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Getting Rid of Mold

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Getting Rid of Mold

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. It s certainly not new on the scene, but in this age of tightly built homes, mold is the new public enemy #1 for homeowners. And here s the big news: Bleach won t get rid of it! Molds have evolved over billions of years to thrive anywhere there s water and food. They spread through microscopic airborne spores that are present in the air we breathe. Surprisingly, there s really no such thing as a mold-free environment. All mold spores need to take root are constant moisture and organic material to feed on. Your mold problem could begin with something as small as a leak in your bathroom tile, creating the ideal conditions on the wood framing and paper-faced drywall of your bathroom wall. It s estimated that 40 percent of American homes have a mold problem. We know mold can follow a flood, but it can also happen when interior air is over-humidified or there s not enough ventilation. It can happen behind vinyl wallpaper or any other vapor barrier. And it can happen when a roof leaks or because of a leaky toilet or appliance. While our grandmothers would have washed moldy areas with bleach, we now know that some mold species have evolved to resist bleach on porous surfaces. While it will remove staining temporarily, the mold s roots, or mycilla, remain embedded in anything organic and regrow in as little as 24 hours. Flood victims who have relied on bleach report that in as little as three days their mold problem comes back with a vengeance. Mold remediation has become big business. Faced with tens of thousands of dollars worth of work with toxic chemicals, which may or may not be more harmful than the mold itself, some homeowners have had no choice but to tear down and rebuild or move. It s important to catch mold problems early. If you suspect mold, check the EPA s web site for instructions on removing it. Removing the affected material altogether is usually safest. But if it s an area larger than 10 square feet or there are very young or older folks living in your house, don t try to do it yourself. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com


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Discussing Efficient Framing Materials
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Bob outlines the steps involved in framing up the house. Once the first floor joists were in place, the crew started in on the subfloor using ToughPly, a thicker plywood product from Georgia-Pacific. A single layer of ToughPly can be used under hardwood, tile, or carpet, and its quick-fit tongue and groove design saves time fitting the panels together. Next the crew framed the sidewalls with Riverside CDX plywood sheathing harvested from sustainable forests in British Columbia. While only slightly thicker than standard OSB or plywood, it's three times as stiff for a greater load carrying capacity and its favorable weight to strength ratio makes its easier to work with.

Framing with Engineered Wood I-Joists
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Bob and Ryley meet up with framing contractor Kevin Parquette of Timberline Building Specialists. Kevin comments on the advantages of working with the 28 ft. long engineered wood All-Joists from Boise Cascade. Designed for high performance and stiffness, All-Joists significantly speed up the framing process. Next Kevin points out the 1 1/8" engineered wood rim board. For fastening Kevin's crew used 12-penny nails covered with a glue which is activated by the speed of the nail coming out of the gun.

Tour of the First Floor Framing
Tour of the First Floor Framing

Bob tours the newly opened up first floor of the house and the turns his attention to the little family room addition. The wall has been bumped out a couple of feet and at an angle. Bob flashes back to the construction of the new addition. The carpenters began by framing the deck with pressure-treated 2 x 10s anchored to the existing frame and set on concrete footings in the ground. The framed the walls with conventional 2 x 4s and attaching plywood to stabilize the structure. Then they framed knee walls to supports the windows that will fill in the corner of the addition. The second floor is now supported using LVLs attached to a 6 x 6 clear fir post which transfers the weight of the upper floors to a new footing directly below with the addition is framed around it. The effect when finished is similar to a greenhouse.

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