Bob opens the segment with a look at the Certainteed Landmark shingles selected for this project. Fabricated with a dragon's tooth angle, the Landmark shingles give the impression of a handsplit shake roof. Next Bob flashes back to the construction of the roof. Starting with the raising of the laminated veneer lumber (LVL) ridge beam onto the gable ends, Bob walks the viewer through the various steps in the process - laying out 20 foot 2 by 10s for the rafters, marking a ridge cut at the top of each rafter and a crow's foot at the bottom, positioning and securing the rafters to both sides of the ridge starting at the center, applying the CDX plywood sheathing followed by an ice and water barrier as underlayment for the first course of shingles, nailing on the aluminum drip edge, and finally laying out and applying the first course of shingles. Once the first course is finished, felt paper is stapled to the rest of the sheathing as underlayment. After the roofers have finished shingling all the way to the top, they add ridge vents and soffit vents to prevent moisture from building up under the shingles.

Bob and Ryley start by raising an exterior wall on the second floor. Bob and Larry Landers discuss a stiff back support for a tall wall that will be both an interior and exterior wall on the same side depending on the height. They support the wall insuring it is plumb before starting on adjacent walls and rafters. Ryley explains the cutting of a nine twelve roof angle and how to use a framing square to get the angles for the rafters.

Bob helps lay the rafters on the roof of the home. The rafters all follow the same cutting pattern so they can all be laid into place. After two of the guide rafters are in place, a ridge pole is put in. The ridge pole supports the upper end of the rafters and is made of laminated veneer lumber (LVL). After the ridge pole is in place, the rest of the rafters can be laid down. The rafters have a bird mouth cut. Once plywood is laid on the roof's exterior, hurricane clips will be used to secure the roof.

The architect visits for an update and Bob and Ryley begin installing the Paralam rafters. Ryley discusses the construction and preparation of the high-pressure man-made rafters.

Bob talks with lead framing carpenter Dan Enright as he and his crew work on the shed roof over the kitchen/family room area. What complicates the job is that the shed roof ends at the corner in a hip. This means the hip rafter will determine the lengths of all the different final rafters. Dan explains how using a speed square he can determine his top cut � a four-twelve on a 45-degree angle and his "bird-mouth" cut at the other end of the rafter where it sits on the sill plate of the outside wall. Bob points out that when framing a hip it's important to alternately counter a rafter from one side with one from the other to prevent bowing out the hip rafter. With the rafters in place, it's just a matter of adding OSB sheathing and the roof is on.

Ryley and Bob discuss the special beam being installed which utilizes a fletch plate. The plate is made of steel and is then sandwiched between two pieces of wood for added strength. Bob assists in bolting the plate to the wood and then securing the beam in place. The remaining joists and rafters are then added.

Jim and John Case show Bob how to insulate the cathedral ceiling. To insure airflow and prevent condensation buildup they install channels between each rafter from the eve all the way to the ridge vent. Then they use a dense pack paper backed R-30 fiberglass insulation. This allows for the channel and the insulation to fit between the standard rafters. In the walls they install an R-13 with a plastic vapor barrier instead of the paper backed. Since there is less air movement in the walls, they need to insure no moisture gets in.

Bob meets up with structural engineer Steve Siegel on the Medford's home third floor. The attic is right from the 1880's and clearly no longer meets code. As the homeowner intends to create a home office up there with cathedral ceilings, structural changes will be required. Steve explains that the existing structure is undersized and will need to be reinforced. The 2 x 6 rafters are pretty widely spaced at 2 feet on center with flimsy 2 x 3 collar ties. To create useable living space Steve suggests taking out the existing collars and putting in a ridge beam to support the whole load of the roof. To do this Siegel would put a piece of wood (possibly a 2 x 6) at every rafter pair and then position the ridge beam just below. However, this configuration might conflict with the architect's plan to fill the whole gable end with a big glass triangle.

Bob and Howard Brickman, the homeowner, move to the upper floor of the new addition. When completed, the new roof will match the line of the existing home's roof exactly. I-joists will be used for the rafters. The whole deck of the upper floor was put down using Georgia-Pacific DryPly. This plywood product is made of Southern yellow pine, is very strong and functional, and water-repellant. DryPly is designed to stay dry even when exposed to the elements for up to 30 days. It is ideal for use as floor decking because it is strong and stable. It can be used as a single-layer of underlayment for finish flooring, which saves time and materials for the builders. There are no unsupported edges with this tongue-and-groove plywood, so it is completely stable as a subfloor. Bob talks with Richard Brickman, Brickman's son, about working with the DryPly. The wood weighs about 75 pounds per sheet. The Brickmans use the same foam adhesive that was used to affix the exterior furring strips. This Pur-Stick polyurethane foam adhesive is applied wherever plywood meets the structure. This adhesive increases the stiffness of the structure without damaging the integrity of the EPS board. Bob talks with Peter Conlon from Todal Products about the adhesive, which is gun dispensed for a precise application. Pur-Stick does comes out like a shaving cream and chemically grabs the moisture out of the air, causing it to thicken and increase in strength. The foam should be allowed to sit for five to seven minutes before setting the board or trim. The set time can be reduced by spraying the foam with water on which speeds the absorption rate. The Brickmans use the adhesive to attach the DryPly to the framing, allowing the necessary space between panels for expansion and contraction. The Brickmans use hot-dipped, galvanized nails to secure the plywood because they have a rough texture that helps them grip better. The nailing pattern is every six inches along the edges of the board and eight inches along the intermediate joists. The gable end of the roof is clerestory construction with two shed roofs coming together. The vertical line of the gable will be a wall of glass.

The 5 by 16-foot mudroom addition is framed, weathertight, and ready for a roof. This three-pitch roof will have a standing seam copper roof on top. Berky reviews the framing of a hip roof with Bob. The hips, hip jacks, and common rafters are cut on site using squares and saws with preset angles to create the 3/12 pitch they need. The roof members are nailed in place.