find them. Your best bet is to hire a certified home inspector. If you get a recommendation from your realtor, check references; you want an independent and unbiased opinion. Your inspector should look at the house thoroughly with you and give you a written assessment of the house s condition from top to bottom, including windows, doors, trim, siding, roof and chimneys. It should include an assessment of the building s structure and mention any signs of settling or instability. It should cover the siting of the house on the lot and tell you if there are any drainage issues you should be worried about. And it should give you an idea of the age and safety of all the mechanical systems in the house and whether anything is unsafe or needs to be replaced. The inspector s report gives you leverage to negotiate a lower price, have repairs made before closing or back out if you don t want to deal with serious problems. Depending on where you live, whom you hire and how long the inspection takes, the report will cost you anywhere from $200 to $700, but it can save you thousands. It s definitely money well spent. Find out more at BobVila.com: The ultimate home improvement web site! BobVila.com 2008