Here's a way to replace damaged ceramic tile. Remove the grout with a grout saw. Crack the tile with a hammer and cold chisel. Remove adhesive with an old chisel or putty knife. Apply latex tile adhesive to the new tiles and press firmly into place. Force grout into the joints removing the excess and avoid contact for 24 hours.

Bob and Howard Brickman, the homeowner, move to the upper floor of the new addition. When completed, the new roof will match the line of the existing home's roof exactly. I-joists will be used for the rafters. The whole deck of the upper floor was put down using Georgia-Pacific DryPly. This plywood product is made of Southern yellow pine, is very strong and functional, and water-repellant. DryPly is designed to stay dry even when exposed to the elements for up to 30 days. It is ideal for use as floor decking because it is strong and stable. It can be used as a single-layer of underlayment for finish flooring, which saves time and materials for the builders. There are no unsupported edges with this tongue-and-groove plywood, so it is completely stable as a subfloor. Bob talks with Richard Brickman, Brickman's son, about working with the DryPly. The wood weighs about 75 pounds per sheet. The Brickmans use the same foam adhesive that was used to affix the exterior furring strips. This Pur-Stick polyurethane foam adhesive is applied wherever plywood meets the structure. This adhesive increases the stiffness of the structure without damaging the integrity of the EPS board. Bob talks with Peter Conlon from Todal Products about the adhesive, which is gun dispensed for a precise application. Pur-Stick does comes out like a shaving cream and chemically grabs the moisture out of the air, causing it to thicken and increase in strength. The foam should be allowed to sit for five to seven minutes before setting the board or trim. The set time can be reduced by spraying the foam with water on which speeds the absorption rate. The Brickmans use the adhesive to attach the DryPly to the framing, allowing the necessary space between panels for expansion and contraction. The Brickmans use hot-dipped, galvanized nails to secure the plywood because they have a rough texture that helps them grip better. The nailing pattern is every six inches along the edges of the board and eight inches along the intermediate joists. The gable end of the roof is clerestory construction with two shed roofs coming together. The vertical line of the gable will be a wall of glass.

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. While many people consider laying tile a do-it-yourself project for money-saving reasons, there are many factors that can make or break the job. Once you ve determined the type of tile you need, think about how it will be installed. The substrate, or what tile is installed on top of, is just as important as the tile itself. A flexing floor or a wall that s uneven can lead to broken tiles and failed grout. Water-resistant backer board, not drywall, should be used under the tile that will get wet. Whether it s backer board, plywood or concrete, the substrate needs to be sound, clean and dimensionally stable. Surfaces need to be level or plumb and true to plane, as the pros say that means no bumps. Any cracks or voids can compromise even the best tile job. The only way to be sure the tile sticks fast is to use a notched trowel to apply adhesive to the substrate. The space between the tiles should be uniform, so use spacers if your tiles don t come on mesh sheets. The larger the tile, the larger the space should be between them. Some do-it-yourselfers will make the mistake of pushing tiles too close together to reduce grout lines. Without enough surface area, grout won t bond well and can fail prematurely, leaving room for leaks and water damage. It s also very important to let the adhesive cure fully. Follow the manufacturer s instructions and stay off the installation the required amount of time before you grout the tile. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Bob and Jim Kogut talk about the custom inlays that are being inserted into the new vinyl flooring. Ed Janecek tapes down a sheet of white vinyl flooring and double cuts the piece through the already installed vinyl according to predetermined chalk lines. By keeping the straight edge over the piece that is going into the floor he avoids cutting into the piece and marring the product. Next he takes the tape off and removes the scraps and then removes the insert that he has cut into the floor. He cuts off some of the backing underneath as well ensuring a flush fit. Then Janecek spreads a latex adhesive product on the square. He sets the square piece in the corner and presses it out from there. Once the piece is in place Janecek uses a roller to flatten any bumps in the adhesive and to make sure the piece is secure. He uses a seam roller to tighten the seam and then a seam sealer with a solvent that fuses the two pieces together.