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Installing Fire-Rated Wood Shingles

Bob, Ryley, and roofer Jay Sargent install fire-rated wood shingles. Bob discusses the treatment applied to the wood shingles to render them fire-resistant. An ice and water barrier is applied and a cedar breather added to help the shingles dry more quickly.
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Installing Fire-Rated Wood Shingles

  computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" Now you've used stripped away a portion of the existing roof if there's two rooms there right flat. We have two groups are on us and we figured that that top -- was probably at least twenty years old. -- without a lot of curled and blistered shingles out of there and popped up nails will be a lot of flashing to redo up there as well wrapped up on the sentence the pipes but you always start down here at the edge. And you've got three courses on now a lot of communities. Have a lot of concern about using a wood shingle because of fires."

" Get get these are fire rated single on the roofs now so that they. When the house sit the post catches on fire. These aren't going to go out immediately. And they won't set fire to to to other buildings yeah members land on these are going to smoldering Golan."

" Exactly there's minerals and salts that are applied to the cedar so that -- gas softened and apart actually extinguished as the embers and the united stars that I -- oxygen gets to it. And yet the look of it is just you know British red cedar."

" what we're doing is put down this ice and water Shiels exactly. That this is a back to five so it doesn't stick to itself is that go to Gretel there that the copper apron yeah. Drag this is a relatively new product what's this -- This is kind of -- a breather right in it does exactly what it -- and allowed to -- it to breathe you look at even when it's nailed. Press there's still going to be us space maintained all throughout. The surface of the grouped so that there's a bit of air circulation underneath the fanatical and it's exactly right because of fishing as were putting on here are dry that's right spacing them. And dependent on when it rains they're going to absorb moisture and they'll reach what's called the saturation point. And then -- like sponges up on the roof. That was gonna drip through hit the tape but it comes down in the woods that drain in there Iraq going to be so and -- and don't try to write hot."

" You stainless steel and Hillary nails right. It is not because there's going to be so much moisture in the roof that these are never going to roster rot or. We'll be here as long as the roof and its existing of won't loosen up now you start down -- why do you need this much of an overhang it's almost two inches. Gets by an inch and a half -- that's when the water runs down it's gonna run the entrance into the center of the gutter he can't run back at all at the backside of the gutter may be run into the house okay. Now you've got him. Little bit of a tricky start here because it's not a straight. Gable coming out honest got a layer washes out that it."

" Went up to one shorter courses of shingles. -- like best to make the transition. Because with with a laundry eight inch angle."

" It speeds of big gap exactly -- it is you're putting a short course and put a shorter course and and a layer of paper to cover. Minding the gap and another short course another layer of -- Kate will -- this much space in between all the shingles blood that was looming gap we've about a quarter inch gap in between the shingles because going to be so much water onto these are not protected like sidewalks and -- yeah but no paint they're going to expand or contract."

" We often lead to big gap for the water to run down sizing gathering."

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