" A new tree requires a location with both good soil and good drainage. Pick a spot in your yard where the tree has room to grow. By checking with your nursery, you can select from a number of species that will grow in the location you have in mind. Try to plant trees when it's overcast. Ideally, the best time to plant a tree is just before or while it's raining. We have selected a native Franklinia, which was named after Benjamin Franklin, and has characteristics that will adapt well to this location. We also have tarps, bags of organic mulch, organic fertilizer, a wheelbarrow for mixing, shovels, and a rake. Use your shovel to gauge the width of the hole you'll need to dig for your new tree. Measure for a hole that will be 3 times the width of the root ball. The reason for this is because most of the roots grow sideways out of the cluster. And we need to give them a soft start to build a strong new root system. Next, lay out a plastic tarp to hold the grass and dirt we removed. This will make clean up a snap. Start to lift out the grass, cutting and lifting out clumps of grass and placing them on the tarp. Cut down and lift the entire root system so that the grass will not grow back around the tree. Shake out the topsoil from the roots of the grass as you go. We'll reuse the topsoil when we plant the tree, and you can compost the grass. An easy way to separate the grass from the topsoil is to flop each clump of grass onto the tarp, grass side down. Whack the clump of grass with the backside of a cultivator. This will separate the soil from the grass roots without all the heavy lifting and shaking. Continue to remove all the grass from within the circle. The diameter of the circle will be 3 times the width of the root ball of the new tree. Next, remove any remaining dark topsoil and place it along with the topsoil from the grass into the wheelbarrow. We'll mix this fertile topsoil with a rich compost to surround the new roots of the tree. What won't fit in the wheelbarrow, set aside on a tarp for now. We'll be using it later. Remove the remaining subsoil and place it on another tarp for now. Here's a tip. Buy small tarps and don't overload them. It's easier to lift and move the contents around. Break up any clumps of topsoil and aerate the soil by turning it over. Add compost in a ratio of about 1 part of compost to 3 parts of topsoil and mix thoroughly. The compost provides microorganisms that help the roots to grow. Following the directions on the package, add organic fertilizer typically low in nitrogen if you're planting in the fall so that you don't stimulate the growths of new leaves, and higher if you're planting in the spring to stimulate the growth of new leaves. Your nursery can suggest the right fertilizer for your situation. Mix the fertilizer thoroughly into the soil. To figure out how deep you need to make the hole, use a shovel blade to estimate the depths of the bottom of the root ball to the top of the root crown. The root crown is where the roots meet the trunk of the tree. The depths of the hole should be about 2 to 3 inches deeper than the height from the bottom of the tree's root ball to the root crown. This will allow for adding a few inches of rich soil underneath the roots before we plant the tree. When the tree is properly planted, the level ground surrounding the tree should be just below the tree's root crow. Add the newly made soil to the bottom of the hole, spreading the soil under where the root ball will rest. Measure the depths again to make sure that the root crown will be just above level ground. Gently lay the tree on its side. Grasping the tree by the trunks just above the roots, firmly pull the tree from its container. Inspect the root ball. If the roots encircle the root ball, gently pull the roots apart so that they can easily grow out into the surrounding soil. The root ball of this young tree is in good shape and only needs scoring. Using the blade of a pruning shears or a utility knife, lightly score the root ball at regular intervals. The purpose of scoring the roots is tease out some of the tender young feeder roots, which will spread out and away from the root ball and into the new surrounding soil. Gently lower the tree into the center of the hole, and using a shovel as a guide, look to see if the root crown will fit above the surface of the surrounding area. This hole is a little too deep so we're going to add a little more enriched soil under the root ball to raise the tree. Check gain with the handle of your shovel to see that the root crown will be above level ground. Next, cut free the branches of the tree being careful to gently remove the binding without breaking any of the tender branches. Turn the tree to offer its best side to a prominent position such as your kitchen window. Surround the base of the root ball with the enriched soil. Add any remaining topsoil from the tarp, placing the richest soil nearest the emerging roots. Continue to fill the area surrounding the root ball until the hole is half filled. Saturate the root ball and the new soil with water, and fill the hole to the top of the new soil. Tilt the tree from side to side to release any trapped air in the soil. Continue to add the remainder of the topsoil from the tarp. Spread the soil evenly around the root ball and break it out until soil is level. If you need more soil, you can add organic compost to the subsoil in a 50/50 ratio. This soil will go on top of the enriched top soil to fill the remainder of the hole. Top off the soil until it's level and just below the root crown. Press down the soil around the root ball to create a ring to help guide the water away from the tree trunk and towards the edges of the new roots. Finish filling the hole, leveling the soil around the tree just below the root crown. Now form a dish shape out of the soil, creating a lip around the circumference of the hole. The lip hold water over the roots and prevent erosion. Saturate the dish with water thoroughly soaking the soil and the room ball. Add 2 inches of mulch to the surface of the dish. The mulch helps to keep the soil cooler, lower evaporation, and control weeds. Leave 2 to 3 inches of open area around the root crown to protect the trunk of the tree from rot. With the trees successfully planted, we need to stake the tree to support it until the roots take hold. Drive 3 equally spaced stakes into the soil about 2 to 3 feet from the tree. Locate the first 2 stakes facing the direction of the normally prevailing wind. Set the 3rd stake on the opposing side. Tie 2 twine to the stakes and wrap the twine around the tree with a loose knot, and then return to the stake. Do this for all 3 stakes with each line run to support one of the limbs. A few lengths of twine on a tree this size will provide strong support without risking damaging the bark. Water regularly for the 1st week. If the leaves appear to droop a little, dig down 6 inches and inspect the soil. If the soil is dry, water it again. If the weather is very hot, consider using drip irrigation to keep the soil moist until the tree has overcome the shock of transplant. With regular watering and time, your tree will grow to become a valued addition to your yard."