…the posts. Using a Forstner bit, drill two 3/4-inch countersink holes into each 4 X 4 post. The Forstner bit cuts a flat-bottomed hole… …the posts. Use a Forstner bit to drill two countersink holes in each post. Step…
…perpendicular to table underside. I need to countersink the brace. Is there a special bit that will do that ? (I hope I made myself… …If there is a proper terms for this kind of countersink work, I'd appreciate knowing. Thanks. …
…clean out the wood debris. Countersink Drills. Specially made bits… …pilot holes for wood screws. Countersink drills have profiles to match… …into the wood. Some countersink drills can be purchased with… …name, this one requires a bit of explanation. The hole…
…re grooved or chamfered a bit. Doors are usually beveled… …hole and a 7/8-inch spade bit to drill out the hole for the… …frame using finishing nails. Countersink the nails after they're driven… …trim screws. The head is a bit larger than a trim nail, but…
Bob shows the construction elements of the new backyard deck in Plymouth, Mass. This deck is made using ipe wood, a unique renewable source wood that Bob uses again in season 14 for a rooftop deck in Brooklyn, New York. Bob then visits Kate Mitchell on Nantucket Island to view a large 26 feet long and over 70 feet wide deck on the island.
…best to have a system for drilling countersink holes, setting the boards with screws… …another. 1. Using a plug-cutting bit, a 3/8-inch diameter hole is… …Then, place a drop of glue in the countersink hole and lightly tap the plug in…
Bob explains that the staircase doesn't meet contemporary codes so structural repair was required. Carpenter Cyrus Beasley of Sweenor Builders shows how a portion of the staircase is completely unsupported and requires a support post. Beasley applies building adhesive to the base of the post to ensure it will not slide or move. Decking screws are drilled in to completely fasten the post to the floor. Plywood is secured to the existing staircase treads to reinforce the structure. The plywood is secured using adhesive glue and decking screws. The treads are then secured to the risers using decking screws. This should add rigidity to the stairs. Bob notes the staircase is now secured and complete with wallboard and trim to marry the old staircase into the new basement system.
The concrete-block retaining wall for the deck and yard transition is complete. The walls curve as they flow into the yard and carry the steps from the deck to the yard and grill station below. Bob meets Tim Berky, the general contractor, who is attaching the western red cedar decking. Berky explains that he started with a solder board of cedar that is mitered to give a clean edge to the deck. The overhang is for the 1-by-12 cedar board that will face the pressure-treated front and sides of the deck. Berky shows Bob the stainless-steel, self-tapping square-head screws that he is using to attach the decking. Berky points out that stainless steel fasteners are recommended for use with cedar. Berky is driving the screws by hand rather than using a nailgun because he feels it gives a better, more solid installation. Berky uses his framing square rather than a 16-penny spike to space the deck boards and create an even reveal. Berky prefers the framing square to mark the spacing because it will not leave an indentation in the soft cedar boards.
