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The PEX tubing is set in the concrete and will circulate hot water used to heat the addition. Jason McKinnon of Viega North America reviews the features of PEX tubing. PEX is electronically cross-linked polyethylene tubing that is made to be stronger and resistant to high temperatures and pressures. The PEX tubing was placed in the concrete slab. The concrete acts a low-temperature radiator for the tubing. High temperature water will be pumped through the coils and heat will dissipate into the slab. A heated slab acts as a radiant heat source for the home. Tim Cutler of TJ's Plumbing & Heating reviews how the tubing was placed within the slab. In a radiant-heat application, the tubing is evenly spread out across the floor. With radiant heat, the air is not heated, only the floor. The heat is modulated according to outside weather conditions so a precise amount of heat is sent through the coils to warm the building's interior to the desired temperature. A heat/loss analysis done on the home indicates that the tubing should have nine-inch spacing for five circuits. During manufacturing, the tubing has 10,000 volts sent through it which cause the molecules to cross-link. This makes the tubing virtually indestructible. An oxygen barrier is sprayed on it to protect the boiler and the heating system from oxygen infiltration, which causes cast iron boilers to deteriorate. A foam stapler pushes plastic clips with prongs into the foam decking to secure the tubing in place.

Ryley takes a look at how the mantel from the ballroom is being restored and visits with Greg at Tidewater Restoration's shop to see how he removes the old paint.

John Livermore joins Bob to explain the Energy Star Homes program started in the 1970s by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. The red blower door is in place to do the blower door test required for certification as an Energy Star Home. Certified homes must be at least 30 percent more efficient than the model energy efficiency code. Once certified, homeowners and builders are eligible for rebates and services from a consortium of utilities and energy service providers. Livermore reviews key areas of energy-efficient building with Bob, including air sealing. He repeats the builders' motto, "build tight and ventilate right," when discussing the importance of a tightly sealed home with proper air exchange. Livermore shows Bob a light expansion foam that can be used with a foam gun to seal against air leaks around doors and windows and the Panasonic Whisper Light fans that bring air changes to the home at a controlled ventilation rate. Another energy saver is the programmable thermostat that allows homeowners to schedule heat for waking hours of occupancy. Compact fluorescent lights are also used throughout the home because they use 70 percent less energy, have a lower heat output and last longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.

This home will be about 50 percent more energy efficient than a typical Florida home. Bill Zoeller, a consulting architect with Mercedes, has changed specifications and products to make this home as efficient as possible. First, there are low-e insulated windows that will block about 70 percent of solar heat gain. The solid concrete walls are insulated with one inch of polyisocyanurate insulation board that is applied directly to the concrete walls. This insulation, which has the highest R-rating of any insulation on the market, will block the heat buildup during the day from reaching inside the home. In addition to Energy Star-rated appliances, the air conditioning ducts have been dropped to the attic floor and surrounded with insulation to reduce the efficiency challenge presented by running ducts through hot, Florida attic space. This technique was developed in California and is now part of their energy code. Dropping the ducts, wrapping them in insulating foam, and covering them in a polyurethane insulating foam improves efficiency and blocks condensation buildup in this humid climate. Lance Keeling, of BioBased Systems, explains that this foam insulation is soy-based but converted through chemical reaction to become completely inert to eliminate organic matter that could promote mold or mildew growth. This chemical is pressurized and sprayed with a hose to form a foam that sets up in moments. This foam provides a 4.8 R-value per inch but with a desired value of 6 from this part of the insulation, must be sprayed at a 1 1/2-inch thickness. This completely encloses the ducts to prevent any air loss and resulting moisture buildup. If a homeowner were to attempt covering ducts with commercial insulation, potential moisture buildup could be produced causing mold and moisture growth. The key with this technique is that it completely seals the ducts to prevent air loss and resulting moisture buildup. Zoeller and Keeling predict a savings of $100 per month in operating expenses due to the energy-efficient measures employed. Zoeller shows Bob the 14 SEER (seasonal energy efficiency ratio) heat pump air conditioning unit installed to cool the house. It is about 40 percent higher in efficiency than a traditional air conditioning unit. While initially more expensive, a smaller unit can be installed due to the high-efiiciency of the overall home.

This NCFI polyurethane spray-on insulation sets up as a rigid product. It will be sprayed in to about 3 1/2 inches in depth and will provide an insulation value of R21. It is sprayed directly onto the back of the sheathing and sticks to it, swelling to 25 times its liquid volume. The foam itself is filled with microscopic bubbles. Since air molecules transport heat energy rapidly from the warm wall to the cold wall, the goal is to stop them or impede their movement with a web of cells inside the insulation. This insulation is also enhanced with Enovate, a Honeywell chemical that is added to the spray to create a new, slower, larger molecule that moves inefficiently to pick up and transfer heat. Heat transfer is therefore retarded in two ways, making for an extremely high insulation value. The foam comes as a two-part product, delivered as a liquid from two drums that mix the components through a sprayer. The liquid is sprayed at a very high pressure, about 2,000 pounds per square inch, to mix the chemical with the hardener and deliver it to the building cavity.

Tim Berky is creating new frieze board to match the existing frieze board and molding on the 1890 Rowley Victorian. Berky is building an 1 1/2-inch frieze board to build out the surface of the new addition to the appropriate depth. Berky is creating custom detailing by gluing two boards together and facing the ends with a filler piece that covers the end grain and provides a smooth corner face. Berky uses Bavarian timber wood, an engineered product with no finger joints. The strength is built in because the wood direction varies from piece to piece. Berky hand nails the end, then shoots the backerboard in place with a nail gun. The frieze board brings the appropriate thickness to the face above the clapboards. Finally a bed molding is applied to transition the clapboard face from the vertical frieze board to the horizontal planchard that follows the roofline.