Bob opens the segment with a look at the Certainteed Landmark shingles selected for this project. Fabricated with a dragon's tooth angle, the Landmark shingles give the impression of a handsplit shake roof. Next Bob flashes back to the construction of the roof. Starting with the raising of the laminated veneer lumber (LVL) ridge beam onto the gable ends, Bob walks the viewer through the various steps in the process - laying out 20 foot 2 by 10s for the rafters, marking a ridge cut at the top of each rafter and a crow's foot at the bottom, positioning and securing the rafters to both sides of the ridge starting at the center, applying the CDX plywood sheathing followed by an ice and water barrier as underlayment for the first course of shingles, nailing on the aluminum drip edge, and finally laying out and applying the first course of shingles. Once the first course is finished, felt paper is stapled to the rest of the sheathing as underlayment. After the roofers have finished shingling all the way to the top, they add ridge vents and soffit vents to prevent moisture from building up under the shingles.
Bob and Ryley start by raising an exterior wall on the second floor. Bob and Larry Landers discuss a stiff back support for a tall wall that will be both an interior and exterior wall on the same side depending on the height. They support the wall insuring it is plumb before starting on adjacent walls and rafters. Ryley explains the cutting of a nine twelve roof angle and how to use a framing square to get the angles for the rafters.
Bob helps lay the rafters on the roof of the home. The rafters all follow the same cutting pattern so they can all be laid into place. After two of the guide rafters are in place, a ridge pole is put in. The ridge pole supports the upper end of the rafters and is made of laminated veneer lumber (LVL). After the ridge pole is in place, the rest of the rafters can be laid down. The rafters have a bird mouth cut. Once plywood is laid on the roof's exterior, hurricane clips will be used to secure the roof.
want to add more blown insulation and plan to place those foam baffles between the rafters. My question is...should the baffles be added between every rafter and the existing blown-in pulled out where ever its blown all the way into the soffit
wide open attic spaces. A rafter system, however, must than a one using beams and rafters, allowing the creation open space created by a rafter system is often lost when traditionally left open by rafters. At Home Again s Vermont
feet with a flat slope roof. How do I make rafters this long? Do I double up wood for each rafter to extend it that long? Also, Can I use or do I need larger ones like 2 x 8 for the rafter boards? Thanks for your help! Warren