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Installing Steel-Stud Framing

Bob joins Connor McKenna of Thorough Construction as he works on installing the new steel-stud framing. McKenna is again using the laser level, this time in vertical position, set five inches off the new wall line. McKenna then checks each stud with a tape measure on which the level line is projected to ensure that each stud is exactly in line. He then attaches a stud fastener to hold the stud in place so that it will not shift or move, which would create valleys in the new drywall.

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Chapters from this episode

Installing Steel-Stud Framing Now Playing

Installing Steel-Stud Framing

Installing the Chimney Liner Now Playing

Installing the Chimney Liner

Leveling the Floor and Installing the Subfloor Now Playing

Leveling the Floor and Installing the Subfloor

Reviewing the Completed Demolition Now Playing

Reviewing the Completed Demolition

Clip Transcript For:

Installing Steel-Stud Framing

computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" All right let's check in with Connor again from thorough construction and you've managed to get the flooring down today you've also got some of the furring or rather this is actually a steel stud wall right that -- the -- brought you. Now twelve foot high ceilings what you have to do to get them straight plumb and sturdy when we use this it is -- Brenda. How he got the laser in the vertical position now -- this in the vertical position for residents fragrances from the afraid inches from back over here yet but Jason then with the law and so when I'm resonance with these syrup on the tip of trumpet of five inches so you don't have about it OK so don't put that back up -- so the laser is projecting right on five. And then use plan to set this against the stiff and so there's nobody. In the war on rights of the whole thing when this finesse is going to be serious they're all gonna be straight plumb and absolute OK go ahead and fasten that one. And then on to the next one. And you -- on. Now that is a very clever way of doing this is otherwise there is always the the possibility of having one of these studs move out just a little bit and eventually when the drywall -- come up to put the the wallboard up here that's how you end up with -- bellies and the like OK good."

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Engineered Wood Framing

Framing a house using engineered wood has many advantages. Glue laminated beams are stronger than their conventional solid sawn counterparts. (Laminated veneer lumber comes in smaller dimensions for headers and ridge beams.) Engineered I-joists span greater distances and their stiffness prevents squeaky floors. Oriented strand board sheathing prevents racking and provides good nailer for siding.

Discussing Efficient Framing Materials

Bob outlines the steps involved in framing up the house. Once the first floor joists were in place, the crew started in on the subfloor using ToughPly, a thicker plywood product from Georgia-Pacific. A single layer of ToughPly can be used under hardwood, tile, or carpet, and its quick-fit tongue and groove design saves time fitting the panels together. Next the crew framed the sidewalls with Riverside CDX plywood sheathing harvested from sustainable forests in British Columbia. While only slightly thicker than standard OSB or plywood, it's three times as stiff for a greater load carrying capacity and its favorable weight to strength ratio makes its easier to work with.

Framing with Engineered Wood I-Joists

Bob and Ryley meet up with framing contractor Kevin Parquette of Timberline Building Specialists. Kevin comments on the advantages of working with the 28 ft. long engineered wood All-Joists from Boise Cascade. Designed for high performance and stiffness, All-Joists significantly speed up the framing process. Next Kevin points out the 1 1/8" engineered wood rim board. For fastening Kevin's crew used 12-penny nails covered with a glue which is activated by the speed of the nail coming out of the gun.

Tour of the First Floor Framing

Bob tours the newly opened up first floor of the house and the turns his attention to the little family room addition. The wall has been bumped out a couple of feet and at an angle. Bob flashes back to the construction of the new addition. The carpenters began by framing the deck with pressure-treated 2 x 10s anchored to the existing frame and set on concrete footings in the ground. The framed the walls with conventional 2 x 4s and attaching plywood to stabilize the structure. Then they framed knee walls to supports the windows that will fill in the corner of the addition. The second floor is now supported using LVLs attached to a 6 x 6 clear fir post which transfers the weight of the upper floors to a new footing directly below with the addition is framed around it. The effect when finished is similar to a greenhouse.