A good way to reduce the time you spend searching for tools is to invest in duplicate sets to keep where you need them. For example, if you're always searching for pliers, socket wrench or screwdriver while in the basement, buy extras to keep there. Likewise, other candidates for "on site" tool kits are the kitchen, the garage, and the car.

If your home is not protected by impact-resistant windows and doors; or impact resistant shutters or panels; consider building your own temporary emergency panels. Step One: Plan the Project. Count and measure each window and door that has glass including French doors, sliding glass doors as well as skylights. You might also want to include roof and gable end vents or any opening that if damaged would allow wind to enter your home. Measure each opening horizontally inside the exterior trim and vertically from the sill to the bottom of the top trim. Add eight inches to both the height and width to provide a four-inch overlap on all sides. When measuring a window with an extended sill measure from the top of the sill to the top of the window and add four inches instead of eight. Sheets of plywood are generally 4 feet by 8 feet. This will help determine how many sheets to buy. Be sure to purchase plywood that is 5/8 inch or greater, exterior grade (CDX). Step Two: Assemble Your Tools and Hardware. You will need a circular saw, drill and drill bits, hammer and wrench, work gloves and safety goggles for this project. You will also need an assortment of hardware including bolts, wood or masonry anchors, nuts and large washers. A range of bolts may be used because different bolts will be needed for wood frame versus masonry homes. Wood Homes use lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors Masonry Homes use expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors Step Three: Get Started Having someone help you with this project will make things a lot easier. First drill holes in the same diameter as the bolts or screws, 2-inches in from the edges of the plywood at each corner and at 12-inch intervals around the panel. Next hold the plywood firmly in place over the opening to mark where to drill mounting holes. If the window sill is flush to the wall, secure the plywood on all four sides. If the window sill extends out at the bottom, secure the plywood on the top and sides. For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a wood frame house, use 1/4-inch lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors. The lag screws should penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 1 3/4 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch lag screws that penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 2 1/2 inches. For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a masonry house, use 1/4 inch expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors. The expansion bolts should penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch expansion bolts that penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. If a window or door is larger than a sheet of plywood, you will need to join the panels with 2X4 bracing along the entire seam. Attach the 2X4s to the outside of the plywood panel with 10 gauge, 2 inch long galvanized screws (exterior deck screws) spaced every 4 inches. Use the widest side of the 2X4 to run the length of the entire seam. When youre done, mark each panel with the name of the opening so you will quickly know where to install it when a storm is approaching. Store the panels, washers and nuts together in a location away from the elements. Consider waterproofing the panels with paint or a sealant.

You can save time around the house by having a few basic tools stashed in a kitchen drawer. Here are some of the most popular items: a hammer; screwdrivers, both phillips and flathead; a small tape measure; a utility knife; a torpedo level; pliers and an adjustable wrench; and the ever useful duct tape. Most important don't forget to put everything back when you are finished.

Here's another great tip from BobVila.com. Don t let a drain clog slow you down; it s usually an easy fix. A partial clog can be cleared by cleaning out the drainpipe. Older plumbing can be damaged by using harsh drain chemicals, so opt for a naturally biodegrading drain cleaner or use this homemade solution: pour a half cup of baking soda down the drain, then slowly add a cup of white vinegar. Cover the drain for five minutes, then flush with a gallon of boiling water. Some clogs call for a plunger. The key here is to create a vacuum. If you re working on the kitchen sink, you need to clamp off the dishwasher hose and seal the drain openings in the other sink basins. If it s the bathroom sink or tub, plug the overflow opening with a wet rag. With at least a couple inches of water in the basin, plunge rapidly several times, pulling up sharply at the end to move the clog. You may need to do this several times. If plunging doesn t clear the clog, use an auger. If your drain opening is obstructed, sometimes a coat hanger wire with a small hooked end will bring up the clog. You can also detach the trap under the sink with a plumber s wrench in order to get at the clog or to rescue anything you ve lost down the drain. If you don t see an improvement in drainage after all of that and especially if more than one drain is slow in your house you should consult a plumber since the problem could be caused by blocked or improper venting of the wastewater system. Find out more at BobVila.com: The ultimate home improvement web site! BobVila.com 2008

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