" You can add character, detail, and historic charm to your home with the addition of beadboard wainscoting and a chair rail. The project is both fun and rewarding. Here's how. Measure the length and the height of the walls you wish to cover. For this room, we're going to be using a height of 36 inches from the floor to the chair rail. Choose a height that's proportionally scaled to the size of the room or a hallway. To cleanly remove the existing molding, first cut the paint along the edge of the molding with the utility knife. This will allow the molding to separate cleanly when pried away without damaging the paint. Drive a putty knife between the molding and the wall and gently pride the molding away from the wall. Shut off the electricity to the wall switches and outlet that will be covered by the beadboard. Remove the cover plates of all the outlets and switches that are going to be within the area to be covered by a beadboard. Even though the circuit breaker for the room has been switched off, it's a safe step to remove the outlet and tape over the connection and then leave it loose so that it can be pulled through the beadboard during the installation. The last step in preparation is to locate the wooden stud behind the wallboard. Once you locate one of the studs with a punch, mark it with a pencil. The next stud will be 16 inches on the center away from the first. As you measure, look for drywall screws or use a punch to confirm each"

" on top of this floor molding. This makes the installation much easier. MDF is a stable building material. It will not shrink or crack, and it comes primed; ready to paint. Moving to the end of the molding, set the power miter at a 45-degree angle, and flipping the molding over, make the cut on the end of the molding that will join to the corner. Dry fit the molding in place and check the fit on both ends. Next, check to see that the molding is leveled. Adjust the height on either end by inserting a wedge until the molding is dead level. Using the common compass and the sharp pencil, set the height of the compass to the excess height of the molding. Note that the molding has already been cut down to provide the 1/4-inch bed upon which the MDF beadboard will rest. Using this distance as an offset, carefully scribe the bottom of the molding "

" facing the wall is slightly higher than the outside line. The idea is to have a smooth beveled edge that exactly follows the scribed line. Starting with the corner of the molding, fit the molding in place, and check to see that the molding is level. This is important because the beadboard and the rail cap rest on top of the molding. Note that the end has not been cut yet. Mark the end of the molding and cut the molding just outside of the line. Later,"

" Holding the molding tightly against the floor, fasten the molding to the wall by shooting 2 finished nails into the molding at each stud location. Using a utility knife, carve the corner edges so they match. Later, you can sand the edge for a perfect fit. Next, laying the 1/4-inch MDF beadboard backside up, measure the beadboard to 32-1/4 inches high for each section of beadboard needed. Divide the section so that the edge of the beadboard will rest over the stud in the wall. The trick to easily and accurately cutting large sheets of material is to make or buy a jig that when clamped down right on the mark guides the blade of the circular saw straight across the material. Clamp the jig firmly in place along the measured line, and resting the saw against the guide, cut the beadboard to size. Always cut with the finished side down, which protects the painted finish from being damaged by the saw. Measure the height for each section you'll need"

" back of the next panel. Set up the guide right along this line, and cutting just to the outside of the line for final fitting later, cut the next panel. Remember, place the finished side down to prevent the finish from being chipped by the saw. Flipping the panel over, transfer the measurement for the location of the 4 corners of the electrical outlet to the panel and draw the outline of the box on the beadboard. Using a 1/2-inch spade bit, drill 1 hole in each of the 2 diagonal corners of the outlet location with the jig saw blade. Then using a jig saw, follow the outline, neatly cutting the rectangular hole to the electrical outlet. Check the fit of the panel and the opening to the outlet. Note that as we did with the molding, the outside edge of the panel was cut to be slightly too wide to allow for a final fitting with a hand plane later. Carefully shave and bevel the outer edge of the panel until it fits perfectly. Finishing the fit"

" Now, screw the outlet back into place and replace the outlet panel. Next, we'll measure for the length of the cap rail, which will be nailed to the top of the length of wainscoting. The cap rail was made up of 1 x 2 inch fir cut down to 3/4 inches x 1-1/2 inches. Here's how to do it. First, rip the stock down to 3/4 inch. All you do is you push it to guide the stock and never use your finger. Next, drop the blade to 3/4 inch to make the top cut and set the fence for a distance of 11/16 from the blade. This takes into account the width of the blade. Make the first cut through the top. Now, reset the blade to 7/8 of an inch to make the other side of the cut and set the fence for 3/8 of an inch, allowing again for 1/8 inch for the blade. Make the second cut along the length of the stock. Using a router with a 3/8-inch round-over bit, round the edge of the cap rail"

" is going to have what is called the return, which is a clean way of ending a length of molding before it reaches the corner or edge of a wall. To make the return, set the miter for a 45-degree cut and trim the end of the cap rail with a 45-degree angle cut. Flip the cap rail over and set another opposite 45-degree cut and cut the end of the stock. Insert the cap rail, and setting the blade for 90 degrees, cut a 3/4-inch long return for the end of the cap rail. Now, dry fit the cap rail for a tight fit checking the return end and the end that will meet the casing. Apply a thin bead of cock to the inside of the chair rail, and then press the chair rail tightly in place, tacking the rail to the beadboard at the end and over the stud. Apply a daub of wood glue to the return and press it into place at the end of the chair rail. Apply a fine bead of cock to the inside edge of the cap rail along the wall and scrape away the excess with a putty knife. You can wipe away any remaining excess cock with a damp rag. In the same manner, continue with the other wall, leveling and scribing the bottom molding for a level base, cutting and fitting the MDF beadboard onto the bed of cock, cutting and fitting the cap rail on a bed of cock, and cocking and finishing the edges in nail hole ready for paint. The result is a richly detailed classic finish that adds character and richness to your home."