Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Drywall has been the wall finishing material of choice for most of a century because it s so easy to install and finish. Another of its virtues is that when it s damaged, it s easy to repair. For scratches or small dents, a quick swipe of joint compound with a 3- or 4-inch putty knife and a bit of sanding before priming and painting will do fine. For small holes up to 3 inches, self-adhesive plastic mesh tape and then a coat or two of patching compound will work. For medium-sized holes between 4 and 6 inches, try a drywall bandage. Check to make sure there s no electrical wiring in the area first, then use a keyhole saw to cut the hole into a neat square or rectangle. Transfer that shape onto a piece of new drywall, add 2-inch margins and cut out the larger patch piece. Trim off the back and gypsum in the 2-inch margin but leave the face paper uncut. Spread patching compound around the outside edges of the hole and press the bandage into it, feathering the edges. Let it dry. Then sand and re-coat with compound. Finally, sand again, prime and paint. For really big holes, you can use the tie and twist bracing method. Cut a piece of drywall or a length of 2x4 a few inches larger than the hole. Drill two small holes in the center and loop a 2-foot string through it like a button. Tie the ends around the middle of a stick. Apply adhesive to the back edges of the hole inside the wall. Adhere the patch piece and twist the stick from your side of the wall until it holds tight. Then, fill the remaining space with drywall patch pieces and mesh tape. Finish with compound as usual, cutting the string and pulling it out just before it dries. For super-large holes bigger than a foot wide, cut the drywall back to the two nearest studs and expose them halfway. Cut a new panel of drywall to fit and attach it as you normally would with drywall screws, joint compound and tape. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com
edge to make a completely smooth finish. Once it is dry, sand the surface with an 8-inch joint compound knife. Step 4: Apply metal bead sand the outside corner Use a 4-inchfinishknife to spread out joint compound about
side, use a utility knife to cut the paper seam for a level finish Use a 4-inch joint compound knife to apply the joint at all. Using a 4-inch putty knife, cover the tape and make a level finish. Vacuum the dust
When repainting your house, here's a way to restore that smooth original finish. After you've removed all loose paint and sealed the surface with a latex primer, use a water-based, exterior grade wood filler to fill in the rough areas that remain. With a four inch tool, spread an even layer of wood filler and smooth it out. When it's dry, lightly sand it, and apply a second coat the same way if necessary. When the surface is perfectly smooth, apply your finish paint.
compound to the seam using an 4-inch joint finishing knife. Center the wallboard tape over the compound. Then, hold the 4-inchknife at a 45 degree angle over the compound. Step 4: Applying the finish coat For the top finish coat
setting them 1/4inch away from the door until they are 1/4inch away from the frame Using a utility knife, cut away the carpet the pivot out 1/4inch from the door frame header track As a finish step, you can install
obstructions like carpet. The 3/4-inch opening gives more clearance score it with a sharp utility knife. Use a straightedge or a straight mortise it in with a utility knife and chisel the same way you beautifully for an extremely fine finish. Check to make sure the
saw; a utility knife; a cordless drill 2-inch, 3/4-inch, and 1-inch jobs is a 3/4-inch wide, 16-foot power, and can finish more than a few produce a fine finish. Depending upon staples that are 1/4-inch to 9/16-inch