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Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Although the two words are often used interchangeably, sheetrock is actually a brand name for drywall, which is gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper or, more recently, between two sheets of fiberglass. Any way you say it, drywall makes finishing walls very practical. For large jobs or those with very high ceilings, hire a pro. But most smaller jobs can be tackled by do-it-yourselfers. Before you get started, run the side of a hammer head along the framing to check for uneven surfaces or any protruding staples or nails. The tools you ll need are a straightedge and measuring tape for sizing your pieces, a utility knife for scoring and snapping, and a keyhole saw or rotary tool for cutting holes for outlets and windows. While some pros still attach drywall with nails, most find it easier to use an electric drill and that wonderful multi-purpose fastener, the drywall screw. You ll need about a pound of nails or screws for every 5 sheets of drywall. Metal corner beads go on all outside corners; inside corners get taped along with the joints between panels. Using pre-mixed joint compound is easier and less messy than mixing your own. You want a mix that s not too quick-drying if you re a beginner so you have a grace period to work in. Pros use about 5 gallons of compound for every 100 square feet, but you may need more depending on your level of experience. Installing drywall involves a series of short steps over a 3- to 4-day period. Follow the steps on BobVila.com for taping and finishing joints, and be sure to wear safety gear and a dust mask while sanding. If you re doing a ceiling, get a helper or a drywall lift. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Bob visits Fred Goode's Brattle Works workshop to see how the fencing is manufactured. Everything is made from Western Red Cedar. The rough lumber is 1 1/4 by 4 inches. In the first step in trellis production the boards go through the custom designed dado machine. The machine has 11 blades that cut the dados into the board all at once. Next the molder rips the board into three different strips on the full length basis. In the assembly process a bead of water-based, water-proof glue is applied in each of the dados and the strips are spread out on the assembly table where the measurements are already laid out. The cedar comes in with 15 to 20% moisture which prevents warpiture when the fencing is installed and lives out in the weather. Once the dados are put together it is secured with an aluminum fastener around the entire piece which will hold it together while it's cured. Next the stubs are cut off with a 15 foot panel saw. Finally the panel is run through a sander to smooth the top and the bottom. Making the lattice work involves a similar process. The fine pieces for the lattice work are cut on the molder using a cutting head that rips 14 one inch by 5/16s thick strips in one pass. For assembly the horizontal strips are laid down on the table and glue is applied. Next they are assembled by hand at the lattice assembly table using knobs to guide the work. They are fastened using an air gun with stainless steel fastenersaround the perimeter and then in a pattern across the middle.

Fred Goode of Brattle Works joins Bob in the backyard to look at the trellis and lattice fencing that will provide screening and a backdrop for a shrub border. The bottom of the fencing is privacy lattice with a one inch vertical member and a one inch opening. The strips of Western Red Cedar are laid one on top of another. There's no nailing. The strips are fastened with a stainless steel fastener and waterproof glue. The top section is trellis and it's a full dado. The cedar can be stained or allowed to weather naturally in which case it should gray out in six to nine months. There are two installation options. In one a wooden post is actually put right into the ground. This method should offer a 15-year life expectancy in well-drained soil. All cedars have tannin in them, and tannin is a natural inhibitor of mold and bacteria. This gives the wood life. The second installation - the one used in th Medford project - combines the best of both worlds. A steel pipe goes into the ground -- into concrete -- and then the red cedar extends above ground. Fred has dug a hole approximately two feet deep. Water is placed into the hole about half full and then ready mix concrete is poured into the hole and mixed in place. Sometimes an accelerant is added to speed hardening. The trellis panel with full half dados is used for a topper giving the fencing its sturdiness.

Bob joins Connor McKenna of Thorough Construction as he works on installing the new steel-stud framing. McKenna is again using the laser level, this time in vertical position, set five inches off the new wall line. McKenna then checks each stud with a tape measure on which the level line is projected to ensure that each stud is exactly in line. He then attaches a stud fastener to hold the stud in place so that it will not shift or move, which would create valleys in the new drywall.

Bart Cox of Hanson Roof Tile and Dave Peck of D. Peck Roofing explain the roof covering system to Bob as they tour the Punta Gorda storm-ready site. Cox explains how Hanson Roof Tile has improved their design and now manufactures extruded cement barrel tiles at four plants in Florida. The tiles are made of cement, sand, and pigment, and are extruded, cut, and pre-drilled for fasteners at the factory. Cox explains that tiles were once laid directly on top of the roof paper with no fastener or adhesive. In Florida, high winds later forced roofers to apply cement adhesive to the tiles. When fabrication shifted to a less-permeable cement product, the tiles no longer adhered to the cement. Now they are mechanically fastened into the roof decking through the pre-drilled holes. Dave Peck, who has been roofing for the past 15 years, explains a system that has evolved over the years in response to hurricanes, water, and wind damage. Their crews now mechanically attach the 30 pound felt paper, then hot mop each course of 90 pound roll roofing with asphalt and nail it in place along the upper edge of each course. At the final point of susceptibility, the hip or ridge line, the roofers now use a metal hip and ridge nailer board. The cap tiles are nailed to the board with additional foam adhesive underneath to keep them in place. Experience has taught the roofers that hip and ridge tiles must be firmly affixed to prevent blow-off and damge to field tiles and other property.

Bob is with Rich Melo of Newton Roofing Company for the installation of the copper roof on the Rowley addition. The 16-ounce copper panel is prefabricated with a standing seam. The cleat, or fastener, is integral to the panel and is called a Dutch seam by the manufacturer. The copper is applied on top of two layers of underlayment. There is an ice and water barrier directly on top of the decking and a slip sheet or rosin paper on top to facilitate the installation of the copper panels. Stainless steel clips are screwed into the deck every one to two feet on center, then the panels slide into clips to lock down tight. The three hips on the eave points are specially manufactured by Atas to lock into the main roof panels. The only bending done on site is for the hook at the drip edge. The metal will age over the next two to ten years, first turning a brownish bronze color, then to a green patina that will last for the lifetime of the roof. The Dutch cleat system has a crimped edge and a receiver on each panel for an interlocking design. The total cost for this small roof is between $2,500 and $3,500, depending on the copper system selected. A copper roof is inherently beautiful and durable. This roof carries a 50 year warranty, but is likely to last up to 100 years on this home.

Closets and storage areas with piles of stacked-up belongings can be quickly transformed into neat, clean storage spaces using easy-to-install closet organizer systems.