Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. If your pipes are whistling, banging or knocking when you turn the water on or off, there are things you can do to quiet them. Water hammer is a common cause of banging pipes. In plumbing where water pressure is high, shutting off the tap can cause the pressure to back up and jolt the pipe, a little like slamming on the brakes in your car. The jolt can be especially violent when a solenoid-controlled appliance like a washer or dishwasher shuts the tap since the shutoff happens instantaneously. Many homes come already equipped with water hammer arresters, which are small air chambers attached above the water line to absorb the pressure of the water as it s shut off. Spiral-shaped water hammer arresters were also used years ago and you may still find them in older homes. Plumbing that s not properly anchored to the framing can rub or bang on whatever is nearby and cause a racket. All this banging and jolting can strain pipes and copper fittings and you can eventually wind up with a leak. It s best to deal with the cause of the noise wherever you have access to the plumbing. Plastic or nylon pipe inserts work well to cushion pipes running through framing members, but they need to be installed when you do the plumbing. For retrofitting, try pipe hangers. These plastic hooks hold the pipe off the framing and have a felt or rubber cushion to absorb any movement and prevent noise. Whistling sounds are also common where a shutoff valve hasn t been opened all the way or where pressure is high. If your water pressure is excessively high, installing a pressure-reducing valve near the water meter will get rid of the noise and lower your water bill. But consult a plumber first to be sure it won t take too much pressure away from any upper story plumbing. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com
When water supply pipes freeze, first restore home heat to the area. Start working on the supply side and leave a faucet open so you can tell when a flow starts. Pour boiling water over cloth wrapped around the pipe, or use a heat gun, heat lamp, or electrical heating tape. Avoid propane torches: their concentrated heat may cause pipes to burst.
First use fine sandpaper to clean the inside of the fitting and the ends of the pipe. Then brush flux onto your fitting. Join the pipes together and use a propane torch to heat the fitting, not the pipe; that pulls the solder into the joint. If the copper turns black, it's too hot. Now, wipe off the excess, and that's all there is to it.
Al Leone of Leone Plumbing replaces the old brass water pipes with PEX tubing in the Melrose basement project. Leone explains that the water hammer will be removed as it is so old it is obsolete. Leone cuts the pipes into sections for easy removal. The brass pipe dates back to when the house was built and is corroded and thin from years of use. The proper length of tubing is pulled and held in place by a bend support. Bob explains that by using PEX tubing, more headroom is created in the basement and the sink and laundry lines can be esily relocated. Kyle Tasse of Viega North America shows Bob the three different types of PEX: Pexcel for plumbing, Pextron for heating, and Fostapex for both plumbing and heating. According to Tasse, the advantage to Pexcel is the connection system that features a sleeve with an eyehole for double checking that the sleeve is securely on the tubing. The fitting holds the sleeve in place so that the lines can be dry fitted and attached later. Bob points out that innovative technology is exciting for do-it-yourselfers, but it is often best to hire a master plumber.
Exposure to temperatures below 20 degrees can cause pipes to freeze and break. A few simple steps can help protect pipes from freezing or defrost them when they do.
Plumber Jack O'Leary shows Bob how to sweat a copper pipe joint. Jack cleans the pipe ends and fittings prior to applying the flux and explainsthe purpose of each step.
Bob reviews how keeping water out of the basement is a central concern in any basement remodeling project. Bob talks with Larry Janesky of Basement Systems about the problem. This home has a gambrel roof and a gutter system with three conductor pipes to carry away the rainwater. Janesky explains that the home was built in 1921 and used clay pipes as downspouts to carry the water away to the street. Over the years, these underground pipes have clogged. The pipes need to be taken up to drain at the ground level where rainwater will not affect the home's foundation. The conductor pipe will be disconnected from the clay pipe and a product called Rain Chute will divert water away from the home. This solution is much simpler than attempting to clean the old clay pipes that are clogged up beyond the side of the house and may have collapsed in upon themselves.
Bob reviews the work done on the existing plumbing once all the waterproofing and flood-prevention measures are put in place in the basement. Al Leone of Leone Plumbing Corp. first cut the pipes into sections for easy removal. The cast iron pipe was cut and removed using a special pipe cutter. Bob explains that Leone is a union contractor who decided to go into business for himself. His helper, Matthew Orlando, is going through the apprentice training program through the Plumber and Gas Fitters Local Union Number 12 in Boston. The chapter spends $4,500 a year to put each apprentice through a thorough five-year training program where they spend two nights per week learning about everything from bathrooms to hospital gas work. Leone demonstrates some of the specialized work he does to install the pipe, including using oakum, a joint runner, and poured hot lead to form a joint seal. Leone then shows how some of the other seals are put in place in the pipe.
