repetitive drilling, like attaching drywallscrews. Use a drill with an adjustable of the wallboard. Drive the drywallscrews every four inches following the Step 5: Sand and finish the drywallscrews Once the compound is dry
Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Drywall has been the wall finishing material of choice for most of a century because it s so easy to install and finish. Another of its virtues is that when it s damaged, it s easy to repair. For scratches or small dents, a quick swipe of joint compound with a 3- or 4-inch putty knife and a bit of sanding before priming and painting will do fine. For small holes up to 3 inches, self-adhesive plastic mesh tape and then a coat or two of patching compound will work. For medium-sized holes between 4 and 6 inches, try a drywall bandage. Check to make sure there s no electrical wiring in the area first, then use a keyhole saw to cut the hole into a neat square or rectangle. Transfer that shape onto a piece of new drywall, add 2-inch margins and cut out the larger patch piece. Trim off the back and gypsum in the 2-inch margin but leave the face paper uncut. Spread patching compound around the outside edges of the hole and press the bandage into it, feathering the edges. Let it dry. Then sand and re-coat with compound. Finally, sand again, prime and paint. For really big holes, you can use the tie and twist bracing method. Cut a piece of drywall or a length of 2x4 a few inches larger than the hole. Drill two small holes in the center and loop a 2-foot string through it like a button. Tie the ends around the middle of a stick. Apply adhesive to the back edges of the hole inside the wall. Adhere the patch piece and twist the stick from your side of the wall until it holds tight. Then, fill the remaining space with drywall patch pieces and mesh tape. Finish with compound as usual, cutting the string and pulling it out just before it dries. For super-large holes bigger than a foot wide, cut the drywall back to the two nearest studs and expose them halfway. Cut a new panel of drywall to fit and attach it as you normally would with drywallscrews, joint compound and tape. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com
Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Although the two words are often used interchangeably, sheetrock is actually a brand name for drywall, which is gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper or, more recently, between two sheets of fiberglass. Any way you say it, drywall makes finishing walls very practical. For large jobs or those with very high ceilings, hire a pro. But most smaller jobs can be tackled by do-it-yourselfers. Before you get started, run the side of a hammer head along the framing to check for uneven surfaces or any protruding staples or nails. The tools you ll need are a straightedge and measuring tape for sizing your pieces, a utility knife for scoring and snapping, and a keyhole saw or rotary tool for cutting holes for outlets and windows. While some pros still attach drywall with nails, most find it easier to use an electric drill and that wonderful multi-purpose fastener, the drywall screw. You ll need about a pound of nails or screws for every 5 sheets of drywall. Metal corner beads go on all outside corners; inside corners get taped along with the joints between panels. Using pre-mixed joint compound is easier and less messy than mixing your own. You want a mix that s not too quick-drying if you re a beginner so you have a grace period to work in. Pros use about 5 gallons of compound for every 100 square feet, but you may need more depending on your level of experience. Installing drywall involves a series of short steps over a 3- to 4-day period. Follow the steps on BobVila.com for taping and finishing joints, and be sure to wear safety gear and a dust mask while sanding. If you re doing a ceiling, get a helper or a drywall lift. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com
Georgia Pacific DensArmor drywall is being used throughout the addition. The face of this drywall is made of fiberglass so there is no danger of hosting any sort of mold growth. Attaching the drywall to a foam-and-concrete structure posed a bit of a challenge. To address this, steel J-beadswere installed horizontally as nailers for the drywallscrews.
To determine how many four by eight drywall panels to buy, divide the square footage you need to cover by thirty-two. You'll need about a half gallon of joint compound and forty feet of drywall tape for every hundred square feet of drywall. To estimate fasteners, figure about three pounds of screws (or about 5 1/4 lbs. of drywall nails) for every thousand square feet.
wallboard Using a drill and drywallscrews, attach the wood to the existing supports to the existing drywall with drywallscrews. Step 6: Transfer the measurements it to the wood supports using drywallscrews spaced four inches apart. Lightly
wallboard to one stud using drywallscrews. Once the first sheet onto the face of the drywall so that you have a guide studs when driving the screws. Snap a line along stud and the face of the drywall for a guide. Step
corner and secure it with metal drywallscrews driven every five inches through the metal bead and drywall, and into the stud behind it bead in place and secure it with drywallscrews Step 5: Cover and sand the