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Start by putting a large sheet of drywall and marking a location to make a cut. Next, snap a chalk line, score the drywall and snap the piece. Repeat this process for the second angle. Finally, trim the back of the angle cut and cut with a utility knife to ensure a snug fit.

If you want to shingle the side of your house, here's a good tip on how to keep each course perfectly straight. First, snap a level chalk line. Then, attach a length of strapping as your guide. Lay a course of shingles on the strapping, making sure the joints are staggered. Leave about 5 inches exposed to the weather and repeat this process from the bottom of your wall to the top.

Bob meets Ryley outside where he is putting sidewall shingles on the new addition. Bob points out the newly trimmed window and the ten inch wide piece of felt around it called a spline. The spline is common in the Northeast to prevent moisture from coming in between the trim and the shingle once shrinkage has occurred. Ryley explains that he is using a red cedar eighteen-inch perfection shingle that is rejoined and rebutted to form a perfectly square shingle. This type of shingle is higher in quality and price than a standard white cedar shingle, but it is better for taking paint and stain. Because Ryley is using an eight-inch exposure on the shingle, he can use a third fewer shingles on the project. He uses a story pole up the corner of the house as a guide for each row of shingles. Bob and Ryley take the strapping off and raise it to the next chalk line to start a new row. The chalk string is moved so that it can hold the shingles in place. Ryley and Bob put the shingles on the strapping and cut the middle ones to size. Then they are nailed in place and the process repeats. Ryley uses five penny galvanized box nails nailed twice into each shingle.

While on the third floor of the Medford house Bob looks at the Pella window installation in the gable end. The architect's original plan called for one big glass triangle but this would have involved a great deal of structural reworking, so the plan changed to installing two smaller triangular windows with 2 x 4s retained in the middle maintaining structural stability. In a flashback to the installation, carpenter Matt Alexander removed the exterior wall covering from the area and used a chalk line to mark the opeing for the new windows. next he cut away the sheathing with a reciprocating saw to create the opening, folded out the nailing flange on the custom Pella windows and nailed the flange to the sheathing. The windows are aluminum-clad, with double glazed argon-filled low-E glass.

Bob and Jim Kogut talk about the custom inlays that are being inserted into the new vinyl flooring. Ed Janecek tapes down a sheet of white vinyl flooring and double cuts the piece through the already installed vinyl according to predetermined chalk lines. By keeping the straight edge over the piece that is going into the floor he avoids cutting into the piece and marring the product. Next he takes the tape off and removes the scraps and then removes the insert that he has cut into the floor. He cuts off some of the backing underneath as well ensuring a flush fit. Then Janecek spreads a latex adhesive product on the square. He sets the square piece in the corner and presses it out from there. Once the piece is in place Janecek uses a roller to flatten any bumps in the adhesive and to make sure the piece is secure. He uses a seam roller to tighten the seam and then a seam sealer with a solvent that fuses the two pieces together.

Bob meets Larry, the tile contractor, who is installing floor tiles in the bathroom. Larry starts out by putting down an under-layment, letting it dry then snapping chalk reference lines to insure the grout line remain parallel to the vanity and shower. Larry gives a tip on where to start tiling a bathroom to lessen the likelihood of tile failure and water damage. Larry�s assistant, Leo, then cuts the tile using a diamond tipped water-cooled, tile saw. Bob comes back to Larry who then nips the tile to the specifications and lays it.

Bob flashed back to the installation of the new roof. First the crew removed the old layers of roofing material from the barn. Next they added a layer of Louisiana Pacific oriented strand board (OSB) over the original sheathing. It's manufactured with thin wafers of wood, resins and wax compressed under intense heat. When used as roof sheathing it's extremely resistant to moisture damage. Then they stapled down a layer of felt paper and marked with chalk lines to lay out the courses of asphalt shingles. Since these are double layer shingles, they're fastened along the pre-marked white line to assure that both layers are attached to the roof. Frames for the Velux VSE skylights were installed. These vented skylights will be operated with a hand-held remote. Copper step flashing is added to the side of the skylights and the asphalt roof shingles are fastened up to it.