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How to Repair Broken Tile, Part Four

Cracked and broken bathroom tiles are easily removed and replaced. There may be water damage to the backing behind the tile, so be prepared for a longer job.

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What materials were used in this video?

Bucket Caulk Caulking gun

Cotton cloth

Grout enhancer

Grout haze remover

Grout sponge

Masking tape Plumber's putty

Rubber grout float

Tile grout, unsanded

Trowel

Wood stirrer

Clip Transcript For:

How to Repair Broken Tile, Part Four

computer-generated transcript - may not be 100% accurate

" In the 1st segment, we set off just to replace a few broken tiles on the wall in the bathroom only to discover some serious water damage to the backing wall. We removed the water-damaged wallboard and cleaned up the area. Then, we measured, cut, and installed a new sheet of cement board. With the new backer installed, we measured, cut, and laid up new tiles. In this final segment, we'll finish the project by grouting and caulking the tiles for a professional finish. Let's get started. To make cleanup easier, mask off the area surrounding the new tiles. We will apply the grout next. You'll need to get everything lined up so that you can smoothly move from 1 step another. Depending on the temperature, you have approximately 30 minutes before the grout hardens so you have to move quickly through the next steps. Following the directions on the container, measure out unsanded tile grout into a bucket, and then, pour in the recommended amount of grout enhancer. Grout enhancers contain acrylic or latex modifiers that allow the grout to bond better. Stir the grout and the enhancer together, getting all the lumps out of the mix. If we were making many batches of grout, we would use an electric drill with a drill powered paint stirrer because like cement, mixing grout takes a lot of effort. Because we only need a small amount for our repair, hand stirring is fine. Keep mixing until the grout is smooth and has the consistency of peanut butter. Using a trowel, place a small amount of grout on a rubber grout float. Starting in the upper corner, hold with grout float at a 60-degree angle, and using a sweeping motion, push the grout with the edge of the float across the tiles and into the joints. The goal is to get as much grout as you can into the joints and leave as little as possible on the surface of the tiles. Moving steadily along, use a trowel to distribute the grout into the corner and then use a float to push the grout into the joint. In the same manner, trial the trowel into the joints around the valve stems and then use the float to press the grout into the joints and smooth the finish. Before the grout has a chance to harden, wipe the tiles slightly at an angle with a grout sponge dampened the water. Rinse the sponge in cool water frequently as you work. The goal is to level and smooth the grout in the joints, and to remove as much growth from grout surface of the tile as is possible. Allow the grout to dry for about 4 hours or as recommended by the manufacturer. As soon as the grout is dry, follow the manufacturer's directions to mix together a small amount of grout haze remover and water. Using a cotton cloth or a shammy, dampen the rag with haze remover, and wipe the wall at an angle to remove the remaining haze from the surface of the tiles. Because this whole project was caused by water leaking in behind the wall, we're going to seal the valve stem openings with plumber's putty. Just knead it into shape and press it into place. Plummer's putty is easily removed for plumbing repairs if they're needed in the future. We're also going to place a bead of plumber's putty behind the valve stem cover to prevent the water from getting behind the cover and into the wall. Plummer's putty can be neatly trimmed by pulling away the excess. Clean up and reinstall the valve stem handles and the bathtub spout. We purchased replacement handles in the new spout so that the plumbing would look as good as the new tiles. Next, using a caulking gun, apply a bead of high-quality caulk to the joint between the bathtub and the new tiles. Steadily squeeze the caulking gun handle, laying out an even bead of caulk. You can smooth the bead of caulk by dipping your finger in water and then running your wet finger lightly along the joint. 2 days later, our project is complete transforming a deceptive broken tile replacement project into a tile repair that will last for decades."

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