- View ChannelsFeatured: Finance
- View ShowroomsFeatured: Radiantec - Radiant Solar Heating
How to Repair Broken Tile, Part Two
DIFFICULTY RATING:
View text version of this Step-by-Step
Download for iPod
What materials were used in this video?
Caulk, high-quality silicone
Caulking gunCement board, 1/2-inch
Circular saw blade, wet and dry diamond
Circular sawDrillDust maskHammerHole cutter, carbide grit
LevelNails, 5-penny
PaperPencilRubber gloves
Safety gogglesScrews, 2 1/2-inch cement board
ShimSteel woolT-square, 4-foot drywall
Tape measureClip Transcript For:
How to Repair Broken Tile, Part Two
computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate
" In the 1st segment, we set off to replace just a few broken tiles only to discover serious water damage to the backing wall behind the tiles. We carefully removed all the damaged wallboard and tile, and cleaned up the area. We're now ready to rebuild the wall. The water damage was caused by a leaking packing nut on the hot water valve stem. For years, the valve stem had been spraying a mist of hot water behind the wall, soaking the inside of the wall. Before we continue this project, we replaced the packing nuts and tested the valve until we were assured that the leak was fixed. Our next step in this repair is to measure the height on both sides of the opening. Don't presume that the corners are square. The 2nd measurement you will need is the width of the opening. In this measurement, we have allowed for the new backing and tile to tuck into the corner behind the existing tile that runs down the adjacent wall. Next, measure the location of the bathtub spout as well as the hot and cold water valves and the diverter valve. We are measuring from the top of the opening and from the sides of the opening. Draw a rough diagram of the board you're going to cut noting the location for the center of the holes for the valve stems and the spout. Take the time to double check your measurements. We will be using a 1/2-inch cement board as a backing for the new tiles. Cement board is a rigid, mold-resistant, waterproof base for retiling the tub surround. This is an excellent base for tiling and grouting. Our measurement show that the height of the top of the face of the tile is 1 inch from the face of the stud supporting the wall. The height of the combination of the new 12-inch cement board and the new tile is 3/4 of an inch so we plan to cut 1/4-inch last strips to place between the studs and the cement board as spacers to make up the difference. Using a pen and a 4-foot drywall T square, transfer the outside dimensions of your diagram to a sheet of cement board. Check each measurement twice. Next, transfer the location of the valve stems in the spout from the diagram to the cement board. Carefully mark the exact center point for each valve stem and the tub spout location placed across to mark the intersection of the height and the width measurements. If you have any doubt, go back and check your measurements. In our case, the backing comes down around the edge of the tub so we've traced the pattern of the old tile to match the curve of the tub so that we get an exact fit. Working outside and wearing both a well-fitting dust mask and safety goggles, cut the cement board along the outside of the line using a circular saw and a wet and dry circular diamond saw blade. It's better to cut the cement board a little proud on the outside of the line for a tight fit even if you have to trim it down a little after fitting it in place. Cutting the cement board too small for the opening will only mean you'll have to cut a new board. Cutting the curve for the edge of the tub is achieved by making a series of short, overlapping, parallel cuts running the abrasive blade right up to the edge of the line. Using a carbide grit hole cutter large enough to allow the valve stem in fitting to pass through, place the drill bit over the intersection of the line and cut the holes for each of the valve stems and spout. The trick to cutting a clean hole is to cut halfway through the board on one side and then stop and turn the board over. Using the hole as a guide, cut the hole halfway through the other side until you cut cleanly through the material. Finish the preparation of the cement board like cutting out the rest of the hole. Back in the bathroom, cut away any old caulk. Wearing rubber gloves, scrub the edge of the tub with a steel wool until all traces of old caulk and grout are removed. Lay the cement board against the edge of the tub and check the fit. Mark the areas where you need to make adjustments and trim the cement board with the saw. Here, the edge of the tub has a lip that will require that we trim the cement board to match. The cement board fits the opening perfectly now, but it still needs to be shimmed so that the new tiles will be flushed with the old tiles. We have cut 1/4 inch shims the width and the length of the studs to raise the cement board so that the surface will be flushed. Before we fasten the shims to the studs, we'll check the fit. The fit is perfect, leaving just enough to allow for the thickness of the tile cement. Because of the importance of the joint in the corner, we'll make a separate check for the corner to make sure that the new tiles will tuck under the adjoining tiles. The fit is good. If the shim was too thick, we would sand the shim until the fit was perfect. If the shim was too thin, you can combine shims of different thicknesses until the tile was flushed. Now using a hammer and 5 penny nails, nail each of the shims to the studs. If there are any cross members, they should be shimmed out as well. Any bracing that cement board will rest upon should be shimmed out so that the entire surface is flushed with the surrounding area. The more places that the cement board is fastened, the less the cement board can flex. Flexing would cause the new grout to crack, which would lead to future water problems. Next, mark the location of the center of each stud and cross member so that you can easily line up the screws to fasten the cement board solidly to the stud. With the shims in place, insert the cement board so that it's resting on all of the shims. If you press down anywhere on the cement board, there should be no movement. Using the mark you've made as a reference, draw a line marking the center of each of the studs and cross members. Using 2-1/2-inch cement board screws, drive a screw every 6 inches along the line of studs. Set the screws so that their flushed with the surface of the cement board. Using a caulking gun and a high-quality silicone caulk, neatly fill the space between the cement board and the adjoining wallboard forming a water-tight seal. Allow the caulk to dry thoroughly as recommended by the manufacturer. The cement board backing is now solidly in place. In the 3d segment, we'll continue the project, cutting and laying up the new tiles. In the last segment, we'll grout and caulk the wall for a professional finish."
